Need some help with exhaust manifold

[motime]

I'm going back to my original exhaust manifolds on my 70 coronet r/t with 440 magnum. My question is about the dampener on the right manifold. I feel the need to just eliminate it by removing the shaft and flap then just cast iron weld up the two holes the shaft goes through, bolt on and run it. Any thoughts on why I should not do this to my original manifold because then it's not original anymore or I should just rebuild the dampener so it works. Anybody else ever deal with this on their mopar? I know their seems to be a spring missing now and the other coil spring seems weak. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

 

[poly3521]

My opinion, if anything, take the plate out and leave the shaft in place. Less chance off a leak and can easily be undone.

 

[motime]

I like that poly and didn't think of it. That maybe the best alternative cause no harm would be done to it. Thanks.

 

[WileERobby]

It's called a heat riser. And in your neck of the woods, which is not tropical, consider your intended use of the vehicle first.

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

It's called a heat riser. And in your neck of the woods, which is not tropical, consider your intended use of the vehicle first.

If you have blocked the exhaust crossover in the inlet manifold, then the heat riser serves no purpose but to restrict exhaust flow, so removing it is a no-brainer.

I've always blocked the crossover thus always removed the heat riser in the past.

The question is how often do you drive in very cold weather?

 

[Lionized]

cap bolt and polish the runners.
The heat riser butterfly will do no good if you have any style aftermarket intake.

 

[MarPar]

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...-RH-440-exhaust-manifold&highlight=heat+riser

 

[motime]

I definitely don't drive it in any kind of extreme cold so I don't need any extra heat. I'm running the original intake manifold and the crossovers are not blocked yet but will be next time intake is removed. Cap bolt and polish the runners? Lionized do you mean tap the shaft holes with bolt thread and put bolts in them and also polish the inside of the manifolds with die grinder and sandpaper rolls? Please explain, not sure what you meant by that.

 

[RJRENTON]

Motime,
I agree with the other guys.....its a thetmostatically controlled valve that directs combustion gas under the carb and manifold floor to promote better fuel vaporization + it heats the divorced choke coil well for choke control. Is the device necessary? Yes and No. Will engine run without....yes. It may be a little problematic until the engine is warmed up. If you keep the shaft, counterweight, spring and anti rattle spring intact and just eliminate the valve disc, you will be OK. The engine may take a little longer to come off the choke (if you are using one) and may have a little stumble/gagging until warmed up. This is the way my GTX is set up and has been for years.....it looks stock but....
Cheers,
RJ RENTON

 

[dla4567]

My has the plate removed and the shaft is tack welded so as not to rattle, and it still looks original.

 

[motime]

Thanks everyone, I will keep the shaft and counterweight in place & just remove the flap. It will look original from the outside but with no exhaust restrictions. Gotta love that.

 

[Lionized]

I don't recommend doing it exactly how this guy does. Most of the material you see him dumping out is the abrasive. I would certainly use some cutting fluid/lubricant to help prolong the abrasive quality as well as, possibly, a smoother finished product.


https://youtu.be/IINbY77R4hM

 

[markrr]

I removed the parts and welded the holes on my manifold years ago and have not had any problems.

 

[dieseldazzle]

My has the plate removed and the shaft is NOT tack welded and rattles like a son of a gun, and it still looks original.

 

[motime]

Ya lionized I can sure see the benefits of polishing inside of exhaust manifolds but I'm not going that route at this time. Thanks for the video though. Dieseldazzle, I'm not sure how you could successfully tack weld a steel shaft to a cast iron manifold and have that weld hold long term. I'm going to tighten the shaft in the bore another way, not sure which way yet but sure don't want any rattling.

 

[kiwigtx]

There is another way to carry out a fix to hold an rattling or non-necessary riser butterfly.
Weld a small piece of steel rod 'through' the spring attached to the spring fixings at either end. (As shown in yellow on the picture provided by Marpar on the link provided above)



I had this fix done 15 years ago, had the entire manifold coated, and you cannot see the modification without really getting up close - which is near impossible when fitted in the car. The welded rod is easily removed if ever required, and does not damage any of the working parts of the heat riser. :icon_thumright:

 

[440+6]

My heat riser was sloppy and missing the spring, so I removed everything welded the holes shut and have never had a problem. I'm running a stock six pack with the divorced choke and the crossovers open on the pan.
I Drive the car in cold weather sometimes in the winter and have never noticed any problem and choke works as it should.
I do like the idea of removing the flapper only though, that way it looks stock.

 

[motime]

Now that's pretty cool kiwigtx, It would work perfect for what I'm doing. Beautiful looking manifold by the way.