Engine oil how much and what type ?

[Sebring]

Hi there guys another question I'd like to know how much and what grade of oil should l use for my 1973 satalitte with a 318 motor? It's the original engine I was told when I purchased the car and the odometer is showing 15670 kilometers at the moment. I take it its been around the clock at least once so what are you guys thinking on this matter? I'd appreciate your comments on this matter

 

[Sebring]

 

[Jerry Hall]

Do you currently have oil consumption and if so how much? Do you know what was currently used in it and for how long? If you know the answer to the second question, continue to use that. If not I would recommend a good 20W-50 with zinc content.

 

[Sebring]

I'm not too sure of any consumption yet l only bought the car last September and as l wrote in my other post it was in storage for the winter and when l went to pick it up there was a bunch of oil had leaked out turns out it's the rear main seal so its being replaced as we speak. So considering all that ill be starting afresh really I was actually thinking of a 20/50 myself

 

[Cojohnso1]

69 GTX 440 uses about a quart every 500 miles. (I don't put on enough miles to tell if it's increasing. But a 50 year old motor is probably not getting tighter?)

 

[66Satellite47]

For a stock motor I'd go 10-30 or 10-40, Maybe even try Mobile 1. 20-50 seems like a race oil, high RPM's with large bearing clearences. Just my opinion.

 

[VANDAN]

I've been changing the oil in my '75 Dodge B200 Van, 318 HD Pkg, since it was new. Until recently, I always used 10w40, conventional, but the last few years I've gone to the Syn-blend. Mine has the extra-capacity oil pan, needs 6 qts with a filter. It still all original, other than a Holley 500 & headers, 94K miles, runs strong, pushes 60 lbs pressure, so that's worked for me. Your car is probably 5qts, with the filter. Being further up North, I'd think 10w40, with the cooler temps also...

 

[66Satellite47]

69 GTX 440 uses about a quart every 500 miles. (I don't put on enough miles to tell if it's increasing. But a 50 year old motor is probably not getting tighter?)

Probably valve guides & seals. Mopar motors don't seem to wear the bores. Heads are a different issue.

 

[slepr1]

I think 20w50 is too heavy and not necessary for a stock engine. I'd use 10w40 if high mileage or consuming oil. Other than that 10w30 conventional is fine Any brand will do, no extra zinc is needed as its already broken in long ago. I like Valvoline personally. Go to Walmart, sometimes on sale for $15/5L. Don't use the Fram filters though. Get Napa or Wix.

 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

My experience w this motor(s)... chronic valve seal leakage. Fairly easy fix tho. I'm thinking 15-40 as I'm sure there's some wear. 20-50 may be a little overkill

 

[Cojohnso1]

Probably valve guides & seals. Mopar motors don't seem to wear the bores. Heads are a different issue.

I agree. In fact, when my plugs start to gum? I know it's valve job time. Twice now it started with #8 cylinder. On two separate 440s. After about 30k of hot rod miles. (Which includes some street and strip blasts)

I kinda figured the reason #8 was more susceptible was that excess oil and pressure would gravitate to that side of engine due to torque twist and acceleration G-force? Or maybe because motor is offset to that side and just gets warmer back there?

Then again, it would not surprise me if just a coincidence?

 

[Sebring]

Love the comments folks keep them coming

 

[toolmanmike]

I have used 10/30 Valvoline and some Rislone Zinc additive for years.

 

[Dako]

North of Winnipeg? I would think 20/50 would be much thicker than needed. May wear a battery down if trying to start in the winter months. I can remember having slow cranking using 10/30 when the temp stays cold. Below mid 30s.

 

[Cojohnso1]

I have used 10/30 Valvoline and some Rislone Zinc additive for years.

I agree with the zinc. Especially if you have flat solid lifters. I add comp cams zinc additive to my mechanical lifter A-body drag motor. As I watched my cam chewed down 5 years ago when they removed zinc from oils. (Again, that could have been a coincidence too. But sure was suspicious.) So I'm convinced about additive. (Actually, it may have been longer ago that 5 years? How time flys!)

 

[Sebring]

North of Winnipeg? I would think 20/50 would be much thicker than needed. May wear a battery down if trying to start in the winter months. I can remember having slow cranking using 10/30 when the temp stays cold. Below mid 30s.

 

[Sebring]

No worries about running her in the low thirties.lm only going to be driving her in the summer months so the temperatures will be up there it gets pretty hot here in the summer months. In fact it's a complete turn around from the winter where its around-30 ish in the summer months it gets up to the +30s thats a 60 degree swing from the winter to the summer( God knows how the vehicle's handle that much of a difference)

 

[Sebring]

I have used 10/30 Valvoline and some Rislone Zinc additive for years.

Is Rislone available in Canada,and if so where could l pick some up?

 

[toolmanmike]

Is Rislone available in Canada,and if so where could l pick some up?

That I don't know. I get mine at Wal Mart or a parts store.

 

[Sebring]

I can remember it must be nearly 20years ago now when l lived in Ontario Canada. We used to go camping in a place called Grand lsland in the US. On a Saturday morning we'd drive down to a big outdoor flea market in a place called cheektowaga just outside Buffalo NY. I used to buy Slick 50 oil addative from a vendor there for pretty much half price. I couldn't say 100% but I'm positive it made a difference in my old 82 grand prix brougham