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Epoxy primer, filler, and resealing???

Randy Marsh

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I've been stripping sections of the body down to bare metal as I go. So far it's been nothing more exciting than shopping cart dings, ect. A little pick and file, or hammer/dolly and then epoxy it. High build and some glazing will take care of most of it.

That was until I got to the one front fender. As soon as I started stripping with the roloc disc I could smell the filler. I found some amateur hammer work topped off with amazing filler work. Thankfully the style lines weren't touched, and the sins were all above and below. I got it much better (as good as I can get it). It will definitely require some filler though. I would like to get some epoxy over it and move on for now.

Can I do my filler over my epoxy, get it close with a quick guide coat and block, and then lay more epoxy over the top of the filler? The reason for this is timing. I can't do it all in one shot, and don't like leaving high build primer sitting too long before color. Thanks
 
you can lay down epoxy at the get go.. you dont need much.. Just enough to cover.. make sure its dry ,, so when you give it a light sand for filler.. it does not gum up the paper.. as for epoxy over filler.. .. I would not do it.. I would just apply DTM filler primer.. 1 st coat light.. so it flashes properly.. then standard wet coats after that.. flash between coats. normally 4 coats.. dont pound it on.. you dont want to run or trap solvents.. Thats just the way I do it.. everyone else will have a different take on it..
 
with most epoxies, yes, read the label

epoxy is the only primer I use, under and over filler

I use quality filler that works on both bare metal and epoxy

I seal up my bare metal with a couple coats of epoxy; and always rough it up pretty good before applying filler, I dont really care if I cut though the epoxy

as stated above, everyone has their own ways to go about it
 
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I'm gonna give the metal another go when I have fresher eyes. The guy really beat the crap out of it (picture ballpeened hammer and liquor). I got it way better, but he really stretched it out. I think now I'm just pushing problems around instead of fixing them.

If I can get the metal just a little closer I wouldn't be over thinking it. I'd just epoxy and move along.
 
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lol...... sometimes you just gotta "cave it and pave it" :fool:
I hear ya, but it's not a 89 Hyundai. I think the fender just beat me today. I think with some fresh eyes, a better mood, and the shrinking hammer I can get it. Working on 54yr old, 18ga, American steel has some advantages.
 
Saw a guy heat metal up and hammer the piss out of it to shrink it. He had a fender that was tin canning and it tightened it right up.

 
Ok....I win!!! I've never worked so hard to save a panel in my life. In total I sectioned 2 pieces, welded the trim holes, chased crap, busted out the stud gun, used every hammer and dolly I own, had the torch and grinder on speed dial, and broke all the rules. It now is a 66 fender....even to my liquored up finger tips. The pics are crap, but it's dead nuts... I'm proud. High build and glazing will take care of this now. I'd like to thank my sponsors....Judas Priest, Iron Maiden, Coors light, Svedka Vodka, Miller Welding, and sheer stupid determination.
IMG_20200419_013859202~2.jpg
 
I have a passenger side 66 Belvedere fender for you to fix as well.. :)
 
I have a passenger side 66 Belvedere fender for you to fix as well.. :)
My current rate to fix a mangled, botched, buggered up 66 fender is $5k USD. Lol. Just kidding. If you can't find a suitable replacement let me know. I can probably fix yours or guide you through. I walked the long road to be able to do this stuff. Mostly potholes and dirt on that road(but I wouldn't trade it). I can't work on it anytime soon though. You can fix it yourself. We can guide you through. I bet you could fix it before the UPS could bring you a new one.
 
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