• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Lifter tick after break-in

Not arguing here, but Castrol 30wt
plus the zinc additive is what the cam
manufacturer stated to use. Granted,
we put the cam in 26 years ago. The
cam was re-lubed prior to installing the
intake and pan after sitting this long also.
Damn, sorry for your bad luck. Rolling the dice on a engine built or modified a quarter century ago is quite a gamble isn't it. It's a lot of work to take it apart and make sure it's good to go but worth it in the long run. Just sayin.
 
It is probably best to personally inspect what you are working on before you ask more questions.
Trying to diagnose something you are not able to check yourself is not ideal. Circumstances aside. Wait til you have time to properly address the problem or do you expect the guy 200 miles away to do it for you.
Like playing telephone in school. Tell something to someone ,who then tells that to someone else and you don't always get the same message. How about a complete history on what else there is to know except that the cam was put in 26 years ago... Lifters type/brand. Rockers type/brand and anything else that is not factory stock and new.
What engine and what was done to it ? Cam specs/type ? Decked ? heads shaved?... All can have an effect on the pushrod length, lifter clearances etc...
We are not there either and only know what you tell us.
 
Damn, sorry for your bad luck. Rolling the dice on a engine built or modified a quarter century ago is quite a gamble isn't it. It's a lot of work to take it apart and make sure it's good to go but worth it in the long run. Just sayin.
I agree at this point that that probably
would have been the best route. Only
thing to do now, is to fix it. (Lucky?) for
us, it's in a tube chassis with clear access
for disassembly. (If that is required).
 
It is probably best to personally inspect what you are working on before you ask more questions.
Trying to diagnose something you are not able to check yourself is not ideal. Circumstances aside. Wait til you have time to properly address the problem or do you expect the guy 200 miles away to do it for you.
Like playing telephone in school. Tell something to someone ,who then tells that to someone else and you don't always get the same message. How about a complete history on what else there is to know except that the cam was put in 26 years ago... Lifters type/brand. Rockers type/brand and anything else that is not factory stock and new.
What engine and what was done to it ? Cam specs/type ? Decked ? heads shaved?... All can have an effect on the pushrod length, lifter clearances etc...
We are not there either and only know what you tell us.
My apologies...
The engine is a 440. The only paperwork
I have is a cam card. 300/300 adv 230/230
@.050 480/480 lift 109lsa (TRW-TP238).
I would assume the rockers and springs
are TRW also. This was a pretty common
cam back then, and with a 480 lift, I don't
believe exorbitant spring pressures are
the cause of failure.
I do have the machining sheet which shows
.030 overbore, welded crank journals, and
a .010 grind on it. No porting or decking
was done other than to square up the
heads and deck. I would also assume
the crank is forged as there's a ballance
process called out on the worksheet and
this is a 1968 block.
And, since this builder sourced TRW parts,
it's an assumption on my part that
2266F pistons were installed along w/
reconditioned rods. All-in-all, a fairly mild
build.
The guy who's helping with this is finishing
up the wiring harnesses. When that's done,
the truck sheet metal will be pulled off
the chassis, and we'll address the engine
issues. Thanks for your input and advice.
 
Not arguing here, but Castrol 30wt
plus the zinc additive is what the cam
manufacturer stated to use. Granted,
we put the cam in 26 years ago. The
cam was re-lubed prior to installing the
intake and pan after sitting this long also.
Not a problem, you wouldn't be the first not to be up on current oil technology, and cam requirements & oil technology and formulations have changed over the last 26 years. I do this for a livin', and am only imparting current requirements on you...
 
I just realized which engine we're talking about:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/pure-guess.213849/

If it turns out that's it's NOT something ancillary like an exhaust leak, rocker hitting the cover, etc...my first suspect would be probably be a stuck/crudded up/dead lifter. After sitting all that time, the tappets really should be taken apart and cleaned one by one. It doesn't take much for the tiny oil feed hole in the lifter to gunk up and restrict oil flow. Assembly lubes can and do turn to glue after 26 years, or just go away altogether. (If you did that, then I apologize). Not to mention the valves on the 'open' have been compressing those poor little plungers down all these years. Of course no one can say if that's that's the problem, just another possibility.

(I had a 440 that sat for 10-12 years, and some little tiny spots of surface rust had formed and were just enough to keep a few of the lifters from fully rotating in their bores. Luckily it was found out before start-up or it would have been bad.)

Again, check the easy stuff before pulling things apart...then if it turns out there was a major failure, take some good crime scene photos and we'll put the collective mind to work to try to ascertain what went wrong, so you (and anyone that may come across this) will know what to watch out for next time.
 
