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New motor is finally here!

dvw said:
To me a properly built motor doesn't need dyno time. Testing different cams, heads, then yes. Also lots of places to remove weight. My 64 is 3145lbs w/o driver. That's with a 270lb Mega block, 2 batteries, 2 fans, 2 carbs, fire system, all steel including bumpers except hood, full interior except rear seat, old school Americans, Dana 60.
Doug

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I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE MOPAR ORANGE COLOR SCHEME OF YOUR MOTOR....WOW,,,GREAT JOB
 
For me the dyno session was well worth it. I planned and built my own engine and my combination and lots of the parts I chose came from research and advise from knowledgable guys right here on this site. Also being new to drag racing there has been lots to learn. Regarding dyno time though, unless I was building something altogether different next time around I wouldn't be booking dyno time again.
 
If you have the funds...I believe dyno time is a great tool.....especially with a new combo. Also, base-line tuning, finding leaks, other small issues, or a major issue....is easier on the dyno than in the car. Once it's in the car, it'll either run the number....or not.
 
dvw said:
To me a properly built motor doesn't need dyno time. Testing different cams, heads, then yes. Also lots of places to remove weight. My 64 is 3145lbs w/o driver. That's with a 270lb Mega block, 2 batteries, 2 fans, 2 carbs, fire system, all steel including bumpers except hood, full interior except rear seat, old school Americans, Dana 60.
Doug

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Doug,
How did ya get the mega block to 270 ?
 
I can only wish, it's iron. The mounts milled off, bored to 4.500", lifter valley/deck has had the Hemi material removed. Other than that is appears untouched. it is a later Mopar block with the ribbed lifter valley as well.
Doug

E1.jpg E3.jpg
 
I won’t split it guys. I promise. Took a look at the cam. Looks good.
Also put the spool in.
Now to strip 200 pounds out of the car. Simple solution is to let my wife drive. There is a 100 + pounds easy :D

AFDA493F-079E-4091-BA09-C492FD0B078E.jpeg AAD676E8-A10F-4BCA-AD11-8B4E36725006.jpeg 22AB14DD-2200-401A-8BD6-3BC7C51417C2.jpeg 04F88746-9BB5-4AAC-A246-2763E71416DB.jpeg
 
dvw said:
To me a properly built motor doesn't need dyno time. Testing different cams, heads, then yes. Also lots of places to remove weight. My 64 is 3145lbs w/o driver. That's with a 270lb Mega block, 2 batteries, 2 fans, 2 carbs, fire system, all steel including bumpers except hood, full interior except rear seat, old school Americans, Dana 60.
Doug

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Yeah, I guess on a "properly" built motor a guy can most certainly just:
* JET it until it quits mph'ing at the track ? that very obviously works !
* shut down thru the traps & tow back to read plugs accurately ? IMO, best way to read.
* and if there's a rear main leak just pull it back out of the car to fix ? No offense to being properly built, but it does happen occasionally.
* "Guess" on the timing ? safe is safe.
But just last week I witnessed one degree of timing make 14 hp difference ! (8 hp average in the curve !) Which after 35 years I NEVER would have believed it before last week, went back and forth 3 times on that one.... THERE it was ! But no matter, because granted here, 14 hp ain't going to amount to a hill 'O beans on E.T. anyways when bracket racing.

I Sincerely hope I haven't jinxed any outcomes by mentioning a Dyno session, just say'in.... for me it's one of the cheapest items on the list, in what are substantial investments we make in Engines at this level.
NICE ENGINE !
 
Challenger340 said:
Yeah, I guess on a "properly" built motor a guy can most certainly just:
* JET it until it quits mph'ing at the track ? that very obviously works !
* shut down thru the traps & tow back to read plugs accurately ? IMO, best way to read.
* and if there's a rear main leak just pull it back out of the car to fix ? No offense to being properly built, but it does happen occasionally.
* "Guess" on the timing ? safe is safe.
But just last week I witnessed one degree of timing make 14 hp difference ! (8 hp average in the curve !) Which after 35 years I NEVER would have believed it before last week, went back and forth 3 times on that one.... THERE it was ! But no matter, because granted here, 14 hp ain't going to amount to a hill 'O beans on E.T. anyways when bracket racing.

