Don't know if I missed in the thread, how's things on the job front?
New motor is finally here!
- Thread starter 1967coronet440
- Start date
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
Got a letter of recommendation from brother in law for the piledrivers/welders Union, no call yet. Just sent my resume to Schneider trucking today, they’re looking for a shop manager at their Chicago facility and that’s right up my alley that’s what I’ve done for the last 10 years! Hopefully one of them call soon, thanks for asking
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
I will, winter around the corner doubt I’ll get track times this year though
Those cragars are heavy! I had Weld Street Lites on my car and I switched to Torque Thrusts to look period correct. The T-Thrusts were 4lbs more, each for the fronts (15X4's) and 5lbs more, each for the rears (15X10's). I went up almost 20lbs with the switch.
Last edited:
Hey Wookie, did you find and get that 200lbs out of your car yet?
silver67
Well-Known Member
It's a struggle to swap them.
The body looks like hell, so i keep them as they're as shiny as it gets
When i first weighed my car it was 4,008.....i just about cried
I picked up an aluminum block to help.
But with the B1 heads the engine is just so damn tall!!
I mocked it up tonight..
Doesn't look like that hood will close even without an air cleaner. What's the plan for that or is there a scoop on the hood now?
Here's what I'm dealing with.
RB block / Victor heads / Super Victor intake, 1/2" wood spacer, dominator and flat base plate.
I'm installing an engine plate and that will give me 3/8" more space but I'd like the option to run an air filter as well. The gravel and crap that blows across my regular track at times will wear out an engine in no time.
silver67
Well-Known Member
Oh dear, we've got the same problem.
I bought the block and heads as a package. I've already thought of selling the tall deck and getting a low deck to help.
Otherwise
'67 cars look like crap with most any scoop beside the RO/WO ones.
I still want to cruise on the street here and there
I bought the block and heads as a package. I've already thought of selling the tall deck and getting a low deck to help.
Otherwise
'67 cars look like crap with most any scoop beside the RO/WO ones.
I still want to cruise on the street here and there
I was running a 5" Hemi scoop this year on a steel hood. I didn't want to drill the hood for pins so was just using the latch. I almost lost the entire hood.. The inner structure that the latch attaches to ripped open and pulled away from the skin. I could stick my hand between the 2. Will be able to fix it up without effecting the paint so that's good. That 5" scoop catches A LOT of wind on the big end.. Got a fibreglass project on the go now.
Good luck on the direction that you go and it will look good when you're done, that's for sure.
Challenger340
Well-Known Member
Are you going to Dyno the Engine prior to installing ?
What I am getting at is this.... it PAYS to DYNO !
because as the power in an Engine goes up, so does the potential for it to seriously harm itself ? if then something, for whatever reason, ain't quite right ?
Not to mention of course, the invaluable tuning aspects to longevity ?
just say'in....
Very nice Engine/combo you have there !
and it obviously represents a very substantial financial investment.
THAT would never be allowed to leave our Shop without being Dyno'd in the Customer's presence.... to the Customer's satisfaction..... BEFORE it ever left ! It's our only opportunity to prove our work, so nothing leaves until proven, or we do NOT build it in the first place !
I fully believe... no... I KNOW.... that we still see Big Wedges @ 850hp we built 15-18 years ago, come back for "refreshening" every few years, still in one piece for that reason.
Here's one we built back in the '95, refreshened & Dyno'd again in 2010 before MATS, since retired in 2014 after literally thousands of hits !(but still in one piece with no issues)
540 Wedge, Ported INDY "SR" Heads.
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
If the funds and the opportunity present itself before installation I will, but I’m getting close and I want it in the car and running before winter, we’ll see.
Challenger340
Well-Known Member
IMO, A Dyno Session is the cheapest investment you will ever make, if for no other reason than piece of mind, comparative to the money already spent ?
BTW,
NICE ENGINE !
BTW,
NICE ENGINE !
A leaking rear main seal showed up during my dyno session. I did the session with it dribbling and got my numbers but once home it went on the stand, upside down and fixed up.
To me a properly built motor doesn't need dyno time. Testing different cams, heads, then yes. Also lots of places to remove weight. My 64 is 3145lbs w/o driver. That's with a 270lb Mega block, 2 batteries, 2 fans, 2 carbs, fire system, all steel including bumpers except hood, full interior except rear seat, old school Americans, Dana 60.
Doug
Doug
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
so how do those hold up? ever have any leaks? assuming all good since ur going to use them again. I got a pair w/ a manifold I bought, too lazy to try them since I`m not having a problem w/ the cheapys.
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
reminds me of one of Jim Hales old cars !
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
Thanks Doug, glad you chimed in
Similar threads
