• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Least $ power steering box ?

Did you just install the shims or also checked pressure output with a gauge, just curious.
In regards to leaks, i found 1 topic from a guy who bought the full kit and burst a seal on the pump housing (reservoir) which is not pressurized so probably was bad luck.
The book states both types of OEM pumps have a max work pressure of 950-1050 psi for all V8 engines, Borgeson claims optimal pressure for their box is 1100-1250 which should work without issues.
Flow rate of 2 - 2.5 gpm can also be met by the stock pumps.
Unless people increase the pump output pressure by changing things on the internal relief valve the stock pump would not be able to blow any seals on the box.
 
Well I got started yesterday with the removal of my steering gearbox. Will be installing a Borgeson box I bought from Bergman Autocraft. Got his modified column coupler, and the necessary fittings to hook up the hoses.
I thought I would list some of the removal process, in case someone has a similar set up to mine. Maybe help someone who might be thinking of this.
I chose the Bergman/Borgeson because of weight, size, turning radius, and steering feel. It was not the least $, which I quickly realized was a bad choice for me. I like to drive interstate speeds, and wanted the security of what this combination offers.
I had a helper who did the “ heavy lifting “, we started about 9, and had the old box out and we’re picking up tools and cleaning up by 1. The new box is not in yet, I will be degreasing, cleaning and painting now that the old one is out. And installing a new wiring harness to my mini starter.
984B6F82-2FAE-4BD0-8D56-3BA87A8E47F0.jpeg
91FFDFF3-BEBD-4116-A868-683247DF796A.jpeg
7E794939-EC44-407C-A561-A15B17ACF18D.jpeg
F45CD1EA-F777-4261-99EF-5DA61632BD2C.jpeg
21075DB4-73D4-41B8-9191-D4DFF670C53A.jpeg
21075DB4-73D4-41B8-9191-D4DFF670C53A.jpeg

We were able to remove the battery and tray, and PS pump with bracket. Pulled the 2 long thru bolts on each motor mount, jacked the engine up with a wood block on the oil pan. Of course the car was on a small frame lift which raised it about a foot. The old box rolled out the front without touching my hooker competition headers !
 
I'll be watching you :)
Why you did not go for the other u-joint type steering coupler?
It is an expensive piece and requires some modification but i think that is a more solid construction compared to the OEM type coupler, or not?
 
I'll be watching you :)
Why you did not go for the other u-joint type steering coupler?
It is an expensive piece and requires some modification but i think that is a more solid construction compared to the OEM type coupler, or not?
As I understand it, the original Mopar coupler allows for a little movement as the unibody “ flexes” . Unless you have stiffened from the firewall forward to the core support, there is some need for a little “give” between the column supported at the dash and the steering box. I have had hot rods where the steering had 2 Borgeson style u joints in the steering column before it got to the box, but they had solid frame to body construction. Yes it was more expensive, but the u joint would require cutting my steering column shaft and drilling a hole. I have a friend that used the u joint on his 69 and he gets by fine. But he drives his much less than I do, too.
 
I can understand the idea of what you are saying with regards to something to have some "flex".
When i redid my original steering coupler i noticed there is no slop in it that may be noticable in the steering wheel.
I suspected the OEM coupler would be part of causing the sloppy steering wheel center, but as said i did not find any issues there.
The coupler you are using now is also Borgeson? Do you have a part number for reference?
 
I can understand the idea of what you are saying with regards to something to have some "flex".
When i redid my original steering coupler i noticed there is no slop in it that may be noticable in the steering wheel.
I suspected the OEM coupler would be part of causing the sloppy steering wheel center, but as said i did not find any issues there.
The coupler you are using now is also Borgeson? Do you have a part number for reference?
The coupler is a BergmanAutocraft.com part. He developed it. I purchased the gearbox, fittings, and coupler from him as a complete kit. He sells the coupler separately. I have also bought a set of Bilstein shocks from him. His prices have been as good as Summit , and you can talk directly to him.
 
The coupler is a BergmanAutocraft.com part. He developed it. I purchased the gearbox, fittings, and coupler from him as a complete kit. He sells the coupler separately. I have also bought a set of Bilstein shocks from him. His prices have been as good as Summit , and you can talk directly to him.
The spring clip in the pic of the column is one I got off eBay. It is a very positive way of holding the seal on the top of the steering coupling.
 
The spring clip in the pic of the column is one I got off eBay. It is a very positive way of holding the seal on the top of the steering coupling.
I noticed that and love it! Can you please provide a link or description so we can search and order our own?
 
