Flat tappet vs roller....opinions?

[arsinist01]

Ok guys, got a bit of turmoil going on in my head. Had my engine all planned out and had the cam picked and everything, it was time to start getting parts. Figured I would be using a hydraulic flat tappet from crane cams. This being my first build and all, I tend to keep pouring over the info I can find online and in books. Basically online the word is that flat tappets are failing a lot more and that the newer oils cannot keep them going, and they tend to flatten out. Thus making the roller cams more reliable and longer lasting.

The cost difference between the 2 is quite a bit and the reasoning is obvious. I'm just wondering if I got a hydraulic flat tappet if that would work fine, and there is no need for a roller. Figured rather than getting my answers from other random websites and places advertising their goods, I should ask the folks on here that know.

Anyways both cams would be similar, about .500 lift 112 lsa 230/240 duration (all averaged numbers nothing specific). The big thing is the reliability, because when it comes right down to it I do drive my car at least a few days a week, weather permitting.

 

[RustyRatRod]

What are we talking about here? A chebbie, phord what? The car in your signature? My crystal ball is dirty this week.

 

[moparmarks]

Most of my new motors are getting roller cams. No breakin. Last longer. Better idle. ect.

 

[70rr-brian]

Hydraulic roller is probably your best bet today. Low maintenance, no modern oil worries, no oil pressurization worries for street driving and only giving up a little power over solid rollers.... Less drag=more power than flat tappets

Just my 2 cents.

 

[arsinist01]

What are we talking about here? A chebbie, phord what? The car in your signature? My crystal ball is dirty this week.

Well it's a b body website so I would only be on here asking about my b body. If you'd like I could send you some windex for your crystal ball so's you don't have to do so much thinking :sideways tongue:

 

[coloradodave]

For a first build I would keep it simple. Hydraulic flat tappet with quality lifters. If you follow the manufacturer's directions for proper install and break-in you won't have any problems. Use their install lube and a quality break-in oil and follow that up with regular oil changes using an oil with plenty of zinc and phosphorus that is advertised for use with flat tappet cams. There are several on the market. The key is to have the motor pre-timed, pre-lubed and a large floor fan in front of the radiator. Once it starts, set the idle speed to +-2500 RPM and let it run for 15-20 minutes. Do not let it idle down until this cam/lifter break-in is done. I wouldn't spend the extra money on a roller for a street motor.

 

[Moparsmitty]

I'm not sure of the costs involved, but Comp and some of the other cam manufacturers are offering nitride treatment of their flat tappet cams at extra cost. It's supposed to increase the durability of the cam dramatically. Might be worth checking into.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I have heard nothing but problems out of hydraulic roller lifters, unless you pay 'big bucks'. I would stick with the tried-and-true flat tappet lifter. I drive my car literally every day, rain or shine, with a .590 solid lifter camshaft. It isn't that radical (to me), but it is to the peoples windows I am shaking at the red lights :headbang:

My vote, hydraulic flat tappet.. I mean come on, you are only running a .500 lift camshaft!? It isn't like you are straining out the valve train with a huge solid.. Valve spring pressures can stay low, and your camshaft life high. I use edelbrock zinc treatment. I also run VR1 racing oil. Proper break-in is key to camshaft life, as well as frequent oil changes with quality 'flat tappet approved' zinc enhanced motor oil.

 

[MarPar]

I also run VR1 racing oil.

:headbang:

yup. good stuff. highest zinc content i could find...1200ppm IIRC?

 

[RustyRatRod]

MRL Performance has drop in hydraulic roller lifters for both small and big blocks. ....and at this point, we've still not been told which we're dealin with.....or chebbie or phord or whatever. My friend Rodney is gettin ready to stick a hot 403 Olds in a Fox body Rustang. That's why I always ask. You never know. To the OP, I realize what site this is but I was thinkin if people are gonna take time outta their day to try and help you, the least you could do is be forthcoming so that you could ultimately end up with some advice more suitable for your intentions. That said, roller lifters work better than flat tappets. Mike Liston at MRL Performance can set you up with Mopar specific DROP IN rollers for either a hydraulic or solid platform. NO grinding, NO worries about oil hole exposure, NO worries about bushed lifter bores. With pressure fed rollers.

