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Electrical Issues 68 Satellite

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matt90b3

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Hey guys. Im a little new to the whole muscle car world so bear with me.
Im having trouble getting power to...basically everywhere.
My main focus right now is the forward lighting. When I picked up the 68 Satellite shell, the lighting harness was clipped in a few spots. Its beyond me why it needed to be done to remove the 318, but I got that all squared away and re connected along with dropping another motor in. I have power going to the bulkhead from a brand new battery. The only problem is now that nothing works. What could I be missing? or be broken?
Thanks
 
Sounds scary. Could be as simple as fuses, or some seriously messed up wiring. Crawl under the dash and take a peek around. Check the switch on the dash and the dimmer switch on the floor. And get a wiring diagram. The factory service manuals can be gotten on cd. They have wiring diagrams as well as info on all aspects of the car. Consider it to be as important a tool as any wrench or screwdriver. A must have
 
A wiring diagram is definitely a must have, I would still be starting at the engine harness if it were not for the diagram. But my next suspect would be a circuit breaker. I see it on the schematic connected to the wire that goes to the starter relay from the battery. Assuming the breaker doesn't work, nothing gets power. I was just hoping someone would have experience with this component and maybe where its located.
Oh, and nothing is being shorted. I tested with a test light.
 
if you have a good charged battery and it is connected directly to the starter relay.the next step,when you have power to nothing,is to check the fusable link.it bolts to the same stud on the starter relay as the bat cable and feeds power to the firewall bulkhead.
 
Could it be on the inside of the firewall? because the harness that came with the car doesn't have a fusible link
 
Factory harnesses don't have circuit breakers, they have fusable links.

If in fact you have power going into the bulkhead connector, check the inside connections of the bulkhead, then check at the ammeter. All power going into the car goes thru the ammeter.
Make sure you have good grounds attached to everything.
 
Did you check all your Ground Wires as lots a time on the cars I work on its some Bad or Rosted Broken Ground Wires are the cure. As gauges the Voltage Regulator behind the dash cluster is always suspect for replacement. Just stuff to check. Now Your Having Fun and thats whats its all about Makes your Skills BetterToo. 003.jpg
 
matt90b3 said:
Could it be on the inside of the firewall? because the harness that came with the car doesn't have a fusible link
Click to expand...

there's the first problem. it would have had a fusible link at one point. when their like that its best to start right from the beginning. and put a removable spade fuse where the fusible link should be. 30A would be more than sufficient when things aren't shorting out. probably amp meter along with who knows what else is fried.
 
yea check the fuseable links,but to really make life simpler,get a wiring diagram and new quality repro wiring harnesses.Todays wire is more efficent and more durable,dont waste time on a ratty butchered potential fire hazzard harness.just my 2 cents...but goodluck
 
Get good help and a new harness. I had two close calls with fire and now carry three extinguishers and have a battery cut off switch.
 
I have a diagram, no fusible link(yet). And forgive me if I am in the wrong here, but I took the cable that goes to the alternator and attached it to my positive terminal on the battery. Everything(that I think works) started working. I have no fluids in the motor yet, so no testing the starter just yet. But reguardless, on the diagram the only thing I saw that could cause anything to not work is the "ammeter circuit breaker" where is this component?
All help is appreciated, Thanks
 
It's your ammeter in your dash, if it blows that's the breaker lmao no really!
 
No such thing as an ammeter circuit breaker on these cars......First things first, make sure you have a good ground off the battery. Second off, Get yourseld a 30AMP inline fuse or fusible link for the wire running off the stud on the starter relay through the bulkhead connector. You should have a positive lead running from the battery to the starter relay as well. Crossing the two larger posts on the starter relay with a insulated screwdriver is a quick way to observe A) there is power running to it B) Starter will spin. C) Bypass of the relay itself to turn over and start the car with key "on" position. Inside the car, take a volt meter to the backside of the cluster on the posts for the ammeter to see if you have anything coming in the car and go from there.

Unless you have an aftermarket alternator, it doesn't sound like you're hooking that up right. That sounds like a hook up for a one wire internally regulated alternator. The wiring from your alternator should be ran through an External voltage regulator (dark green wire). It should also have a black +/exciter wire that runs to the bulkhead connector, back through your dash harness and ties in at the ammeter. I would take some time to study your harnesses and the Wiring Schematics above. Once it starts sinking in, it will make pretty good sense to ya and may be a bunch easier to diagnose where the issue may be.
 
-_-Apparently the 2nd previous owner disconnected the ammeter and extended those wires to the non existent radio.
 
I have no clue how to respond to that.........:getwell:




Find some new harnesses and move on...All you got is spaghetti.
 
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