Dropping the crank question

2blader

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So doing a rope rear main seal in my Hemi in the car….yea I know. . So I decided to drop the crank shaft a td to help that situation. The rear main cap is out. The others are loosened and caps are down an 1/8 or so. Yep the side bolts are out too. Crank has not dropped. Am I missing something stupid says the stupid Chevy guy? Is the timing cover preventing the cranks from dipping down a tad? Just need a tad more space for the seal to go in. Any guidance is always appreciate. Scott
 
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pnora

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Its not going to move much at all with a converter or transmission still hooked up.
 

Beekeeper

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So doing a rope rear main seal in my Hemi in the car….yea I know. . So I decided to drop the crak shaft a td to help that situation. The rear main cap is out. The others are loosened and caps are down an 1/8 or so. Yep the side bolts are out too. Crank has not dropped. Am I missing something stupid says the stupid Chevy guy? Is the timing cover preventing the cranks from dipping down a tad? Just need a tad more space for the seal to go in. Any guidance is always appreciate. Scott
Do you have a sneaky Pete tool? If not invest in one they make that job much easier.
 

Nxcoupe

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So doing a rope rear main seal in my Hemi in the car….yea I know. . So I decided to drop the crak shaft a td to help that situation. The rear main cap is out. The others are loosened and caps are down an 1/8 or so. Yep the side bolts are out too. Crank has not dropped. Am I missing something stupid says the stupid Chevy guy? Is the timing cover preventing the cranks from dipping down a tad? Just need a tad more space for the seal to go in. Any guidance is always appreciate. Scott
Timing chain, balancer, timing cover are not going to let it move and now you have all that weight hanging on those parts.
 

2blader

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Timing chain, balancer, timing cover are not going to let it move and now you have all that weight hanging on those parts.
10-4. I zipped it back up so it wasn’t hanging just in case. Many just said loosen the mains and drop the crank a bit. Umm no it didn’t move.
 

Nxcoupe

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10-4. I zipped it back up so it wasn’t hanging just in case. Many just said loosen the mains and drop the crank a bit. Umm no it didn’t move.
Yeah, I have never had a crank lower with just the mains loosened. The rods hold it up as well since they are angled away from the crank.
 

2blader

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Yeah, I have never had a crank lower with just the mains loosened. The rods hold it up as well since they are angled away from the crank.
Thanks. Gave it a shot but nope. Back at it.
 

wagonman

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Qs Why a rope seal? When that was all we had before a Formed neoprene style ( like fords and oldsmobile ect ) OK. The Sneaky Pete method was a crap shoot at best. Back then the crank needed to be pulled and the rope formed with a tool to the seal register. How can you trim the ends of the rope at the parting line?? Guess you are trying to fix a leak? Bite the Bullitt and pull the Hemi it deserves to be done correctly. Had a Buddy with a Boss 351 71 Mutang with the rope seal they converted to Neoprene still leaked even worse. There was a small Tit-Spike whatever you want to call it in the cap to keep the rope from turning. Boy did that really distort the seal. Smack with a punch and all was good. Man I am Old.
 

2blader

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Qs Why a rope seal? When that was all we had before a Formed neoprene style ( like fords and oldsmobile ect ) OK. The Sneaky Pete method was a crap shoot at best. Back then the crank needed to be pulled and the rope formed with a tool to the seal register. How can you trim the ends of the rope at the parting line?? Guess you are trying to fix a leak? Bite the Bullitt and pull the Hemi it deserves to be done correctly. Had a Buddy with a Boss 351 71 Mutang with the rope seal they converted to Neoprene still leaked even worse. There was a small Tit-Spike whatever you want to call it in the cap to keep the rope from turning. Boy did that really distort the seal. Smack with a punch and all was good. Man I am Old.
Tried other seals and no go. It is getting to a point where it may have to come out. Sucks as I will have to remove the crossram too. But that may happen.
 

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How's the seal surface on the crank? If it's worn and grooved it won't seal without crank service.
 

diesel_lv

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I did mine not too long ago. Couple thousand miles on it now n not one drop.
Screenshot_20221018-202959_Chrome.jpg
 

2blader

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How's the seal surface on the crank? If it's worn and grooved it won't seal without crank service.
The crank is has less than 1000 miles on it but it is not the smooth one. It has the angled grooves. Think it is a molnar crank since it is a Barton engine.
 

diesel_lv

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awesome. Another idea to try. Thanks for the info. Did you drop the rear main cap or did you leave it in?
The only thing I removed was the rear main oil seal retainer cap. Not the bearing cap.
 

2blader

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The only thing I removed was the rear main oil seal retainer cap. Not the bearing cap.
Thank you for the help. Next is a crank case ventilation system as I just have breathers with a cross ram. Now have to figure out where to run the PCV valve to when I get it.
 

diesel_lv

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Thank you for the help. Next is a crank case ventilation system as I just have breathers with a cross ram. Now have to figure out where to run the PCV valve to when I get it.
On my 496, I'm using the Wagner M/E PCV valve. Large vacuum port on bottom backside of carburetor or Throttle body. Otherwise, drill n tap manifold for fitting of same diameter as PCV valve nipple. I get zero oil on my breather or PCV at the valve covers.
 

2blader

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On my 496, I'm using the Wagner M/E PCV valve. Large vacuum port on bottom backside of carburetor or Throttle body. Otherwise, drill n tap manifold for fitting of same diameter as PCV valve nipple. I get zero oil on my breather or PCV at the valve covers.
10-4 then the hose will be a 3/8 nipple. Found a spot to do it just have to pull the carbs and top off. ...and replce the rear main seal. Going to maybe shelve the rope seal for now and give this a shot. I hope this will help and since my cam is rather snotty it just may help. Don't think this is the cause BUT it may contribute quite a bit. We will see as I like things like this where I can maybe see a difference.
 

diesel_lv

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Quick question, you said crank is not smooth. I know that there are smooth cranks at the seal n knurled cranks. If it's knurled, I "believe" only rope seal works. If it's smooth, they all work but prefer the Felpro ones.
 
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