New 440 problem - help please!

[wyrmrider]

just my two cents here
check the cam base circle and see if it's stock and report
if it is undersized you need longer pushrods
If you do preload your lifters turn the motor over REAL SLOW to let them bleed down. Firing up when fully extended and solid can bend things
if you are running lots of lift you can correct the geometry with lash caps (tilt the rocker up a little so the motion is not all down from stock)

 

[ChuckToo]

Ok all.... here's my issue (and oddly) also my first post.

1978 440 block with forged crank, internally balanced, stock rods with ARP bolts, KB pistons set at 40 thou deck height, block bored 30 over, crank ground 10 thou under, iron heads (516) with new valves and Hughes springs, mild porting, 3 angle valve job, stock rockers and shafts, Comp cams 21-223-4 (.477 int, .480 exh), high pressure melling pump, 6 quart pan with windage tray, performer rpm intake, 650 quick fuel dp carb.

Now for the problem...

Motor break in was a little iffy as there were some ignition issues, but after sorted, motor was run up with Brad Penn 30wt break in oil (1800-2700rpm varying) until ignition caused a shut down at about 20 minutes. Hopefully this was enough for the cam, but I have doubts. Now running Valvoline 10w-30 valvoline racing oil. Gentle running, varying engine rpm, not exceeding 4000 rpm for about 850-900 miles. Leaned on it fairly hard yesterday (4500-5000 and pretty much floored) and afterward, EVERY LIFTER was clattering loudly for quite some time. Engine temp went up from it's normal cold running temp to a little higher range, but still nowhere near to overheating. When starting from cold now, just about every lifter clatters it seems, and throttle response is instantaneous. Becomes slightly quieter as rpms increase, oil pressure is fine @65-70 cold, no signs of metallic crap in oil from dipstick.

What in the hell did I do???? Is this going to be a total tear down to replace cam, lifters, bearings, etc????

 

[ChuckToo]

This sounds identical to what I did the first time I changed a cam in a long time. On the drivers side remove your last 4 intake and exhaust rocker arms and pushrods. Use a view scope and look at your cam lobes. If all you used was regular or synthetic oil then they have been shaved. After you disassemble your engine to get out all the metal use diesel oil for Diesel engines. Plenty of zinc in that oil. If you did not drive to far or run it too long you might be able to flush it out by removing as many parts as you can and then get a 4 quart oil pressure canister to flush several times. Me, well I said screw it and bought a 528 Max Wedge short block from Indy. You can buy a scope on eBay for your smart phone for under $30 and it works fantastic.