modifying 4pin ballast wiring to work with 2pin ballast

[70RR2GO]

I've purchased a new M&H engine wiring harness for my 1970 roadrunner. The new harness was ordered with the electronic ign. harness upgrade that came with the hook ups for the 4 pin ballast. I'd like to keep the original look of the 2 pin ballast and i'm going to use the 4 pin electronic box. My question is, can anyone here tell me what to do with the wires on the M & H wiring harness?

 

[mopar 3 B]

Nothing. The 4 pin ECU used a 2 terminal ballasit.

 

[monroegtx]

I removed the two blues from the double plug in pic 1 and crimped them together to make a single plug. The blue and the brown I just removed from the double plug and put them into a single as well. The green wire with the red tracer is not used. You can cut and tape up, or do as I did and remove it totally from the harness and end plug. I filled up the plug hole with silicone to ensure no water gets into the orange box.

Before you start cutting anything just wait for some opinions from the other members here on this. I'm no expert and made the adjustments by looking at my old harness. Hopefully all is good but I don't want to give you a bum steer. :VB toast:

 

[70RR2GO]

Thanks, that's what I needed. Is your car running Monroe GTX?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

interesting the harness gout dual blue wire coming from harness tape... they tipically get just one blue wire and a jumper between both blue prongs on stock setups... If you think the harness should be a repro, that would make a "bad repro" lol

 

[clazar]

I've purchased a new M&H engine wiring harness for my 1970 roadrunner. The new harness was ordered with the electronic ign. harness upgrade that came with the hook ups for the 4 pin ballast. I'd like to keep the original look of the 2 pin ballast and i'm going to use the 4 pin electronic box. My question is, can anyone here tell me what to do with the wires on the M & H wiring harness?

See if you can exchange it. They used to make one for 2 pin ballast.
My car has electronic ignition with the 2 pin harness.

Chuck

 

[monroegtx]

Thanks, that's what I needed. Is your car running Monroe GTX?

It was running off the old harness via a push button start under the bonnet. I've literally only just completed this in the last couple of days and attached to dash loom. When I ordered the engine harness I wasn't familiar with the 4 pin and 5 pin set up, so I just went off the wires coming out of the plug. Afterwards I realised that one of the wires wasn't attached to anything and I should have purchased a 4 pin harness. I thought it would be quicker and easier just to remove the extra wire, than to send back overseas and exchange. All going well I will be starting it up via the key this weekend. That was one reason why I said to get some other opinions before you cut anything lol.

 

[70RR2GO]

I called m&h to see if they had a harness for the two pin, They had said they only have the one I got. So I asked them if they I could get the ends so I could change they my self. They said that they won't sell them to me and I'd have to go thru year one. I replied back and said I was hoping to hear "Thank you for supporting our products and we have great customer service and will be more than happy to sell or give you what you need." The dikk licker still wouldn't help me. Just a little heads up on there customer service.

 

[monroegtx]

That's weird. If I remember right, when I got mine through YO you had a choice between two looms. That's why I counted the wires on the plug before ordering.

 

[70RR2GO]

Monroe, the car originally came with the two prong and I had the point ignition. I've since put in the 4 pin electronic ignition and a six pack carb set up. on there product list, it doesn't give that option or explain that you'll have to change the ballast. So now I'll ask you guys, where can I get the terminals that I'll need?

 

[mopar 3 B]

If you have the 4 pin ECU just use the 2 connector resistor no extras needed. I am running 4 connector resistor, factory 5 pin ECU wire harnes and 4 pin ECU and works fine.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

bud, just cut the extras... actually you don't need to splice both blues into one terminal. That was I GUESS one idea coming from not cut and tape it to get it around without any use. Specially being a positive source from ign switch.

Anyway, those terminals should be available at any parts shop around. Is not a NASA piece ;)

You can also use that extra blue source to feed a carb choke, if electrical, or anything requiring a keyed source ( not big load ) requiered to any future add