My Low Deck 440 guys

[Burns69RT]

Got a 69 383 block im putting into my 69 runner, wanting build a low deck 440 and I know plenty of people who’ve done it but I’m debating that or the 438 stoker rotating assembly from 440 source. It’ll be 10.5.1 comp and eddy perf rpm heads with a eddy perf rpm dual plain and 800cfm Holley double pumper and a lunati voodoo cam .533/.552 lift opinions.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Why not go to 496?

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Put the 4.250 stroke kit in it unless you’re gonna drive it 50,000 miles.

 

[Burns69RT]

Put the 4.250 stroke kit in it unless you’re gonna drive it 50,000 miles.

50k + work horse it’s gonna be. And I’ve done multiple stoker builds that have done this but it’s low deck style stroker build on this type of test.

 

[cryplydog]

I think that 438 would make a dang good engine. I sure wouldn't use a double pumper except on the strip only, you'll wash that thing out running the street, just my thinkin' though. good luck, it will be a screamer!

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I like source kits, I’ve used several of them. Other than they all need pin fit there pretty good out of the box. I think it’ll work good as a combo of parts.

 

[Burns69RT]

I think that 438 would make a dang good engine. I sure wouldn't use a double pumper except on the strip only, you'll wash that thing out running the street, just my thinkin' though. good luck, it will be a screamer!

I’m running a 4-speed, so double pumper will be better than a vac sec

 

[Burns69RT]

I like source kits, I’ve used several of them. Other than they all need pin fit there pretty good out of the box. I think it’ll work good as a combo of parts.

Yeah I’ve used them too, just debating on their 438 kit

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Yeah I’ve used them too, just debating on their 438 kit

it wouldn’t be my choice of parts. I’d still use the 4.250 stroke. They work great in low decks. Building one right now. I also would buy TF heads over the Edelbrocks. Some 240’s with the right cam and you’ll have a bad *** street engine. But, my definition of street is probably different from yours.

 

[Burns69RT]

it wouldn’t be my choice of parts. I’d still use the 4.250 stroke. They work great in low decks. Building one right now. I also would buy TF heads over the Edelbrocks. Some 240’s with the right cam and you’ll have a bad *** street engine. But, my definition of street is probably different from yours.

View attachment 948555

Lol we may be on the same form of street engine, my daily is currently a 650whp 2009 Z06 corvette I built. Only reason is at the time I couldn’t afford a viper.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Lol we may be on the same form of street engine, my daily is currently a 650whp 2009 Z06 corvette I built. Only reason is at the time I couldn’t afford a viper.

that Edelbrock headed 438 will be disappointing compared to that Vette IMO.

 

[Burns69RT]

that Edelbrock headed 438 will be disappointing compared to that Vette IMO.

My vette is more of a road race car. I daily it right now cause I have to burn up that crappy California gas. And what do you think? I was looking at a solid 440 low deck. But total bore, where should I lean towards? How reliable is that bore? 4.32 bore 3.75 stroke?

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Well if you go with the source kit it has the same CD as the 496 kit. They are both 1.320. So it’ll be the same cd piston for either kit 438 or 496. Durability wise I’d say they will be very similar. Don’t see an advantage to the shorter stroke. If you go with someone else you may be able to get a taller cd piston thatll give you a bit more life. Honestly, the 1.320 cd doesn’t bother me. That’s what I have in my 400/511 street car. Been hammering it for sever years now and it still has great ring seal. Advantage to the 496 kit is you move to a Chevy rod, you can get the ultra light crank option. With the chev rods you knock some bob weight off. The ultra light crank and light bob weight is good for block life. The 400/470 kit is very popular for long life. Don’t see that stroke available for the 383. The RB blocks give the best option for tall cd pistons. Depends I guess on what you want.

 

[Burns69RT]

Well if you go with the source kit it has the same CD as the 496 kit. They are both 1.320. So it’ll be the same cd piston for either kit 438 or 496. Durability wise I’d say they will be very similar. Don’t see an advantage to the shorter stroke. If you go with someone else you may be able to get a taller cd piston thatll give you a bit more life. Honestly, the 1.320 cd doesn’t bother me. That’s what I have in my 400/511 street car. Been hammering it for sever years now and it still has great ring seal. Advantage to the 496 kit is you move to a Chevy rod, you can get the ultra light crank option. With the chev rods you knock some bob weight off. The ultra light crank and light bob weight is good for block life. The 400/470 kit is very popular for long life. Don’t see that stroke available for the 383. The RB blocks give the best option for tall cd pistons. Depends I guess on what you want.

I think I might go 496

 

[rmchrgr]

496" will see more friction for a given area because of a less desirable rod angle. It won't rev like the shorter stroke. The longer stroke causes the piston to have to travel faster to reach TDC & BDC than the shorter arm.

That's all just theory but they are things to consider and should factor into the rest of the build.

 

[Burns69RT]

496" will see more friction for a given area because of a less desirable rod angle. It won't rev like the shorter stroke. The longer stroke causes the piston to have to travel faster to reach TDC & BDC than the shorter arm.

That's all just theory but they are things to consider and should factor into the rest of the build.

I’m looking at that too. But for what I want. 496 might be my route

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

496" will see more friction for a given area because of a less desirable rod angle. It won't rev like the shorter stroke. The longer stroke causes the piston to have to travel faster to reach TDC & BDC than the shorter arm.

That's all just theory but they are things to consider and should factor into the rest of the build.

rod ratio isn’t any worse than a big block chevy. It’s also a lot easier on the valve train when you have an engine that can be shifted at 5800 instead of 6800. My 511 in the roadrunner is still standard port window. 5800-6 is about its sweet spot to shift. It’ll wind tighter but it doesn’t show up in the ET slip so no need to abuse it. It still traps mid 6’s. Max wedge ports will pull some more RPM out of them but, for a 3:54 gear street car I’d stay standard port 240’s. It’ll make brutal torque and that makes them absolutely a blast on the street.

 

[66Satellite47]

The longer stroke is the way to go. The shorter rod will work fine, especially if you are using a larger intake port head. The block can handle the increased rod angle.

 

[Todd489]

I have the 383/496 in my challenger, it's pushing around 600 horsepower and over 600 foot pounds of torque! I've had this setup for over 5 years now, and I'm not easy on it, I over revved it a couple of times it's been raced has been dynoed, the past year it has been smoking though, I did pull the engine and I thought it was the rings, but it wasn't it wound out being the valve seals, the bottom end was perfect, And I had put over 20,000 miles on it! Don't be afraid to use the 4.25 kit.

 

[Burns69RT]

I have the 383/496 in my challenger, it's pushing around 600 horsepower and over 600 foot pounds of torque! I've had this setup for over 5 years now, and I'm not easy on it, I over revved it a couple of times it's been raced has been dynoed, the past year it has been smoking though, I did pull the engine and I thought it was the rings, but it wasn't it wound out being the valve seals, the bottom end was perfect, And I had put over 20,000 miles on it! Don't be afraid to use the 4.25 kit.

Awesome, thanks man. I’ve just been back and forth but I’m going to go with the 496. What head/cam/intake/carb setup did you work with?