Nothing wrong with original ignition. The Hemi in my 65 Dodge ran well with DP's,2 light springs and a cam plate that the light springs all the advance in at 1k rpm no vacuum adv.
MSD 6 Box, New Vs older
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That's what I was told....I asked the question...will they pay for the towing or should I leave the car on the road side until the repaired/new box is installed? They did not answer...my response was to eliminate all their stuff and go back to original Mopar ignition. BTW..what did Sox&Martin or Dick Landy use? I'll bet it was not Electronic stuff.....just a thought...
BOB RENTON
mmissile
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I'll get a picture, when I can. We had severe flooding, twice in the last 2 days. I'm busy with the basement and such...
lewtot184
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Pretty sure it was a transistor with a solid plate prestolite dual point.
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The esrly (years??) Mopar ignition "module" with the external fins, sort of in an X shape, was very rare, when electronics were in their infancy....not sure about the exact configuration, coil used, ballast resistor if any was used, but you are correct it was triggered by a points distributor (Prestolite??).....very expensive option......not many used or their failure rate. I could not find a pix in my archives to display......
BOB RENTON
lewtot184
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The old direct connection engine books have schematics and part numbers. It was a prestolite transistor box and distributor. There were two versions and I believe the first version was mid '60's stuff. They were probably replaced by the msd 404 box , just guessing. I have no idea what reliability was.
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Thanks for the information.....i'll dig a little deeper into the archives.....I'm just curious......
BOB RENTON
451Mopar
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Still running an old 1990's MSD 6-AL. It is triggered on the points input with a Mallory Unilight Distributor.
Several years ago I thought it failed at the track after cooling off the radiator. Ended up that the magnetic pickup harness that I taped up had gotten some water in there and was preventing the MSD from firing. Dried out the mag pickup socket and it has been running fine.
Several years ago I thought it failed at the track after cooling off the radiator. Ended up that the magnetic pickup harness that I taped up had gotten some water in there and was preventing the MSD from firing. Dried out the mag pickup socket and it has been running fine.
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icetech
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I always wanted one of those hyfire unites
mrhemi
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I have an older analog 6AL in my Charger. It has been there 20+ years trouble free. Now, I use the original Prestolite points to trigger it. The points last forever since they are not carrying much current. I also connect it so that should the MSD croak, it is a simple connector swap to be back on the points and on my way home. I have never had to do that yet though. I recently installed the same setup in my boat utilizing a Marine MSD (Marine units are still analog) triggered by the stock Prestolite distributor. I have a digital MSD 6A installed in my '94 Ford F150. It has been trouble free for the past 3 years. I used a pre-made adapter harness on it so that should the MSD fail, I can switch the harness back to the stock ignition easily. No problems yet with the digital MSD. Hope this helps a bit.
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This is definitely a Mallory unit, pre holley buyout. I swear it's ten pounds, and ateast 35 years old. It's a reman that I bought at a warehouse sale from Super Shops, if that tells you how long ago.
Bought a reman 250 gerotor pump at the same time, both still going strong.
Can't say anything about the holley versions, except they are Way overpriced, to get you to buy holley stuff.
Definately. Capacitors for points are a big one also high fail rate on the new parts store ones.
lewtot184
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How do you test a capacitor?
I have a capacitor tester but you can do it with a ohm meter for pass/fail. let me find a link.
lewtot184
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Reason I asked about testing the condenser is I installed a prestolite dual point in one of my cars yesterday and it won't fire. Like as if no power to the distributor. Re-installed electronic about an hour ago and it fires up. Hope I'm not hijacking here.
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I remember routinely changing points, and condenser, in the old days. You knew the new parts were better than the old , and the new condenser would last longer than the old one.
That's certainly no longer true. Points may be changed, but a functional old condenser is staying, and the old points are NOT getting thrown away!
That's certainly no longer true. Points may be changed, but a functional old condenser is staying, and the old points are NOT getting thrown away!
See if the condeser is shorted, easy check disconnect it if it fires got a bad one. DO NOT run it long you will burn the points up.
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