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Engine Block Water Temperature Sensor

67 GTX

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I am trying to figure out why my temperature gauge (along with my gas gauge) in my dash cluster sometimes pin. I replaced the cluster voltage regulator.

I was wondering if (not connected to the gas gauge issue), but the water sensor in the block itself could be acting up when it gets hot?

The gauges only pin once the car is warmed up, the car is turned off, then turned back on again.

Does anyone know where I can get an original block water temperature sensor? Mine screws into the water pump housing.
 
I am trying to figure out why my temperature gauge (along with my gas gauge) in my dash cluster sometimes pin. I replaced the cluster voltage regulator.

I was wondering if (not connected to the gas gauge issue), but the water sensor in the block itself could be acting up when it gets hot?

The gauges only pin once the car is warmed up, the car is turned off, then turned back on again.

Does anyone know where I can get an original block water temperature sensor? Mine screws into the water pump housing.

Napa. When I switched from 2 bbl to 4 bbl manifolds on my Poly 318, the hole size was larger. They were able to 'drill into' their database and pull up all kinds of specs on each sensor they handle...and provide printouts! They will be able to get you a new sensor. Although if you have two gauges 'pinning' I suspect what you messed with in the gauge cluster is causing your problem...since those two gauges are adjacent to each other.
 
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If you mean those two gauges go completely to the maximum reading, then something is grounding them & Dako is probably correct.
 
Mine doesn't spike, but does make a sweep close to it, then back to normal, once up to temp. Guessing maybe a grounding issue.
 
What do you mean by pin?

By pin I mean they max out, and almost seem to go further than they should.

Mine doesn't spike, but does make a sweep close to it, then back to normal, once up to temp. Guessing maybe a grounding issue.

I get that sweep too. I did just have the cluster out, and replaced the IVR. If this is a grounding issue, the cluster grounds through the metal piece that is taped ontop of the cluster.

Is there another way to check for what is causing the issue that I am having?
 
Is there another way to check for what is causing the issue that I am having?
Besides just checking all around good ground contacts, can't really say. I know my gauge is in good shape, and works as it should. Wiring is all new. New sending unit, from Napa, though it bugs me not knowing who made it, since they re-box their parts.
Pretty sure I have a used stock unit, I might try, to see what it does. Even sending units can be bad, out of the box.

Heck, all you can do is cover all the bases.
 
I believe i have 67 date coded temperature sending unit new in bag got from guy selling off sending units i believe they may have pentastar on them also.
 
I've had the water temperature sensor disconnected, and the gauge has been dead. I guess that rules out any phantom voltage getting to it?

The gas gauge still acts a bit weird. For example, i have a 3/4 full tank now. On a dead cold start, it swept almost all the way to the right, came back to the middle, before then settling in the correct position.
 
Hello,

Does anyone know where they can buy a new stock replacement water temperature sensor for the engine block? I am referring to the one that screws into the water pump housing. Looking for one that works with the original gauges.

Thank you
 
I traced the wire from the temperature sensor back, and found some areas where it was making contact with metal. Now the insulation seemed fine on the wire, but I tapped it up to be safe. Now everything seems to be working and reading properly.

But when I start the car, both the temperature and gas gauges sweep to the right (not extreme pinning anymore), and then come back to the current reading.

Is this normal?
 
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