I just realized which engine we're talking about:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/pure-guess.213849/

If it turns out that's it's NOT something ancillary like an exhaust leak, rocker hitting the cover, etc...my first suspect would be probably be a stuck/crudded up/dead lifter. After sitting all that time, the tappets really should be taken apart and cleaned one by one. It doesn't take much for the tiny oil feed hole in the lifter to gunk up and restrict oil flow. Assembly lubes can and do turn to glue after 26 years, or just go away altogether. (If you did that, then I apologize). Not to mention the valves on the 'open' have been compressing those poor little plungers down all these years. Of course no one can say if that's that's the problem, just another possibility.

(I had a 440 that sat for 10-12 years, and some little tiny spots of surface rust had formed and were just enough to keep a few of the lifters from fully rotating in their bores. Luckily it was found out before start-up or it would have been bad.)

Again, check the easy stuff before pulling things apart...then if it turns out there was a major failure, take some good crime scene photos and we'll put the collective mind to work to try to ascertain what went wrong, so you (and anyone that may come across this) will know what to watch out for next time.
I just realized which engine we're talking about:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/pure-guess.213849/

If it turns out that's it's NOT something ancillary like an exhaust leak, rocker hitting the cover, etc...my first suspect would be probably be a stuck/crudded up/dead lifter. After sitting all that time, the tappets really should be taken apart and cleaned one by one. It doesn't take much for the tiny oil feed hole in the lifter to gunk up and restrict oil flow. Assembly lubes can and do turn to glue after 26 years, or just go away altogether. (If you did that, then I apologize). Not to mention the valves on the 'open' have been compressing those poor little plungers down all these years. Of course no one can say if that's that's the problem, just another possibility.

(I had a 440 that sat for 10-12 years, and some little tiny spots of surface rust had formed and were just enough to keep a few of the lifters from fully rotating in their bores. Luckily it was found out before start-up or it would have been bad.)

Again, check the easy stuff before pulling things apart...then if it turns out there was a major failure, take some good crime scene photos and we'll put the collective mind to work to try to ascertain what went wrong, so you (and anyone that may come across this) will know what to watch out for next time.
Thanks, beanhead. In hindsight, I should
have inquired from members here, the
pitfalls of starting a long dormant engine.
Will keep you posted on what is found.
Lesson learned.
 
Was the engine oil primed before start up?

Could be as easy as a tick from a collapsed lifter. Pulling valve covers can find this. You can also remove all spark plugs and rotate the engine using a remote starter button and watch each lifter rotate. Use a LED flashlight looking down in the lifter bores. Even at just cranking you'll see them rotating.
Good luck!
 
Was the engine oil primed before start up?

Could be as easy as a tick from a collapsed lifter. Pulling valve covers can find this. You can also remove all spark plugs and rotate the engine using a remote starter button and watch each lifter rotate. Use a LED flashlight looking down in the lifter bores. Even at just cranking you'll see them rotating.
Good luck!
Yes, we did prime it before statring.
Good to know about how to check
for lifters' spinning. Thank you.
 
What I'll say is this - the camshaft core itself typically isn't the issue, it's the flat-tappet lifters. Quality flat-tappet lifters from any box store are just a thing of the past, I go Lunati anymore (even with a non-Lunati camshaft) as they are drastically better quality than others I've seen. You can do everything right, pre-lube, engine break-in oil, instant fire up to 3K RPM, minimal valve spring pressure, and still end up with a wiped cam lobe due to lifter quality. The lifters I received with a cam package on my most recent project, a 318 LA engine, were so bad (gouged / pitted) I sent them back to the manufacturer for a refund. Even the pushrods I received from Comp Cams were so lacking in QC, a literal pushrod ball broke off in the box. OEM pushrods went back in. Again, I go with Smith Brothers or Steward Performance pushrods for a reason on performance builds.

As for oil, you want to go with a quality 10W30 even for break-in. You need as much oil flow as possible on startup. Test it out yourself, pour a few ounces of 30W and compare it to any modern 10W30 in terms of viscosity & flow when cold. The most critical aspect of a camshaft break-in is the initial start and constant oil flow. Project Farm on YouTube has some great oil related testing that displays the anti-wear properties and oil flow of various oils.

Last thing, if it's a 'fast rate' hydraulic camshaft from Comp Cams then it will sound like a sewing machine at all times. [Edit, just seen what you are running, old school].

Uncle Tony's Garage, if you're into his videos, has one that actually goes over this subject fairly well, he wiped out two camshafts in a row I believe using cheap lifters.
 
