Members with 4 wheel disc systems.....Can you get the tires to skid?

[1 Wild R/T]

I've found plenty of pads that don't stay put... Weatherstrip adhesive and add the stainless trim... The trim actually helps prevent the rubber from flexing around the edges.. And looks good doing it..

good to hear you're making progress..

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Question.. New booster, new bell crank linkage.. Did you receive the metal bushings for the booster pushrod & the bell crank pushrod?

I've seen a number of those assembled without the bushings, it causes a binding/low pedal...

I just did an image search & all the new bell cranks has a big hole where the bushing belongs but no bushing...

 

[Kern Dog]

The booster had a bushing in it. The pedal pushrod did also but I had to go through my stash to find something to use for the end of the linkage that attaches to the bottom of the dash frame bracket. You can see I have duct tape keeping it from slipping out.
This is part of what pissed me off and maybe I myself am the only one to blame...
I've never assembled this stuff before so some rudimentary directions or guidelines would have helped. I like to go into new things with some preparation. Unlike some people, I actually DO read directions. Having something from the vendor to give the installers some tips would have helped a lot. I first pressed the pedal with the 2 bolt MC in place and when the pedal went (almost) to the floor and stayed there, I just thought the pushrod wasn't making contact with the MC piston....So I got online and ordered a new MC. Later when I came back out and trial fitted the iron MC, the same thing happened again. I was pissed but wasn't sure if the manufacturer was to blame or should I have automatically known to assemble the linkage but don't crank down the hardware.

I don't mind going into a tough job knowing that it is going to be difficult.
In short, I could have done this in far less time if I wasn't still sore. If I had better lighting it would have helped too. Good thing it hasn't been that hot the past few days.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Where you have the tape there should be two bushings and a 1/2" solid shaft with a short section of 3/8-16 stud sticking out one end... So one of the holes in the support will be 3/8" and the other is 1/2"

Here's a good picture of the correct parts...

https://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/81/236281/001.jpg

 

[1 Wild R/T]

BTW that soreness working under the dash... Hopefully you'll recover fully for now but in another ten years that'll be your new normal... DAMHIK...

 

[Kern Dog]

I have another one of these brackets that needs to sit in Evaporust awhile. The new one looked like this:

No bushing in the bottom hole and just a 3" 3/8" threaded bolt with a nylock nut. I had to back off the nut to allow the damn thing to move freely.
Aftermarket "reproductions"...

 

[Kern Dog]

BTW that soreness working under the dash... Hopefully you'll recover fully for now but in another ten years that'll be your new normal... DAMHIK...

Ha ha...YEAH, I thought many times today that this is a preview of the future. I recover quickly from most pain and discomfort. For some reason, both arms and shoulders have been weaker and more sore since the fall.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The bolt is absolutely wrong... The tightening takes place entirely at the end with the nut... And there needs to be a 1/2" shaft with two nylon bushings passing through the tube..

 

[Kern Dog]

It looks like it is supposed to be "bushed" like the clutch and brake pedals are.

Well, the aftermarket stuff I got is NOT bushed.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Is this what you need?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Not sure if your clutch pedal shaft is like OE

It looks like it is supposed to be "bushed" like the clutch and brake pedals are.

View attachment 1513292

Well, the aftermarket stuff I got is NOT bushed.

Like I mentioned, the hole through the support bracket at one end is 1/2" so the bolt will flop around... Get this stuff sorted & the pedal with likely be higher ^ move smoothly...

 

[Kern Dog]

Here is the rusty one I had out back.

I did drop it in the Evaporust but I don’t know if I want to change this out right away.
At least I can get it ready for later.
I took the steering wheel out for the job but next time I may pull the seat too.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Is this what you need?

View attachment 1513296

Those are nice but he'd still need the shaft... I've never had a problem with the nylon bushings but those are nice..

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Those are nice but he'd still need the shaft... I've never had a problem with the nylon bushings but those are nice..

Mines the same way, you’re talking about the shaft to raise the pedal up?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Next time your under there check the holes on both ends of the bracket... If both holes are 3/8" then you can use that sleeve in your crusty bell crank and two bushings... The sleeve should be longer that the tube on the bell crank including the flanges on the bushings.. You should be able to tighten the bolt without the bell crank binding, the tension should transfer through that sleeve...

If the support bracket has one 3/8" hole & one 1/2" hole then you should have a shaft like in the picture I linked above...

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Mines the same way, you’re talking about the shaft to raise the pedal up?

Every pivot needs to swivel freely but none should have any slop... Slop mostly at first will just cause a low pedal but long term it will become a wear point because parts aren't fully supported...

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

The aluminum 2 bolt MC I had was also 15/16". This allowed a direct comparison between boosters.
The only difference is that I now have a dual diaphragm booster. The car flat out stops.
I put on the iron 15/16" unit because it was right hereon the shelf. It will not stay on the car though. I'll save it for the manual brake cars.
I bought the 1 1/32" aluminum MC that may arrive before the weekend, maybe not. When it does arrive, I'll install it and bleed out all the air. At that point, I may be satisfied enough to call this segment DONE.
I need a better quality brake pedal pad, one that actually stays in place.

Not to sour your plans on the aluminum MC and I know very little about it, but a quick search revealed quite a few people are having leaking issues with the aluminum MC's compared to the iron ones. Not sure how many miles before any issues show up. Just something to watch out for. Although I've also heard some major car manufacturers use aluminum MC's.

I have aftermarket brake pedal pad on my car and it also tends to peel off every so often.

Great results on the dual diaphragm booster. That's awesome.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I've found plenty of pads that don't stay put... Weatherstrip adhesive and add the stainless trim... The trim actually helps prevent the rubber from flexing around the edges.. And looks good doing it..

good to hear you're making progress..

I used to have the chrome trim around the repop pad on my brake pedal. Every so often it kept shifting and peeling off and catching on my shoe. Enough times of that and I removed the darn thing. Must have been user installation error by me. I never recall that issue with the original from the factory that was on my other car. I think the rubber is a bit thicker than OEM.

 

[Kern Dog]

Not to sour your plans on the aluminum MC and I know very little about it, but a quick search revealed quite a few people are having leaking issues with the aluminum MC's compared to the iron ones.

I've had leakage on almost every master cylinder I've ever used, even late model cars.
That is one reason that I switched to the DOT 5. I don't care about paint damage in my crappy looking cars. They get DOT 3.

Today, I got two deliveries. One was this:

This is aluminum and is light!

3 1/2 lbs! It has a 1 1/32" bore.
The master cylinder that I was using with the A body booster:

It is hard to believe how light some things can be.
The second delivery came from a FBBO member that stepped up to help me out.
I've been annoyed with how much lower the brake pedal sits with the new booster and linkage.

It isn't as obvious here but certainly more noticeable with a straightedge across the clutch pedal. I needed a way to raise the brake pedal to match.
The fix is to take the pushrod that attaches to the pedal arm and the linkage....

Cut it at the line....

Then weld a small piece of metal in between.

 

[Kern Dog]

The helpful FBBO member had a better idea. (I'm keeping his name a secret until he says it is okay to tell.)

Yes! An adjustable pushrod. This was a stock unit modified to allow extension.

I could put a nut on the threaded section so the two halves would still make contact and make a solid connection. My rough guess is that 1/4" of adjusting out may be more than enough to bring the pedal up to where I want it.