• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

lizard skin

eldubb440

more miracles than Jesus
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
3:19 AM
Joined
Jul 17, 2008
Messages
19,225
Reaction score
53,189
Location
South Jersey USA
gonna be applying both the sound deadener and the ceramic heat coating.......anyone else here used this stuff? other than following the directions, any useful tips?......I will post pics and commentary over the next couple days
 
No, but I did a lot of research and Lizard Skin is what I decided to use on the underside. For a driver type car.
 
I haven't personally used it but I've seen articles where the ceramic basically pulled double duty. No need to apply both. The sound deadener piece just stops sound waves like rattles and drones from being amplified by the sheet metal. If the sheetmetal doesn't vibrate it won't transmit sound very well...
What does Liz Skin say???
 
Exactly what has been said. I used this on a 1969 Ford Galaxie I redone for a customer. Big block Ford with one of those huge Magnaflo fuel pumps mounted to the trunk floor. Before the lizard skin you couldn't hold a conversation in the car the buzzing was so bad. Now it didn't go away. But it totally changed the car. You could hear it. But not much. Great stuff. I really didn't prep much. Just sprayed it. Bought the gallon bucket I seem to remember. Bought their gun to.
 
Can you brush it on, or does it have to be sprayed?
 
the body is in final prime with the underside painted..... I masked everything with plastic after taping any holes for possible blowouts..... body plugs are installed as requested by the owner........ I also plan on painting inside the trunk while it's all set up. It's the original pan with a couple of small patches, dents, and pits. We agreed making it "like new" smooth was not in the budget so I roughed it all out with body filler and will use paintable rocker shutz under the paint if the lizard skin doesn't offer enough texture.... I'm gonna put a quick coat of epoxy primer down first, it serves as an awesome adhesion promoter......... everything has been scuffed with 120 grit.......will also seam seal after primer







 
after a sealer coat of epoxy and 2 tubes of seam sealer, I finally got to the lizard skin......

sound deadner first........ sprays easy and fast, but takes forever to dry...... and must be dry before applying the required second coat, I'll coat it again tomorrow morning

then they recommend 24-36 hours before applying the ceramic insulation......WTF, good thing I'm not in a hurry

I didn't spend a ton of time in the trunk, it's looking awesome

stuff cleans up easy with soap and water, smells like latex paint...... I'm digging it so far, other than the dry times














 
Last edited:
low 80s today, little less humid, 2nd coat on and dry already.......looks great

yesterday was about 70 and humid......... huge difference

will allow 24 hours as instructed and put on the ceramic insulation.......supposed to be hot again tomorrow, should be able to get both coats on....... takes about an hour to go around the car
 
What car is that? The trunk floor pan looks exactly like what I need for the Express.
 
I have used this stuff everywhere. Inside the doors. Behind fenders before installing them. Gives doors that super solid sound when you close them.
 
didn't get to the ceramic coat yesterday, plan on doing it after my coffee
 
Eldubb. That's one good looking restoration you got going there. Great looking work.


thanks! ..... it is a buddy of mine's car, not a "typical" rust bucket, but it had some unique issues of it's own.

sometime early on the car was hit on the drivers side hinge pillar and suffered a half assed repair. The cowl/firewall was buckled and the wiper linkage actually cut a hole in the buckle allowing water to get in, rotting the drivers side front floor...... other than that, pans are original...... I replaced the pillar, post, and rocker from a nice donor section he collected years ago. Upper cowl panel is from AMD.

He bought 1/4 skins back in the 80s, so I used them from just under the body line down, along with the outer 2 inches of wheelhouse and the vertical part of the drop offs. Frame connectors are US Cartool.

I also removed the torsion bar sockets and rear shock cross member, we have boxes of RMS suspension front and back patiently waiting installation..... home stretch!

looks red in the pics, but it is EV2 hemi orange



 
Last edited:
I applied the ceramic insulation..... it is much lighter than the sound control which is very heavy. I put 2 double coats on the ceiling, firewall, trans tunnel, and floors. I do have some left over and will use it up tomorrow, unless it 85 degrees, it dries a bit slow..... also, it is bright white and makes for horrible pictures

IMG_20170430_180944_zpsxbnchnfv.jpg


IMG_20170430_180930_zpsv890l3g5.jpg


IMG_20170430_180039_zps6rnxwkvw.jpg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top