It is a serious retainer indeed, i think it also assists in overall chassis strength once installed in the car. :)
 
Thought I would post some pics of the Borgeson/Bergman steering box/ coupler install. Not quite finished, but the “heavy lifting” is done.
Didn’t have to raise the motor , the new box rolled. Right in place, even with headers. Of course the battery and tray were removed. It was challenging to get the coupler on the box, and it is at an angle that I wish were much less ! But Bergman describes this in his instructions. Have not bled the system or started the car yet. The new box is smaller than the OE, and you can feel the “stiffness/resistance” in the steering wheel when you have it centered and straight ahead. I’m anxious to test it out !

1BA320A2-84D8-42E8-816E-B221D4D3EB09.jpeg 3F9E9891-A5A9-4A19-BAC4-DA79E4C18E0E.jpeg E7593067-DE23-4E94-AB0C-B679DD65B763.jpeg 4A1FCFD1-180F-4C23-BB1A-9D32D79587D3.jpeg
 
Looking good, though that angle in the steering coupler looks odd to me but hey, if they already described that that will happen and they deem it good...who cares.
The OEM type coupler is also able to work under angles is it should be no problem, but I think I will go for the Borgeson coupler anyway.

How did you remove the old steering box?
When I replaced mine I had to go from below as it would not come out from the top/front.
But since then I also replaced the headers with TTI from which the tubes run a bit different, my old header was similar like yours with#1 cylinder going over the top.
Think I will go for lowering the K-member while slightly lifting the engine, need to replace the torsion bars also so I can combine the job.
Are you also going to add a oil cooler? I am thinking to use the Borgeson cooler (925126)

The new box is smaller than the OE, and you can feel the “stiffness/resistance” in the steering wheel when you have it centered and straight ahead. I’m anxious to test it out !
I can understand, really interesting how it works out! Keep us posted!
 
Looking good, though that angle in the steering coupler looks odd to me but hey, if they already described that that will happen and they deem it good...who cares.
The OEM type coupler is also able to work under angles is it should be no problem, but I think I will go for the Borgeson coupler anyway.

How did you remove the old steering box?
When I replaced mine I had to go from below as it would not come out from the top/front.
But since then I also replaced the headers with TTI from which the tubes run a bit different, my old header was similar like yours with#1 cylinder going over the top.
Think I will go for lowering the K-member while slightly lifting the engine, need to replace the torsion bars also so I can combine the job.
Are you also going to add a oil cooler? I am thinking to use the Borgeson cooler (925126)


I can understand, really interesting how it works out! Keep us posted!
I described the removal process on my March 12 post. I emailed Bergman about the coupler angle and he said that was perfectly acceptable. I used the Bergman coupler mostly because I didn’t want to cut my steering shaft to accommodate the Borgeson u joint. I have a power steering cooler, but have not mounted it yet. Mr Bergman says it’s not really needed. My cruise rpm at 70 mph is about 2100 rpm, so the ps pump is not spinning too fast most of the time.
 
Sorry, I missed the text below the pictures.
I understand indeed that when cutting the shaft there is no way back after that, IMO it will be the last steering box that is going to be installed though. :)
You have a low rear axle ratio with that low rpms, I've got a 4.10 so that does not work out for me lol.
 
Sorry, I missed the text below the pictures.
I understand indeed that when cutting the shaft there is no way back after that, IMO it will be the last steering box that is going to be installed though. :)
You have a low rear axle ratio with that low rpms, I've got a 4.10 so that does not work out for me lol.
I have a tremec tko 600. 5 speed with a .68 5th gear. I have 3.91 gears, and 28” tall back tires .
 
I got the steering all buttoned up and took a short test drive today. WOW it drives like a new car. Great on center feel, and still good assist. Money well spent. Texted Mr Bergman with a couple of questions as I installed. His answers were very fast and helpful. Great customer service. I’m happy I spent the extra $ over a rebuild of the old box !
 
Good to hear it has been all worth it, enjoy the ride.
That convinces me to go the same route and get a Borgeson box!
 
Just a question, if ordering the steering box does it come with the 2 M16 fittings for the hoses?
A local shop here in Europe has the box, hose kit and coupler as individual parts but did not see any mentioning incl. fittings.
 
Thanks for the input. I had ruled out the “ parts store rebuilds”, don’t see how anything would last or perform that costs $120-150 with a $35 core !

I'll be honest - when I was 16 years old my Charger developed a bad box leak and I didn't know enough to fix it at the time nor had the time (was my daily) so I went to AutoZone and got a steering box for like $75 and slapped it in... hasn't given me a single problem since then (18 years ago) --- just saying if you're just looking for an affordable replacement they CAN be exactly that.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top