engine question

[sam dupont]

No scientific proof, but I have always believed fresh engines will seize from setting sooner than worn engines. Clean metal resting on clean metal.

 

[Don Frelier]

I agree it could be a stuck valve or something in the valve train because it turned a little and then stopped.
If you unbolt the rocker arm shafts and you can then rotate it, now you need to find which valve or portion of the valve train won't move.
The why is another question?

 

[PRHeads]

If you really want to know what you have, pull the motor out and pull it apart.

Best case scenario is you’re able to clean, lube, and reassemble it.
You’ll be out some time and a set of gaskets.

If it needs more than that, you’ll be glad you pulled it.

 

[Tony Tee]

Get a cheap endoscope from ebay for your smart phone and examin the cylinder walls. Hopefully it's just light surface rust. And if no rust? It might be toast!

 

[R413]

****, rough crowd tonight.
Simple solution R413, yank it out and go through it yourself or hire a pro.
There is no simple website forum fix for this which is what I think you're looking for.
Seems to me you need option 2.

Not mine, and it’s already out of the car.

Take it apart and SEE what you’ve got.

It has been a problem for months now.
rebuilt engine question

 

[sam dupont]

call a couple local machine shops. You might be surprised how little they might want to disassemble, examine, clean, and reassemble a long block. If it is rebuilt and fresh with no issues beyond light rust (doesn't take a lot to seize a motor) it should take only a few hours of shop time and a gasket set. "Rebuilt" means different things depending on who does the rebuilding.

 

[Charles Cook]

Dave, you have taken the car down to this point. If the engine all of a sudden won’t turn over and you had it running before it was removed, you don’t want to here these words but, I would do a complete tear down if you don’t feel good about the situation. You have come to far to ignore the engine. Good luck buddy. Call me if you need any help.

 

[67MPRFAN]

Is the motor on a stand, is the flexplate still attached, could be bent allowing it to seize

 

[davek]

Thanks to all who replied. As Mike knows whats been going on with the charger I will get the engine free and then rip it down. Engine ran good once the intake leak was fixed. Great oil pressure and ran smooth. I just once again thought it was odd it froze up.

 

[davek]

Is the motor on a stand, is the flexplate still attached, could be bent allowing it to seize

flex plate is off.

 

[PlymouthMakesIt]

It is true that original Mopar engines are pretty bulletproof, I've had a 318 and a 400 that sat for 20+ years outside, the 318 fired up without doing anything to it, even ran on the early 2000s avgas we left in the tank without doing anything to the carb and the 400 fired up after filling the cylinders with mineral oil and putting a new carb on. But alas, you don't have an original engine, it's likely been butchered. Why exactly was it only driven 20 miles? Don't trust some unknown engine builder to get all the clearances and specs right, the only way you know for sure an engine is built right is if it's been driven.

 

[retractable]

Could mouse have built a nest in the engine and when you turn it over the piston hits the nest?

 

[Road Grabber]

First thought is that you broke the piston(S) free but have rust in the cylinder that the piston is pushing against and won’t move. If you spray the cylinders with something like WD40 or PB Blaster and go back and forth you will eventually get it to move.
Having said that keep in mind that the surface rust will not just “go away “. Your oil will mix with contaminates which is not good for anything especially the bearings.
So the price of a “simple fix” is an engine that could run but not as long as its potential. The rings won’t seal properly and the engine might last 30,000 instead of 100,000 miles.
If you have the ability, take the two hours to pull the engine, buy a gasket kit, tear it down and inspect everything like the main bearings, cam bearings and rod bearings. Hone the cylinders again. Get a nice set of rings, re lube everything with breakin lubricant and re seal the pan and other gaskets . Gaskets that old will leak eventually anyway. Inspect the freeze plugs too.
This is not expensive just time consuming and in the end you will know your engine. Don’t forget to prime your oil pump before starting and point the distributor gear in the correct location during assembly.

“Plenty of time to do it wrong and not enough time to do it right”.

Plenty of us over the years have had to do things over again because we thought there was a short cut.

If you get this engine running rust inside from the cylinders is abrasive and will eat up the rings, bearings and possibly the cam.

Sounds like a nice project. Do it right and take your time. You might be able to salvage a lot of parts. Hopefully the heads were done right.

Good luck

 

[MoparLeo]

As it is already out, invest in a good overhaul gasket set and tear it down to a shortblock.
Then you can inspect everything with your eyes. Check some bearings, cam, lifters etc for any type of wear/debris.
Rotate engine and check for tight spots. Recheck the torque on everything to be sure it is correct.
If everything checks out, you can now have some peace of mind that you know what you saw not what you hoped for.
Clean everything up. Change the front and rear crank seals. button it up and enjoy.
BUT if everything is not ok, at least you won't cause more damage to the engine and/or get left somewhere.
Cheapest time to be sure is now, before you just cross your fingers.

 

[JC Boatguy]

No scientific proof, but I have always believed fresh engines will seize from setting sooner than worn engines. Clean metal resting on clean metal.

It's true!!! I've seen it first hand, marine engines (stern drives) that ingested water, sat for days or longer with water on top of the pistons (hydro-locked). I've fixed dozens of these by getting the water out and getting them running and up to temp, 2-3 oil changes...BUT THE ONLY ONE I COULDN'T SAVE WAS A FRESH REBUILD!!! Obviously new metal can not tolerate the corrosion because there isn't enough oil "pounded" into the iron.

 

[JC Boatguy]

Could mouse have built a nest in the engine and when you turn it over the piston hits the nest?

Absolutely! Seen that too.

 

[dvw]

It's already out of the car. The answer is very simple. Take it apart and look. There is no other path.
Doug

 

[davek]

It is true that original Mopar engines are pretty bulletproof, I've had a 318 and a 400 that sat for 20+ years outside, the 318 fired up without doing anything to it, even ran on the early 2000s avgas we left in the tank without doing anything to the carb and the 400 fired up after filling the cylinders with mineral oil and putting a new carb on. But alas, you don't have an original engine, it's likely been butchered. Why exactly was it only driven 20 miles? Don't trust some unknown engine builder to get all the clearances and specs right, the only way you know for sure an engine is built right is if it's been driven.

dont understand,it is the original engine

 

[davek]

update 1 push rod is bent,piston says 30 on top and lots of sludge. Going to clean it up and go from there. Mike and Sammy say rip it down and rebuild it for peace of mind. I did smack the valve springs and the valves move.