 

[arsinist01]

MRL Performance has drop in hydraulic roller lifters for both small and big blocks. ....and at this point, we've still not been told which we're dealin with.....or chebbie or phord or whatever. My friend Rodney is gettin ready to stick a hot 403 Olds in a Fox body Rustang. That's why I always ask. You never know. To the OP, I realize what site this is but I was thinkin if people are gonna take time outta their day to try and help you, the least you could do is be forthcoming so that you could ultimately end up with some advice more suitable for your intentions. That said, roller lifters work better than flat tappets. Mike Liston at MRL Performance can set you up with Mopar specific DROP IN rollers for either a hydraulic or solid platform. NO grinding, NO worries about oil hole exposure, NO worries about bushed lifter bores. With pressure fed rollers.

car 1974 plymouth satellite
engine 318 LA

As for running high zinc leveled oil, that is one of my concerns. I don't much like the idea of having to find specific oils to run every oil change. What if I can't find them, or god forbid they stop making them.

 

[70rr-brian]

or god forbid they stop making them.

This not being the politcal forum I will refrain from making the OBVIOUS comment here....

 

[RustyRatRod]

Then I would go roller. Solid roller to be precise, but that's just me.

car 1974 plymouth satellite
engine 318 LA

As for running high zinc leveled oil, that is one of my concerns. I don't much like the idea of having to find specific oils to run every oil change. What if I can't find them, or god forbid they stop making them.

 

[coloradodave]

"As for running high zinc leveled oil, that is one of my concerns. I don't much like the idea of having to find specific oils to run every oil change. What if I can't find them, or god forbid they stop making them?"

Seriously? With all the millions of OEM cars running around with flat tappet cams, and pretty much all the major oil manufacturers making a line of compatible oil, typically labeled 'for off-road use', I wouldn't worry about it. You can also just run conventional oil and use an additive if you prefer. This is a non-issue in our lifetime...

 

[RustyRatRod]

Actually, the biggest time to "worry" about zinc level is breakin. Once the cam and lifters are broken in, you really don't need an additive.

 

[Northwest]

I had the same conundrum when I had my 440 / 512 built. My builder suggested flat / hydraulic for mine - but we did go with roller rockers for a high lift cam (560 lift with 250 duration). They insist on using high zinc Joe Gibbs oil and changing it every year.

 

[theman440]

There are some that say because of the size (diameter) of Chrysler lifters you can acheive near-roller cam profiles with flat tappets. I am not an "expert" by any means but it makes sense to me. Although if I went that route I'd go with solid lifters - not sure if hydraulics could handle the aggressive ramp speeds. For my money (I'm a cheap bastard and enjoy going faster on less gold) I'd go flat tappet and pony up for the better oil - my two cents...

 

[Sweet5ltr]

.590 Mopar Performance solid lifter camshaft and lifters, less than $200... What does a roller cam, CAM ONLY cost? $300+? Quality lifters another $300-$450? No thanks! Save the rest and purchase some harland sharp rocker arms or find some ductile iron adjustables. Can't go wrong with either.

 

[arsinist01]

Finally decided to go hydraulic roller, one of the things that had me on the edge is I couldn't find a cam with the specs I wanted that could make the same power levels as the flat tappet I had found (according to my desktop dyno). So finally found one made by Howards cams. I sent them an email asking the same question I am going to ask you lol, figured best to cover all my bases.

Anyone know of any retro fit hydraulic roller lifters that are also oil through lifters? I need them to be oil through for the magnum heads I am going to be running.

 

[moparmarks]

Why have the car companies gone to the extra exspense to install roller lifters in their motors?