Pulling off wiring and accessories. Radiator was full of mud. Started getting windy so I came inside. I need to unhook the trans lines, wiring, shift bracket, pull the drives driveshaft. Then push it in the shop and pull the motor/trans.
Found a new project. Ram D250
- Thread starter threewood
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No updates other than I got the exhaust off and transmission drained. The weather is getting better so I will start working on it more. I still need to drop the driveshaft, roll it into the shop, and pull the motor.
Engine and transmission are out! I had a free day and decided today is the day. So I aired up the flat tire and used my little tow and push vehicle to push the truck in the garage. Wife was planting roses so I was solo.
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Getting the engine out wasn't terrible, but there was some cussing. Got the engine mount bolts out, removed the trans mounts. I did find a few wires, cables and hoses still connected.
I had to modify my lift plate to fit the 2bbl tbi intake.
Pulling both trans and engine was sketchy but once I got it pulled high enough that the oil pan could slide over the radiator support I danced it out lol. I was standing on the back of the hoist and bouncing it back slowly until the tailshaft was free.
I had to modify my lift plate to fit the 2bbl tbi intake.
Pulling both trans and engine was sketchy but once I got it pulled high enough that the oil pan could slide over the radiator support I danced it out lol. I was standing on the back of the hoist and bouncing it back slowly until the tailshaft was free.
Triplegreen500
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Sniper. Power, driveability, and reasonable mpg.
Certainly a possibility. I already have the efi tank and In tank pump, o2 bung already in place.
So I cracked apart the engine and transmission. The flex plate is made for a crank position sensor. It was not bad getting them apart then unbolting the torque converter. It does not look factory. Is this a lockup transmission?
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It looks like the motor has been opened up before. Blue silicone and aftermarket gaskets. With the heads off, I still can't rotate the crank. Looks like water was in the cylinders.
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I've done a few trucks over the years and found that having a hoist up in the rafters was way easier than using an engine crane. Had a crane and don't particularly like them. If the vehicle will roll, I'm going to use the 'up in the rafters pull chain hoist'....especially if it's a pickup.
Runcharger
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Those 92 318's are a one year deal and they really turned on. I bought a new one and it pulled really good. 3 seconds faster in the 1/4 than my 86 318 truck was. It was in the 16's which for a totally stock 92, D150 longbox was moving pretty good. Good gas mileage with the 518 trans too.
Yes, lockup because of the tit at the end of the input shaft. Make sure when you put the lifters back in, the oil hole in the lifter goes "UP" towards the centerline of the engine, otherwise they won't bleed down and will hold the valves open.
I'm going to run the OD and LU with switches. In fact, there is already a factory OD switch on the dash. I've been reading a bunch of threads on FABO of guys doing it.
So the engine is apart. #3/4 rod bearing were spun and melty. Journal on the crank looks like you would expect it to look. Also, #8 rod journal is grooved and catches a nail.
Also, there is a tight spot when turning over the crank with a wrench. I haven't pulled the caps off yet but they are loose.
Block looks fine.
I can get a remanufactured short block for $1059, or do I have this machined and worked on?
Also, there is a tight spot when turning over the crank with a wrench. I haven't pulled the caps off yet but they are loose.
Block looks fine.
I can get a remanufactured short block for $1059, or do I have this machined and worked on?
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