Ignition or fuel issue

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Thats a authorised box, not a real as I say Mopar box. Bet you bought a kit to put in.
How to tell a "fake" ECU from a real one

 

[RobsRR]

0 Fuel pressure is typically not a good thing - And you having to crank it over for a little bit to refill the float bowls answers your question

I am not sure if I believe the fuel gauge. Have you used the oil filled gauges are they accurate?

 

[RobsRR]

Thats a authorised box, not a real as I say Mopar box. Bet you bought a kit to put in.
How to tell a "fake" ECU from a real one

I probably bought the box through Mancini racing.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I wish you were closer I would test it for you. look at that link I posted. Make sure the next time it happens you still have a good spark. 0 fuel pressure is not a good thing either. Not sure on the oil filled guage, I have one on mine and no issues. fuel pressure will drop when running though. electric fuel pump and a regulator by chance.

 

[Bee1971]

I have even gone as far as this when I was chasing Ignition versus Fuel

Taped to the outside front windshield - T off fuel hose

But mine wasn’t at idle

Issue was 4500 RPMs and higher

Into the gas pedal it never dropped below 5 PSI

That confirmed my issue was ignition or valve train

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I have a electric pump and regulator and run a AFB. not running 8 psi at the carb, running it drops to 5 psi just fyi

 

[RobsRR]

Interesting article on the fake ECU. What is the best way to check fuel pressure?

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Where is your guage line at? If it is near the carb take the line off and use a fuel pressure guage on it, like a tester one or a known good "car" guage. Do the ignition test first easy and fast.

 

[RobsRR]

Where is your guage line at? If it is near the carb take the line off and use a fuel pressure guage on it, like a tester one or a known good "car" guage. Do the ignition test first easy and fast.

What do you mean by ignition test.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I would think that guage would be fine "hot" if you have a regulator adjust it while running. Ignition test just pull the coil wire off after it dies and crank it to see if you have a good hot spark.

 

[RobsRR]

I would think that guage would be fine "hot" if you have a regulator adjust it while running. Ignition test just pull the coil wire off after it dies and crank it to see if you have a good hot spark.

Ok I will try these suggestions thank you

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Let us know what you find out.

 

[RobsRR]

okay hear goes. Tee' d in a fuel/vacuum gauge that I had and it ran between 5.5 and 6 at all times. Hot, cold idle and off idle. The other gauge oiled filled on the fuel line reads zero when hot, it has to be wrong.

So let me expand on my early post. When it is warmed/hot it spikes lean at idle on my air fuel meter then I can give it more fuel and it goes rich. It runs irratic unless I keep the throttle at say 1300 or more rpm.

I switched out my ecu, with my spare, no change. Then the Ballast resistor no change, then a spare coil no change.

Do you guys think it could be a vacuum leak, I was never able to find one but that does not mean there is not one. Would a vacuum leak get worse when hot?

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

OK you changed parts did you get spark with either setup? Fuel pressure good. Does your vacuum guage go lowerer as it heats up? Next thing I would check before the next step. Still can be fuel related to me. Stupid question does the choke open when it should and does it run ok when it is open? Really hard to troubleshoot this online.

 

[RobsRR]

I couldn't check spark because I didn't have a helper but I will, and I will check vaccum. Choke is good.

 

[Bee1971]

"I am running a 8.5 power valve. Idle in gear vacuum is 9 but car runs great until reaches about 190-200 Cruise vacuum is about 14. Should I go to a 6.5 power valve.
Choke is open all the way."

"So let me expand on my early post. When it is warmed/hot it spikes lean at idle on my air fuel meter then I can give it more fuel and it goes rich. It runs irratic unless I keep the throttle at say 1300 or more rpm."


Typically your power valve shouldn’t effect your idle - Unless it is leaking or ruptured

It goes rich because your power valve is opening

What else have you done with that carb ? Sounds like an idle circuit issue

First off you need to change to a 4.5 power valve like I mentioned earlier

 

[RobsRR]

"I am running a 8.5 power valve. Idle in gear vacuum is 9 but car runs great until reaches about 190-200 Cruise vacuum is about 14. Should I go to a 6.5 power valve.
Choke is open all the way."

"So let me expand on my early post. When it is warmed/hot it spikes lean at idle on my air fuel meter then I can give it more fuel and it goes rich. It runs irratic unless I keep the throttle at say 1300 or more rpm."


Typically your power valve shouldn’t effect your idle - Unless it is leaking or ruptured

It goes rich because your power valve is opening

What else have you done with that carb ? Sounds like an idle circuit issue

First off you need to change to a 4.5 power valve like I mentioned earlier

You mentioned changing power valve but then you say it won't affect idle. I had a small off idle lean surge and a carb rebuilder recommend the 8.5 since my cruise vaccum was 14. I can try the a 4.5 I have one easy enough to do.

 

[Bee1971]

Talk with the Holley experts over in the fuel section of this website

Start there

Peace

You eliminated fuel pressure

You pretty much eliminated ignition

So

 

[RobsRR]

Talk with the Holley experts over in the fuel section of this website

Start there

Peace

You eliminated fuel pressure

You pretty much eliminated ignition

So

Anyone you recommend?

 

[Geoff 2]

I would get rid of the POS Holley [ remember the boat anchor you always wanted? ].
In it's place use a factory Carter AVS or TQ, or an Edel 750 AFB.