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My First build

Well I'm glad that I could provide a "first" for you guys. The Hugh's shop said it was a first for them also. They said that it actually looked like a factory fix to a boring bar mishap. I think the cost to bore and sleeve would be the same as a good core. They also said that it was a low stress and low heat area and that it would probably work but I am not going to start making compromises at stage one.
 
So I am waiting on the machine shop at this point. They where very clear on how long it would take so no worries yet. I was wondering if there would be any interest in the parts that I stripped off the block. The engine was a running motor home motor. It looked like a very recent rebuild. Pistons are .030 over. All internals are available and the heads. I don't want to ship and don't want to get rich! If you are a member here and can come get them off my bench you might get a heavy discount!
 
FINALLY !! I will have my block and stroker kit next week. I plan on checking the shops work the best I can. Suggestions on what to check would be great. Also the parts listed above are still on my bench, so come get them
Thanks
 
Hi everybody,
Got to work today and have a couple questions for you experts.
I measured each journal in two places 90 degs apart. Looks good to me. All clearances are also shown on pic, also seem good to me.
Tell me about the coating on these bearings it is very soft and as you can see marks where left when checking clearances. Is this something to worry about? Used a micrometer and dial bore gauge to measure.
The other concern is that when I screw main studs in finger tight as specified they bottom at different heights. Do I need to be concerned about this. Just doesn't look good to me

IMG_0163.JPG IMG_0164.JPG
 
Sorry about the chevy in the background
 
Usually it's a good idea to install the studs and then get it line honed to make up for any distortion. The extra stud height should be ok but make sure there is nothing in the bottom keeping the longer one out, it may have junk in it. Can't really see the bearings very well 2 really say. What are the bearings?...brand?...part no.?
 
Clearance looks fine if it was measured 90 degrees to the crank centerline. The number #1 & #3 main bores may be a touch snug by a few .000x". The marks in the coating are of no concern. If the crank rotates freely, and the journals mic close to standard I'd run it.
Doug
 
Clevite bearings. I can scratch coating easily with fingernail

IMG_0165.JPG IMG_0166.JPG
 
Doug
I saw in another thread that you like Fel-Pro "black" gaskets for the oil pan. Are you talking about the cork and rubber ones.
 
T
Green72 said:
Doug
I saw in another thread that you like Fel-Pro "black" gaskets for the oil pan. Are you talking about the cork and rubber ones.
Click to expand...
There is one reason to use gaskets. So you can get the components off. Ultra grey RTV sticks so well that you will bend stuff getting it off. For intakes and valve covers wher you ned gaskets, Superformance has nice stuff. Also add a little dab of RTV at the top of the head gaskets near the valley junction. It'll help seal the corners at the valley.
Doug
 
Green72 said:
You lost me:(. OP?
Click to expand...
OP stands for....Original poster..or You:)

Your about .580/.590 at the valves with 1.5 rockers so around 365- 375lb over the nose. That is a pretty common recommendation for spring pressure on a "big" solid. Usually the cam company recommends the spring...my guess...Hughes spring recommendation is likely from Howard's. I believe they are the cam supplier for Hughes. Wyrmrider is certainly up to speed on that. Probably can go to Howard's master lobe list and find more specs then what hughes advertises.. if you what to learn more about on you have.
 
I've never run a solid over about 140-145 on the seat. Careful break in with no inner springs would be my recommendation. With not a lot of idling ever.
Doug
 
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