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Lug nuts keep loosening

Vanderstel

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Location
Escondido, CA
I have Weld draglites and I have Weld lug nuts too. Every couple of weeks I have to re-torque the fronts, I don't have this problem with the rears.
I torque to 85lbs.

Anyone have this problem?
Can I use thread locker on them?
 
I have Weld draglites and I have Weld lug nuts too. Every couple of weeks I have to re-torque the fronts, I don't have this problem with the rears.
I torque to 85lbs.

Anyone have this problem?
Can I use thread locker on them?
I wouldn't recommend thread locker but, I would recommend calling Weld.
Mike
 
Don’t use threadlocker WTH?

what type are your front brakes? Drum, stock disc, aftermarket?

do you have long studs? Are they installed correctly?
 
Might be bottoming out on the face of the drum or rotor…
 
You either have hogged out holes in the rims or you are using the wrong lug nuts for that particular rim.
 
You need long high strength studs with the thick centers of Weld wheels.

It you are using factory studs you probably don’t have enough thread engagement.

If you are using factory studs and torquing the 20 lbs over spec, you are stretching them. They will break!
 
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You might also check your washers for failure.

As an example, these 7/16" Cragar washers are notorious for collapsing on the ID from the lug rings. As they fail deeper and deeper, these will be seating on the hex as well.
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Worn studs, different thread pitches, insufficient engagement can likely be the issue.

If your wheels are new, I believe you are warned by Weld re-torque will be necessary.
 
I have Weld draglites and I have Weld lug nuts too. Every couple of weeks I have to re-torque the fronts, I don't have this problem with the rears.
I torque to 85lbs.

Anyone have this problem?
Can I use thread locker on them?
Do you have the weld washers too? Are the wheels new, if so they do this and will eventually stop loosening.
 
Sumting wrong, especially when wheel torque on our B bodies is only 65 ft-lbs.
Do you actually torque yours to 65? I would never go that low. It’s a 1/2" stud and can handle a lot more. 90 - 100 is where I aim.

I torque to 80 on 7/16" a body studs.
 
Yep.. NEVER have I had a wheel come loose. No way I'm cranking 50+ year old studs to 100.
I would be more comfortable torquing a stock wheel to 65 Than a mag. I think it retains its tightened torque in part do to the spring pressure, so to speak, that the conical seat has as the the holes are not flat against the hub like a solid mag wheel.

i was in the tire and automotive business for many many years and would never hesitate to put a 1/2 stud to 90-100 lbs regardless of its age (within Reason, and also visual inspections of course)

a lot of people run aftermarket non hub centered wheels around here.
 
I would be more comfortable torquing a stock wheel to 65 Than a mag. I think it retains its tightened torque in part do to the spring pressure, so to speak, that the conical seat has as the the holes are not flat against the hub like a solid mag wheel.

i was in the tire and automotive business for many many years and would never hesitate to put a 1/2 stud to 90-100 lbs regardless of its age (within Reason, and also visual inspections of course)

a lot of people run aftermarket non hub centered wheels around here.
Oh, you’re that guy at the tire store.


IMG_2336.png
 
I think your lugs might be bottoming out on the disc hat before tightening the wheel, but maybe not. It needs investigating, not just occasional retightening.
Personally, I would automatically put 3" long studs and open end lugs on any car using weld wheels. Or centerlines. Or new Torque thrusts with conical seats.
 
Oh, you’re that guy at the tire store.


View attachment 1570836
I had that happen to me where the lug nut would not budge and I broke a cross bar trying to get it off. The shock that went through my hands, arms and shoulders was unforgettable as I fell on the ground. Thankfully nothing else happened.
 
I like it when people like @R413 put big ❌ on a persons post but offer no real valuable opinion or reason…..
 
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