Ladysmith Bob
Well-Known Member
Once cleaned maybe try a small section under motor mount pads with rattle can clear coat. Should bring some black lustre back without being high gloss.
Here we go. One last time...
- Thread starter moparedtn
- Start date
Sorry I haven't updated in a while. Turns out, I did do some damage internally.
Oops.
Anyways, the cavalry arrives tomorrow afternoon. Ready or not, action will resume.
Oops.
Anyways, the cavalry arrives tomorrow afternoon. Ready or not, action will resume.
That's tough, be a little stubborn.
Ladysmith Bob
Well-Known Member
Your help is coming to move the project along - Supervise and use them!
Yea what LsB said. It torture to watch other do the work. Have the wife tie you to a chair.
Only reason I'm still above dirt.
Progress!
"New" engine off the stand and getting ready for clutch and tranny.
Lots of new Brewer's supplied parts installed. Flywheel is factory Mopar as reconditioned by Brewers and looks perfect. Centerforce Dual Friction clutch setup. All new hardware, too.
Mating the transmission to the engine was a hell of a struggle - could not get it to go into the input bushing to save our lives.
We checked everything over and over, even took the bellhousing off and test fit it onto the front of the replacement transmission.
Tolerance between transmission and the hole in the bellhousing was TIGHT; so was tolerance between input shaft and its' bushing.
Finally, I started a tranny mounting bolt on the bottom right and another on the top left to act as alignment tools.
I just kept tightening those, waiting for any resistance at all so I could stop.
Well, they just kept pulling the transmission in with no resistance, so we kept it up until it was mounted.
Thank God...
Yep, we used the transmission jack as an aid to level things up to get the transmission in there.
We're all ready to go for the install tomorrow.
Stay tuned!
"New" engine off the stand and getting ready for clutch and tranny.
Lots of new Brewer's supplied parts installed. Flywheel is factory Mopar as reconditioned by Brewers and looks perfect. Centerforce Dual Friction clutch setup. All new hardware, too.
Mating the transmission to the engine was a hell of a struggle - could not get it to go into the input bushing to save our lives.
We checked everything over and over, even took the bellhousing off and test fit it onto the front of the replacement transmission.
Tolerance between transmission and the hole in the bellhousing was TIGHT; so was tolerance between input shaft and its' bushing.
Finally, I started a tranny mounting bolt on the bottom right and another on the top left to act as alignment tools.
I just kept tightening those, waiting for any resistance at all so I could stop.
Well, they just kept pulling the transmission in with no resistance, so we kept it up until it was mounted.
Thank God...
Yep, we used the transmission jack as an aid to level things up to get the transmission in there.
We're all ready to go for the install tomorrow.
Stay tuned!
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
Late at night , my brain not functioning 100%, but , you do know that the tranny input shaft has to be able to turn freely in the pilot bearing? ............................MOProgress!
View attachment 407327
"New" engine off the stand and getting ready for clutch and tranny.
View attachment 407328
Lots of new Brewer's supplied parts installed. Flywheel is factory Mopar as reconditioned by Brewers and looks perfect. Centerforce Dual Friction clutch setup. All new hardware, too.
View attachment 407329
Mating the transmission to the engine was a hell of a struggle - could not get it to go into the input bushing to save our lives.
We checked everything over and over, even took the bellhousing off and test fit it onto the front of the replacement transmission.
Tolerance between transmission and the hole in the bellhousing was TIGHT; so was tolerance between input shaft and its' bushing.
Finally, I started a tranny mounting bolt on the bottom right and another on the top left to act as alignment tools.
I just kept tightening those, waiting for any resistance at all so I could stop.
Well, they just kept pulling the transmission in with no resistance, so we kept it up until it was mounted.
Thank God...
View attachment 407332
Yep, we used the transmission jack as an aid to level things up to get the transmission in there.
We're all ready to go for the install tomorrow.
Stay tuned!
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
My experience has been, anytime you have to make things fit by drawing down mounting bolts, you got a problem .. I have seen several tranny cases with a bolt "ear" broken off.. then you know how that happened................................MOTo quote Clint Eastwood:
"I reckon so".
Agree with cornpatch. I'd find out why you had to do that to get trans in. If it comes out easy and pilot bushing isn't stuck to the input, your good. It should go back easy if all good. Maybe clutch disc wasn't lined up but find out now.
Here's one cheap! A little hard to reach help may be needed!
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...sers&utm_campaign=neutral&utm_content=300x600
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...sers&utm_campaign=neutral&utm_content=300x600
Everything is fine with the fitment, fellas. I appreciate the concern. ...
Today's progress: IT'S IN!!
Well, sort of....
Got the starter in and new harness hooked up. It's ready to go in...
With the cavalry's help, the big bastahd is in and headers on.
Motor mounts on and tight. Passenger header started, etc.
Good progress, right? Sure.
I got under the car and swapped in the good speedo drive, reverse light switch and mounted up the shifter adapter plate - I wanted to do all that before the final raising of the tail of the transmission.
Then I saw it....
Well, sort of....
Got the starter in and new harness hooked up. It's ready to go in...
With the cavalry's help, the big bastahd is in and headers on.
Motor mounts on and tight. Passenger header started, etc.
Good progress, right? Sure.
I got under the car and swapped in the good speedo drive, reverse light switch and mounted up the shifter adapter plate - I wanted to do all that before the final raising of the tail of the transmission.
Then I saw it....
Houston, we have a problem!
I get ready to raise the rear of the transmission and install the rear mount and what I see isn't good - the mounting pad on the transmission is a couple inches away from the crossmember for the trans mount!
Compare the transmission that came out of the car (a 1965 unit):
....and now the "new" unit (early 70's B/E unit):
Do you see the difference?
The mounting pad for the rear mount on the "new" transmission is a couple inches away from where the "old" one was!
Whereas the old tranny mounting pad lined up centerline with the crossmember that the mount fits on, the new one is a good couple inches away from it.
At that point, I just stopped all work....
NOW what do I need to do?
I get ready to raise the rear of the transmission and install the rear mount and what I see isn't good - the mounting pad on the transmission is a couple inches away from the crossmember for the trans mount!
Compare the transmission that came out of the car (a 1965 unit):
....and now the "new" unit (early 70's B/E unit):
Do you see the difference?
The mounting pad for the rear mount on the "new" transmission is a couple inches away from where the "old" one was!
Whereas the old tranny mounting pad lined up centerline with the crossmember that the mount fits on, the new one is a good couple inches away from it.
At that point, I just stopped all work....
NOW what do I need to do?
Sorry, but I think you have a real problem with the new transmission. Obviously, the mount doesn't line up. But also, the tailshaft housings are different lengths. Looks like the overall length is different, means driveshaft won't work either. You can't just change the housing without changing the output shaft = rebuilding the tranny. Looks like you're screwed on this one to me. Bummer. I hope I'm wrong.
Thankfully, the tailshaft housings are the same length; in fact, the two transmissions are the same length overall as well. I actually checked all that before anything was put back in the car.
The differences are a)mounting pad location and b)dual shifter patterns on the newer unit versus the single one on the old unit.
The differences are a)mounting pad location and b)dual shifter patterns on the newer unit versus the single one on the old unit.
Agree.
However, I'm betting there's an existing part/parts that solves this.
Perhaps all I need is a newer trans mount/crossmember piece?
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