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How do you open a 2005 Ram 3500 with a dead battery?

451Mopar

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The battery(s) died in my 2005 Ram 3500, and the key does not unlock the door?
Any ideas on how to get the door or hood open?

I am thinking of removing the drivers inner fender splash shield to see if I can get the the battery cable to charge the battery?

I can also try wedging the door, and try hooking the door handle, but I would have to find a really long wire.
 
The key doesn't turn in the lock? Was it re-keyed at some point and there's another key somewhere?

Before wedging (and possibly bending) the door, I'd call a locksmith. Then have them cut a key that fits the door!
 
The key doesn't turn in the lock? Was it re-keyed at some point and there's another key somewhere?

Before wedging (and possibly bending) the door, I'd call a locksmith. Then have them cut a key that fits the door!
Or may be the dealer can cut a key if you have the VIN.
 
If you key lock isnt working and you do not want to wedge it, get in there through the grille with long pick ect and pop the release . Charge or swap the battrey.
Good light, follow the release cable to were it hooks to the latch, push /force that piece towards the left side.
 
If the key is the plastic fob that you just insert into the dash, inside the fob is a small emergency key that opens the drivers door only.
 
Or may be the dealer can cut a key if you have the VIN.
It sounds to me like he has "the" key...and it doesn't work, indicating a re-key at some point. Either ignition, including the key he has, or doors, which would include a key he apparently doesn't have.

We've cut keys for customers here based on VIN, then get irate phone calls "this **** don't work, you screwed up!". Then, when a locksmith gets them IN the car, the key we cut DOES fit the ignition - proving the door was re-keyed at some point.

Anytime I buy a vehicle, I check the key in all locks. My Charger has a factory pentastar key (doors); factory round key (trunk); Ilco pentastar key (ignition). Something got changed at some point. My 01 Ram, key fits all locks. My 06 Wrangler, key fits all locks (which is saying something considering 17 years old with removable doors!). 90 Voyager? Key fits all locks. Anything used, you gotta check as soon as you buy, so you know - and can decide what you want/need to do about it. I'd love to consolidate my Charger to a single-key (correct) setup for doors and ignition...but it's pretty far down the list, and I have all the keys I need, so for now I just live with it.
 
I locked my keys in my 2005 Ram and I was able to pop the slider rear window to get in. The key should operate the lock in the door mechanically. I don't think 2005 trucks have the fob,mine has chipped keys. I put new batteries in my 2005 Ram and I can't clear the check engine code about low battery power,any ideas?
 
I locked my keys in my 2005 Ram and I was able to pop the slider rear window to get in. The key should operate the lock in the door mechanically. I put new batteries in my 2005 Ram and I can't clear the check engine code about low battery power,any ideas?
You probably need a scan tool.
It sounds to me like he has "the" key...and it doesn't work, indicating a re-key at some point. Either ignition, including the key he has, or doors, which would include a key he apparently doesn't have.

We've cut keys for customers here based on VIN, then get irate phone calls "this **** don't work, you screwed up!". Then, when a locksmith gets them IN the car, the key we cut DOES fit the ignition - proving the door was re-keyed at some point.

Anytime I buy a vehicle, I check the key in all locks. My Charger has a factory pentastar key (doors); factory round key (trunk); Ilco pentastar key (ignition). Something got changed at some point. My 01 Ram, key fits all locks. My 06 Wrangler, key fits all locks (which is saying something considering 17 years old with removable doors!). 90 Voyager? Key fits all locks. Anything used, you gotta check as soon as you buy, so you know - and can decide what you want/need to do about it. I'd love to consolidate my Charger to a single-key (correct) setup for doors and ignition...but it's pretty far down the list, and I have all the keys I need, so for now I just live with it.
A "correct" dealer cut key is a good place to start. I have grabbed the wrong key quite often for my 2 Dakota's.
 
We have 3 newer "key fob" vehicles and I couldn't tell you for sure if the key works in the door or not. Never used it. Never tried it.
 
You probably need a scan tool.

A "correct" dealer cut key is a good place to start. I have grabbed the wrong key quite often for my 2 Dakota's.
I tried to clear it with my scanner and it would not clear. I had the same problem with my wife's Jeep, it took the guy at auto zone three different scanners before he got it to clear the code.
 
I tried to clear it with my scanner and it would not clear. I had the same problem with my wife's Jeep, it took the guy at auto zone three different scanners before he got it to clear the code.
It should clear out on its own after a number of key cycles with no problem. Does it turn on your check engine light? Or is it just sitting there in memory?

Have you checked to make sure you don't have a bad battery, and that your charging voltage is in spec?
 
OP drops a bomb and disappears!
My 2007 has the key that fits the door and ignition lock cylinder in the column. Are there some models without lock cylinders in the doors? Mine only has a lock in the drivers door. The key works fine for me.
 
Are there some models without lock cylinders in the doors
Some manufacturers (VW for example) have a "hidden" lock cylinder in the driver door only. You have to remove a cap from the handle, behind the part that moves, to get to it.

But no, as far as I know every manufacturer has (has to?) a mechanical lock on the driver door to allow access.
 
The key turns the door lock, but does not unlock the door. I read that the door lock rod migh have fallen off, or someone tried to break into the vehicle and messed it up?
I can't even see the hood latch because of the intercooler and radiator.
On the starter, the battery is on top and hard to get to from under the truck. I don't know if the starter is 12v or 24v?
Either way, I think I can get better access with the splash shield removed.
I even tried charging through the trailer wiring, but I think the fuse blew.
 
They are in parallel so still 12Volts.
Even it it was 24 Volts a 12 Volt charger wouldn't hurt anything.
 
OP drops a bomb and disappears!
My 2007 has the key that fits the door and ignition lock cylinder in the column. Are there some models without lock cylinders in the doors? Mine only has a lock in the drivers door. The key works fine for me.

I didn't disappear, I went to sleep.
Not sure how the keyed door lock works, but my back door electric locks quit working about a year ago? Might be related?

Worst case, I'll just break the drivers side window as I have wanted to replace it anyway. The inner film seems delaminated and the window is hazy like it is always dirty.
 
They are in parallel so still 12Volts.
Even it it was 24 Volts a 12 Volt charger wouldn't hurt anything.
Thanks! I think with the splash shield removed I can get to it.
The truck is a 4 wheel drive, so not much room around the starter from under the truck.
 
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