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If the doors don't close square, that would be more factory correct.
Maybe you should contact Joe Suchy. He specializes in 62-65 B bodies. Maybe he knows a source.Yes the supplier had sent me a 2nd set of seals as a check of some possible production flaw and there was no difference. He said the seals come from one supplier (that's what he thought) and basically SOL. It was a stretch to put these in thinking they would conform somehow and exacerbated by my seals fitting beneath the door sill plate. He had said maybe the black lattice seal was smaller though after months getting my car back together I salvaged my old ones until such time might find seals that fit.
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I’ve got burned by this over the years too. Now i do all the final alignment with rubbers in the doors/trunk and motor and transmission in the car with the weight on the wheels. Especially with a unibody car. The closer you get your gaps the stiffer the car needs to be built. The panel fit on these cars was horrible when they were new. Also check that the hinges are in good shape.hi folks, I would like your thoughts here. I installed the drivers door and fender to do my initial gap and panel alignment as part of this restoration and had all the lines and gaps set to near perfect. I then installed the door latch/handle and a new door seal, from soft seal. Now, because of the seal, the door is being pushed out at the bottom and causing the door to get out of alignment. See the photos. I believe the seal is installed correctly, but you can comment on that too based on the photo. Maybe this is a know issue with a brand new seal, or with these seals in particular. When I push on the bottom of the door to see if I can bring it back into alignment, it’s very tight and takes a lot of force to squish the seal enough for the door to get back into alignment.
Thanks for your input.
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Top of the door is still lined up-
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Front edge is fine
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Good points.I’ve got burned by this over the years too. Now i do all the final alignment with rubbers in the doors/trunk and motor and transmission in the car with the weight on the wheels. Especially with a unibody car. The closer you get your gaps the stiffer the car needs to be built. The panel fit on these cars was horrible when they were new. Also check that the hinges are in good shape.
Looks good too bad my Mopar is too old for their stock.https://www.ebay.com/itm/391394559050
Yes, get the Metro seals. They are as soft as butter and are a perfect fit. The seals on my Coronet when I bought it were rock-hard and I had to slam the doors, replaced them with the Metros and I can shut them fully with just a finger now.