Driveshaft source

[Moms68]

I had my last drive shaft built at: http://drdrivelineinc.com/
It was almost too pretty to use.
Mike

I couldn't get your link to work.

 

[Dan64]

Yes, you will need a 1350 yoke on the rear also, don't use one of those "Bastard" style u joints that have two different sizes like 1310x1350 or whatever. They will vibrate , only really good for a front driveshaft on a 4x4 to get it going until it can be done correctly.

 

[TN Mopar]

Did you need to change the yoke on the differential for the 1350 joints? Sorry if this is a stupid question.

Yes I did it because my yoke was damaged when the drive shaft twisted
it didn't make sense to back to the small U-Joint

There are three choices
1) stay with the factory size
2) Use the special U-joint with both size ends
3) Change the yokes (best choice)

When changing the U-Joints, The solid joints are much stronger
The Twisted drive shaft was a result of U-Joint failure from the zerk fitting ripping through the grease channel
I went larger and solid
The drawback being to do maintenance, the u-joint end caps have to be removed and manually greased

 

[TrackPack]

Did you need to change the yoke on the differential for the 1350 joints? Sorry if this is a stupid question.

Yes, used a yoke from Strange.

 

[493 Mike]

I couldn't get your link to work.

I just clicked on the link and the address and phone came up?
Mike

 

[ynst]

Aluminum Driveshafts, Yoke, Universal Joint, Composite Driveshaft, Center Support Bearings - Inland Empire Driveline Service

Inland Empire Driveline

 

[Krooser]

I do my own... I always thought there was some kind of mojo about doing one then I had a local racer shorten one for me in his home shop... perfect.

After I bought my first mig welder around '79 I started doing my own. Sometimes I had my friend shorten an existing shaft in his lathe then I'd weld the rear yoke back on... now I use a tubing cutter for a nice job. Clean up the old tubing from that yoke, mark and move the weight if needed and weld her up.

I have several prospects from scrapped Mopars in the corner or my shop as candidates for my Coronet shaft.

 

[Moms68]

I do my own... I always thought there was some kind of mojo about doing one then I had a local racer shorten one for me in his home shop... perfect.

After I bought my first mig welder around '79 I started doing my own. Sometimes I had my friend shorten an existing shaft in his lathe then I'd weld the rear yoke back on... now I use a tubing cutter for a nice job. Clean up the old tubing from that yoke, mark and move the weight if needed and weld her up.

I have several prospects from scrapped Mopars in the corner or my shop as candidates for my Coronet shaft.

How do you balance it?

 

[Bird 426]

#23. Got into somewhat of an argument on another site about drilled/greaseable u-joints. Millions of them out there, they are fine. Yes, depending on the application. I twisted one off years ago and as a result, will not use them if I can go solid. First thing that I did with my Dart, get rid of that combo u-joint thing. New driveshaft and the large solid joints.

 

[Vertex_Jeff]

I had a driveshaft made via Dr. Diff. He uses Strange to manufacture them. Cass (Dr. Diff) makes it easy.
Strange Engineering Driveshaft

 

[TN Mopar]

#23. Got into somewhat of an argument on another site about drilled/greaseable u-joints. Millions of them out there, they are fine. Yes, depending on the application. I twisted one off years ago and as a result, will not use them if I can go solid. First thing that I did with my Dart, get rid of that combo u-joint thing. New driveshaft and the large solid joints.

The Twisted drive shaft pictured earlier in the thread is a result of a U-Joint failure ripping through the grease channel
I won't use them again. They cost me a sizable amount of money

Not the best picture
I had to blow it up from another picture but its obvious to see the failure

 

[Bird 426]

Half shaft for me on a '67 Vette, I didn't know. Probably not as expensive as it could have been. Lost the street race, but no one was hurt!

 

[Dean Prevolos]

I went with Strange Engineering through Dr. Diff
Upgrade both yokes to the larger U-Joints too
It was priced reasonable and arrived pretty fast

I won't trust a 50 some year old shaft again
I've posted this before but it's applicable again

View attachment 1960301

I ordered mine thorugh Dr Diff, which came from Strange. Fit and finish was awesome.

 

[moparx]

I ordered mine thorugh Dr Diff, which came from Strange. Fit and finish was awesome.

i replaced the original shaft with the round counter weight/damper that was on my charger with a 3 1/2" tube, forged yolk, 1350 solid joints from Action Machine.
the vibration present at 85mph+ since i have owned this car from 1970, disappeared.
very happy with the shaft i purchased !

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Good idea to put a sling under the forward end of the drive shaft. Hot Rod magazine said so back in the sixties. The Tukvan has a sling. So did my 37 Ford hearse. A four inch tube looks a lot more sturdy than a 2 inch pretzel. The big block guys will have something substantial.

 

[Sinitro]

I had my driveshaft built by Wenco Industries.
They were the best guys in SoCal located in Northridge, CA next to Van Nuys Airiport...
But sadily..
They closed down a few years ago they were originally referred to me by Dick Landy.

Just my $0.02...