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Engine/Radiator fit problem

BigFlo

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I've read (after the fact) that our early 60's B-Bodies engine bays are challenged for room with Big blocks......and I'm believing it.
I posted this in the Engine forum but didn't get any replies, so I figured I would post here with a better title.
Ran into a problem test fitting my Griffin radiator- it hits the fan, ugh.
Project summary:
65 Belvdere sedan. Original /6 with 3 spd manual, converting to 383 with 4 spd.
383 motor is 1968 date code
Am using a ‘63-65 big block Kframe.
Standard OEM water pump housing.
Flowkooler Mopar water pump.
I have manual steering.
My plan is to add aftermarket AC.

I purchased the Bouchillon brackets for alternator, AC compressor and idler pully. That setup requires a 4-groove crack pulley. The two inside grooves are for the alternator. The third groove is open (I think that is where the power steering belt would go if I had it). And the outermost groove is for the AC belt.
I picked up a Mopar race fan because I can't fit the standard or the Hayden clutch fan.

Here are the measurements I get:
5 1/2" from the water pump pulley surface to the radiator core support.

With a 1" fan spacer I get:
3 1/8" from the leading fan tip to the rad core support
1/2" from the trailing fan edge to the crank pulley

Based on what I've read, we want 1" clearance from leading edge of fan to radiator and 1/4" min clearance from the trailing edge of fan to the belts/pulleys
For radiator space, I have 3 1/8" available, minus 1" for clearance, which leaves 2 1/8" for radiator thickness. Not sure that exists but I haven't found one. I called ECP and their radiator is 3 1/8" thick at the tanks and 2 5/8" at the core.
If I used a 3/4" fan spacer, instead of 1", I could pick up 1/4" at the front- so that gets me to 2 3/8" clearance for the radiator and 1/4" clearance at the trailing fan edge.

What are folks using for '63-65's with 383 and AC? Do I need to rethink this whole front accessory set-up?
Any help is appreciated!

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You may be happier with a 66 K member and modfied transmission cross member. It will gain about 1 3/4" more front end clearance.
Mike
 
I'm using the 22" ECP radiator in my '62. 440 and stock water pump. Measures 3" from pump pulley surface to radiator core.
 
You may be happier with a 66 K member and modfied transmission cross member. It will gain about 1 3/4" more front end clearance.
Mike
Not familiar with that - what is the mod that needs to be done to the trans crossmember?
I’ve heard there are mods to the trans tunnel that are required because the engine sits further back, with the later Kframe. Any experience with that?
 
I'm using the 22" ECP radiator in my '62. 440 and stock water pump. Measures 3" from pump pulley surface to radiator core.
I looked at the 22” ECP. I don’t have the room for that. I have 1/4” interference.
Are you running AC? And do you have a 4-groove crank pulley?
 
I looked at the 22” ECP. I don’t have the room for that. I have 1/4” interference.
Are you running AC? And do you have a 4-groove crank pulley?

Just a single pulley all the way around. Thought I'd give you a number using the ECP.
 
Just a single pulley all the way around. Thought I'd give you a number using the ECP.
Is that factory, having single pulley all around with AC? I think that might be what I need to look at. Is your set-up documented in a build thread? I’m interested in what brackets are used, etc.
 
Is that factory, having single pulley all around with AC? I think that might be what I need to look at. Is your set-up documented in a build thread? I’m interested in what brackets are used, etc.

Just the bare setup when there is no power steering or AC. Both pulleys are 7" Dia. and a single groove alternator pulley. Not what you are looking for.
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Not familiar with that - what is the mod that needs to be done to the trans crossmember?
I’ve heard there are mods to the trans tunnel that are required because the engine sits further back, with the later Kframe. Any experience with that?
The mount has to be moved to the rear into the transmission crossmember or a new assembly can be fabricated. I went with a new unit for my car. The tunnel may need some "massaging" but, no I can't tell you if it would be necessary. I moved further rearward so I built a new, larger transmission tunnel. I received guidance from member DVW. Thanks again Doug!
Mike
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