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Lug nuts keep loosening

I'd have to check again, but the last time I did a measurement, the nuts did not extend through the rim center, I did this with the wheel off.
 
I have used mag lugs with two washers occasionally for 40 years. The only time I lost a wheel was on my 55 chevy..... with a rat motor and a too-hard shifting turbo 400. Snapped all five right rear lugs on a 1-2 PART-throttle shift...... with a steel wheel, and stock 7/16 studs.
Never any problem with mag lugs with an extra washer.
 
cosgig said:
….I believe I’ve bought over 200 sets of tires in my lifetime, probably more. Never had a rim come off in all my years.
Click to expand...

Wow, that’s a lot of tire sets. Are those for personal autos, or do you have a business with vehicles requiring frequent tire replacement?
 
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That is just for my personal vehicles. I currently own and insure 11 vehicles, and have owned over 130 classic vehicles in my time in this hobby. Don’t hold it against me, but at one time I owned five 1970 GTO’s at the same time. I bought one just for the windshield, but it was so much fun to beat on that I just kept driving it. As long as I didn’t break the windshield! :)
BSB67 said:
Wow, that’s a lot of tire sets. Are those for personal autos, or do you have a business with vehicles requiring frequent tire replacement?
Click to expand...
 
OP, image from a previous thread, do your lugs (lol, sorry, studs, tanks 33!) have a taper that may have caused this flare?

1702242557695.png
1702243934446.png
 
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Tapered vs non-tapered studs, I don't know I'll have to check. The other thread... I recognized the nuts had been mushroomed, all have been replaced.
 
A couple of things I noticed. The lugs you referenced to on your post #32 is that they sre extnded length lug nuts.
With the wheel removed, simply measure the thickness of the wheel through the lug nut hole. Compare this number to the length of the lugnut shank inluding the washer if required. This will tell you if the lug is too long or not.
Second about the lug nut torque recommended by the rim manufacturer.
The wheel stud materials used back when the cars were new was a softer steel and not rated for high torque loads.
Wheel studs used for drag racing stronger, longer wheel studs rated for much more torque than even a current cars are.
If overtorqued they would/could stretch and fail while driving.
Do not exceed the car manufacturers torque spec. unless modern studs have been installed.

The following is from the Weld Wheel website:
" If re-installing the center bolts, we recommend using one drop of Red Loctite 2760 on each bolt and allow 24 hours to cure. Loctite 272 may also be used if 2760 cannot obtained. Loctite 272 will require 72 hours to cure to full strength. Loctite activator 7649 may be used in combination with either Loctite thread locker listed to decrease the cure time to 30 minutes. Torque sequence for the center bolts is the same sequence used for lug nuts (star/crisscross pattern)."

Later and current studs are much stronger than the pre radial tire days studs and wheels, which were eventually upgraded and were specified for a time as "Radial tire rated". If the wheels are older/early (1970's vintage) versions, they would have stamped on the back of the wheel along with the DOT rated stamp if they were rated for radial tires.
 
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This doesn't help the OP so sorry, but on the discussion of torque values, I've never used a torque wrench EVER on lug nuts. Steel wheels or alloy wheels, I've always snugged them down in a cross pattern while the wheel is in the air, holding the tire between my calves, and then tightened them again in a cross pattern once the weight of the car is on them. Then go around in a circle for a final check. Just use a 2 foot bar and go by feel, not going crazy. This was how my dad taught me 35 years ago. He didn't have a torque wrench. I wonder if he did I would be doing it differently now?
 
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If you have the wheel mounted with a couple of nuts how much stud is showing where there isn't a nut? Down in the hole a little, flush with the hole or out of the hole? Then run a nut on the stud without a washer and see if it bottoms out before making contact with the wheel. If it does how much gap is there?
 
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I think everyone is making this too complicated.
Take the wheel off, put a lug and washer in the lug hole. If it sticks out past the mounting face, you have the wrong lugs.
If it doesn't, look at the drum (if i recall, o.p. said he has drums up front too) and see if there is part of the stud, or a drum retainer clip sticking past the drum mounting face. If there is, that's your problem.
If it were me.... I'd just shorten the lugs a bit.
But then, if it were me..... there would be 3" long aftermarket studs and open end lugs on it. With wheels with thick centers, I consider them mandatory.
 
I've stated before, the lug nuts do NOT extend past the mounting face of the rim, I'm certain the nuts I'm using are correct for my rims.

I haven't had a chance to take the wheel off and inspect the studs.
 
These might look excessively long, but they are the correct length for the weld wheels I had
IMG_2347.jpeg
 
4mulas said:
Do you actually torque yours to 65? I would never go that low. It’s a 1/2" stud and can handle a lot more. 90 - 100 is where I aim.

I torque to 80 on 7/16" a body studs.
Click to expand...

Seems mopar built a couple zillion cars and called for 65. Keeps the wheels on the car, doesn’t break studs, and you could get the wheel off on the side of the road without much fuss. OTOH, torquing that high can cause headaches like warped rotors. Not seeing why you’d be doing that when 65 works like a charm.
 
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Some Car Guy said:
Seems mopar built a couple zillion cars and called for 65. Keeps the wheels on the car, doesn’t break studs, and you could get the wheel off on the side of the road without much fuss. OTOH, torquing that high can cause headaches like warped rotors. Not seeing why you’d be doing that when 65 works like a charm.
Click to expand...
65 ft/lbs was typically for a 14 x 5.5" steel rim with a narrow bias ply tire on it.
If that's what youre running then go 65 is perfect just like the manual says.

Now front wheel drive cars with aluminum wheels require higher lug nut torque.
I have a couple 2000 300m's with 17x7 aluminum wheels 225/55/17 tires.
They call for 110 ft/lbs with a 1/2"X 20 stud (same size as most B-Bodies)
So you can certainly torque a wheel to 100 ft/lbs without damage to the stud.

Even on my rear wheel drive stuff I tighten the front more than the rear.
 
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