How do you open a 2005 Ram 3500 with a dead battery?
- Thread starter 451Mopar
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6 months on any modern vehicle and the battery will be dead.
You need to disconnect them if your going to let it sit so long or but a "tender" on it.
451Mopar
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OK, time flies, I looked at the battery date, it was 2 years ago.
Still trying to charge the batteries, but they seem damaged.
Guessing they pro-rate the warranty?
Still trying to charge the batteries, but they seem damaged.
Guessing they pro-rate the warranty?
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I've never had really good results with Duracell batteries either....may as well go to HF and buy theirs instead. They are cheaper and last longer.
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I've had surprisingly good luck with Walmart's DuraLast batteries. Just replaced the pair in my '01 Cummins after 8 years...although, like my motorcycles, I do keep it on a battery tender a lot of time, especially in winter when it has to really fire that intake grid heater before starting!
451Mopar
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I was hoping they were like the batteries I had before. Might have been DuraLast? thought they were Energizer or something like that, and they lasted 8-years.
I have a quad output battery tender for the old cars. I didn't think of putting one on the truck because it used to be my daily driver until Gloria passed last year and I have been driving her car mostly now.
Truck needs work, I have a pile of front end suspension parts I need to install.
Ball joints, unit wheel bearings, upper and lower trailing arms, and such.
Also, cooling system stuff, water pump, fan clutch, belt, tensioner.
Already did the brakes and tie rods / track bar.
I'm saving up for when the transmission will need rebuilt, that is going to be pricy.
I have a quad output battery tender for the old cars. I didn't think of putting one on the truck because it used to be my daily driver until Gloria passed last year and I have been driving her car mostly now.
Truck needs work, I have a pile of front end suspension parts I need to install.
Ball joints, unit wheel bearings, upper and lower trailing arms, and such.
Also, cooling system stuff, water pump, fan clutch, belt, tensioner.
Already did the brakes and tie rods / track bar.
I'm saving up for when the transmission will need rebuilt, that is going to be pricy.
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...this is why mine is a 6 speed stick. It got a clutch at 250k miles. woo. hoo. Until Dodge starts using Allison transmissions...I'll keep running my manual transmission till it croaks. I did have to rebuild my front end at 200k. I added the steering box reinforcement, made a YUGE difference. Definitely recommend it.
Steering Box Brace | Dodge 2500/Ram 3500 4WD (2003-2008)
451Mopar
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Thanks, I have had that on the truck for a long time.
I'm the original owner of the truck, just 18 years of daily use, stuff gets worn out and broken.
I started modding the truck about a week after I got it in Feb 2005.
Pretty much just easy bolt ons like Intake stage 2 with AFE pro guard 7 filter, banks intercooler, piping and high ram intake, Magnaflow 5" exhaust, Superchips Digital Propane injection, ARP head studs, and old (original sytle) Edge Juice with Attitude (Hot upgrade, CTD membership to get the upgrade) tuner (that went bad a few years ago, so it's removed now.)
All the injectors, pump and turbo are still stock, but it is more than the stock torque converter can handle.
Both diffs have extra capacity covers and the trans has the ATS deep trans pan that has been on it since around 2006. Maybe why the trans still has not been rebuilt after 160,000+ miles. Have the extra gauges and usually trans temp is around 170, but seen it 190+ a few times hauling the 32' enclosed car trailer.
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I had a bone-stock 05 for a while (it left with the ex - "wait...I give you the truck, you go away? Here's the title"). Trans temp was usually (IIRC) in the 140 range. Used tow/haul all the time, and it would drop it significantly, even empty.
My '01 now - Edge Juice (run on 3 usually), Banks 4" turbo-back including elbow, cold air intake with BHAF, Glacier Diesel mechanical lift pump (crank-driven; more RPM=more inlet pressure), steering brace...and that's it. And boost, EGT, and fuel pressure gauges. Everything else is bone-stock. Well, I did put a South Bend clutch in it, with a single-mass flywheel instead of the stock dual-mass. I just rebuilt the vacuum pump to kill my last (for now) oil leak, and replaced a bad water pump with a new billet one.
My '01 now - Edge Juice (run on 3 usually), Banks 4" turbo-back including elbow, cold air intake with BHAF, Glacier Diesel mechanical lift pump (crank-driven; more RPM=more inlet pressure), steering brace...and that's it. And boost, EGT, and fuel pressure gauges. Everything else is bone-stock. Well, I did put a South Bend clutch in it, with a single-mass flywheel instead of the stock dual-mass. I just rebuilt the vacuum pump to kill my last (for now) oil leak, and replaced a bad water pump with a new billet one.
451Mopar
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Checked the first battery today, and it looks like it might be OK after having it on the battery reconditioner / charger overnight.
Switched the charger to the second battery, so check it later.
On the 2005, I think that was first year for the fuel pump to be in the tank, and it seems to work good, but I did replace it around 100,000 miles.
I think the 2005 was the only year they had the plastic ended tanks crimped onto the intercooler, and 40 pounds of boost seems to pop the ends off. That is why I got the banks Technicooler setup. When I had the Edge on it level 1 or 2 was fine. Level 3 was about the highest setting the torque converter could handle. Anything above that it usually just sat at governor RPM limit (around 3,200 RPM) waiting for the converter to catch up.
Switched the charger to the second battery, so check it later.
On the 2005, I think that was first year for the fuel pump to be in the tank, and it seems to work good, but I did replace it around 100,000 miles.
I think the 2005 was the only year they had the plastic ended tanks crimped onto the intercooler, and 40 pounds of boost seems to pop the ends off. That is why I got the banks Technicooler setup. When I had the Edge on it level 1 or 2 was fine. Level 3 was about the highest setting the torque converter could handle. Anything above that it usually just sat at governor RPM limit (around 3,200 RPM) waiting for the converter to catch up.
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