Last edited:
What I'll say is this - the camshaft core itself typically isn't the issue, it's the flat-tappet lifters. Quality flat-tappet lifters from any box store are just a thing of the past, I go Lunati anymore (even with a non-Lunati camshaft) as they are drastically better quality than others I've seen. You can do everything right, pre-lube, engine break-in oil, instant fire up to 3K RPM, minimal valve spring pressure, and still end up with a wiped cam lobe due to lifter quality. The lifters I received with a cam package on my most recent project, a 318 LA engine, were so bad (gouged / pitted) I sent them back to the manufacturer for a refund. Even the pushrods I received from Comp Cams were so lacking in QC, a literal pushrod ball broke off in the box. OEM pushrods went back in. Again, I go with Smith Brothers or Steward Performance pushrods for a reason on performance builds.

As for oil, you want to go with a quality 10W30 even for break-in. You need as much oil flow as possible on startup. Test it out yourself, pour a few ounces of 30W and compare it to any modern 10W30 in terms of viscosity & flow when cold. The most critical aspect of a camshaft break-in is the initial start and constant oil flow. Project Farm on YouTube has some great oil related testing that displays the anti-wear properties and oil flow of various oils.

Last thing, if it's a 'fast rate' hydraulic camshaft from Comp Cams then it will sound like a sewing machine at all times. [Edit, just seen what you are running, old school].

Uncle Tony's Garage, if you're into his videos, has one that actually goes over this subject fairly well, he wiped out two camshafts in a row I believe using cheap lifters.
So if Lunati is out, what would you recommend for a flat tappet hydraulic with a Comp cams in a 340?
 
So if Lunati is out, what would you recommend for a flat tappet hydraulic with a Comp cams in a 340?
FWIW, Hughes sells Hy-Lift Johnson that have been perfect in my RB. I think the thing to check on any lifter is that the face is convex. A metal ruler should wobble. If it is flat it will fail.
 
What I'll say is this - the camshaft core itself typically isn't the issue, it's the flat-tappet lifters. Quality flat-tappet lifters from any box store are just a thing of the past, I go Lunati anymore (even with a non-Lunati camshaft) as they are drastically better quality than others I've seen. You can do everything right, pre-lube, engine break-in oil, instant fire up to 3K RPM, minimal valve spring pressure, and still end up with a wiped cam lobe due to lifter quality. The lifters I received with a cam package on my most recent project, a 318 LA engine, were so bad (gouged / pitted) I sent them back to the manufacturer for a refund. Even the pushrods I received from Comp Cams were so lacking in QC, a literal pushrod ball broke off in the box. OEM pushrods went back in. Again, I go with Smith Brothers or Steward Performance pushrods for a reason on performance builds.

As for oil, you want to go with a quality 10W30 even for break-in. You need as much oil flow as possible on startup. Test it out yourself, pour a few ounces of 30W and compare it to any modern 10W30 in terms of viscosity & flow when cold. The most critical aspect of a camshaft break-in is the initial start and constant oil flow. Project Farm on YouTube has some great oil related testing that displays the anti-wear properties and oil flow of various oils.

Last thing, if it's a 'fast rate' hydraulic camshaft from Comp Cams then it will sound like a sewing machine at all times. [Edit, just seen what you are running, old school].

Uncle Tony's Garage, if you're into his videos, has one that actually goes over this subject fairly well, he wiped out two camshafts in a row I believe using cheap lifters.
Thanks for the advice. I'm taking notes and
will apply suggested remedies to the fix.
TRW from 26 years ago, I would assume
to be of good quality. I do know they didn't
manufacture their own lifters.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'm taking notes and
will apply suggested remedies to the fix.
TRW from 26 years ago, I would assume
to be of good quality. I do know they didn't
manufacture their own lifters.

I'm sure the lifter quality was much better overall in the late-1990's, I doubt that's why it failed. Here is a UTG video going over this. I run Mobil 1 in my 470" low deck, 15w40 which still has a high concentration of zinc, with great anti-wear properties and film strength. Everything conventional is Valvoline VR1 10W30.


 
Last edited:
I'm sure the lifter quality was much better overall in the late-1990's, I doubt that's why it failed. Here is a UTG video going over this. I run Mobil 1 in my 470" low deck, 15w40 which still has a high concentration of zinc, with great anti-wear properties and film strength. Everything conventional is Valvoline VR1 10W30.



Basically what this guy is saying is ditch
the flats and go with a hyd roller.
Food for thought. If the failure is due
to bad lifters I will consider this route.
I'll be creating another post to inquire
as to which cam I should get. I wish I could
post a short vid here, as I'm sure it would
help greatly with any suggested remedies.
Thanks all for your input.
 
I tried chopping the vid I took to less than
15 seconds. It's still telling me it's to big.
Everything during the break-in sounded
ok until after the cool-down. (1 hour).
When we went to set the timing and idle
for 650 rpm, that's when the tick was
heard.
During the break-in, there were no pops,
hiccups, or backfires. Almost as if the
failure occured on the post break-in
start up.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top