1. khryslerkid

    khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Yes keep an eye on that flex fan. After reading a couple of articles on them I went with the Derale. It really moves the air!

    Is a clutch fan really necessary? So many are hung up on haveing one. That will change your fan location also. (Ideal is about 1/3 blade showing out of the shroud)

    Thanks for posting and your pics :thumbsup:
     
  2. matthon

    matthon Well-Known Member

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    Hayden clutch, 18" Derale, stock water pump, 180 stat, stock big block 22" radiator, no shroud, no room for one really, all in a big block a-body.
    Used to have an old school flex fan and would get close to 200 on 90+ days in traffic.
    That fan/clutch combo sucks air like crazy and now it stays below 190 on the hottest days.

    I've seen some fab a piece between the rad support and grill support to keep air from going over the radiator. Sounds reasonable.

    Putting together a b-body, so this is good info here.

    I wonder if other variables help or hurt underhood temps, like a hood pad, auto vs manual, etc?

    20190806_001803.jpg
     
  3. Glenwood

    Glenwood Well-Known Member

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    I can't tell you all how many bits and pieces of threads I've scanned through over the last few years just on this issue. It's crazy how many guys can cool big blocks with small rads vs how many cannot. For whatever the reasons are, it just seems that some engines needs additional cooling capacity and I grew tired of trying to stick with the 22", which wasn't cheap but had a more period correct look. I think the combination of airflow & capacity were the main factor for this motor's cooling needs. I even tested for combustion leaks into the coolant to see if extra heat was being added there...nothing in 4 tests. With my timing set at 18 initial, I don't think the timing is contributing to the heat. It may be running too lean, but without an A/F gauge, I cannot confirm with data. The plugs look fine to me running on 94 octane, which no doubt has ethanol.
    Through many thread searches, I could not find a detailed install thread anywhere, of a larger rad installed into an early B and the results. Questions of whether the larger rad or a different year's shroud could be fitted or at least what the difficulties were weren't being answered. So I took the plunge and tried to document some detail. I had put money aside for a disk brake swap, which was mostly eaten up by this adventure. The brakes will have wait.
    However, I thought if the swap was successful, maybe this info would help someone else facing similar challenges, particularly with an early B. I hope the info was helpful to someone...
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2019
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 3
    • matthon

      matthon Well-Known Member

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      I couldn't agree more.
      I think I got lucky somehow, and I'm thinking I won't have the same luck with my b-body when I get it together.

      These in depth threads with pics are invaluable.

      Which leads me to wonder what the potential or possible causes are for higher temps.

      As far as AFR, I've watched some good info on the benefits of a return line and an afr gauge, for carbs as well.

      It prevents heat soak and going lean during normal, stuck in traffic driving, when the fan is blowing all that hot air right at the carb.
       
    • beanhead

      beanhead Well-Known Member

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      Question for ya @Glenwood....in the first post, you said after installing the new radiator the temp rise was slower but still got to 210. Then in post #10 it looks like 180s and all is good, what was the change that put you in the happy place? Just curious. My 440 would run 180-185, even in my beloved 100+ temps...but since I bored from .040 out to .060 and went from 8.8 to 9.5 compression it regularly gets to 195 (which isn't that bad, but still....the engine seemed happier in the 180s). I've been using a flow-kooler pump, hi-flow 180 thermostat and champion radiator. I'm wondering if switching a cold case would make a difference...thanks sparky!
       
    • Glenwood

      Glenwood Well-Known Member

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      Air flow and capacity of the 26" vs 22" were probably the main factors here.the larger rad slowed the heat rise but the 2" deep 18" 7-blade fan simply wasn't pulling enough air. Added the 3" deep oem fan and wella...
      Coming back from moparfest, stuck in traffic on the highway in the heat, it never went past the 180 stat mark. I was so freakin happy I could hardly believe it. The cold case uses larger tubes and is more dense but air flow is key. If I could have found a better way to pull more air through the 22" it would have probably be fine, but just not enough room for electric puller fans and the flex fan was too deep at 3" to fit.
      I found a 5 blade 2.5" deep fan at the show for $50, so I may try it with the shallow clutch to see if it can maintain these temps.
       
      • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
      • beanhead

        beanhead Well-Known Member

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        Aha so you got more airflow...ok thanks I missed that, I saw that when I read your thread again. I tried several fans and the 7-blade works best for me, but the shroud limits fan diameter. If I can dig up a shroud that I can make fit, that has a larger fan hole, that might be the ticket..
         
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