I Sincerely hope I haven't jinxed any outcomes by mentioning a Dyno session, just say'in.... for me it's one of the cheapest items on the list, in what are substantial investments we make in Engines at this level.
NICE ENGINE !
Click to expand...
If your an engine assembler and not an engine builder then the dyno may make you feel better. If the rear main seal retainer/or main cap hold the seal in the correct position, it won't leak. That's why you check it during the build. If you can't trust yourself to install a main seal how can you trust yourself torquing rod, main, and head bolts? Start conservative on the timing. It's not like nobody has ever built these combinations. The info is available on where to start. There isn't going to be a 8 degree swing. Same with jetting, show me a carb that need 8 jets sizes. Just because it shows power on the dyno doesn't mean it'll be quicker. Just had a well known builder suggest 39 degrees on -1 Indy head motor he had built for a friend. I asked why that head design would need that much. He had no clear cut answer except on the dyno it was better. It certainly wasn't better in the car. Not only was it not quicker, it kicked back broke the converter ring gear and the starter nose when it was tried. Most engines w/o crank trigger have the timing moving around so much you would have a hard time seeing 1 degree. I'm not saying there is no reason to dyno. But for the majority of builds it's an added $500 or so that most of us could spend elsewhere. The key is to educate yourself on proper building techniques or find someone who knows. Just my 2 cents from a cheap home build guy.
Doug
 
We Machine EVERYTHING ourselves in house, and we then ASSEMBLE everything we machine in house, and then we DYNO everything we assemble.... NO exceptions !
From bushing Lifter Bores to Boring/Honing W/T Plate, Block Squaring/Milling, Line Boring(main caps) to Line Honing, Heads/Porting/Flowing/Balancing/Rods... we do it all in house, because we HAVE TO ... very simply.... to get what WE want ?

We Dyno for 2 reasons:
* we want to PROVE our work before it leaves, in the customers presence, to their satisfaction and make sure of NO issues.
* Get the Engine to optimum... and best SAFE efficiency for the Customer.

I am of the opinion that the "averages" on a power curve can be directly proportional to enhanced E.T. gains ?
I mean it is an Elapsed Time within which those Dyno sought after greater "averages" are then applied,
notwithstanding,
whether or not other factors related to IF the Car/Combo can then accept/apply those enhanced averages, garnered on the Dyno to lower times ? another story...
We've seen Comp Eliminator/quick 16 stuff where NO.... the Car simply could NOT transfer the enhanced averages to E.T., it went slower, but it was the Car/suspension being overpowered to lose 60ft = slower ET on the still higher mph.

You are right about the high cost, but it's more like $1,200/day base average for us(lucky to be there).

But similarly in this industry, if a guy can still call it that LOL ?
WHY is .050" or less still being held as the "optimum" quench distance by Engine builders, and Engine "assemblers" alike ?
I mean it is pretty much "accepted" as LAW these days ? is it not ? Has been for awhile ?

Amazing to me,(and admittedly here I must be getting too old),
is that in this day and age many people/builders/assemblers still "accept" that ONE dimension(.050" Quench), across ALL Bore Sizes from 4.00" to 4.600", across ALL Dome & Chamber characteristics, across ALL Ferd/Chub/Mopar Brands, across ALL Cam events from IR to staggered ramps, across ALL Intake/Exhaust scavenging...... as being the most conducive to best overall engine efficiency across ALL applications ?

In my opinion only,
the INDY/Zeeker 440-1 Head does not react the same as the 600-13, nor the Victor, nor the Predators..... to the same Dome setup, "quench" distance, nor in Total Timing. I will leave any discussions therein around context of "properly" built Engines requirements for each application for Dyno testing.
 
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One reason I’m not worried about dynoing this set up is when I dropped off my block and list of parts I wanted, he called me back and said hey why don’t we go this route, I’ve built it before and I know it works. It was within the power range I was looking for so I told him go for it, he’s the professional, not me, he’s done it numerous times and knows what he’s talking about. Therefore I don’t feel it is an absolute need to put it on the dyno, if I had access to one like you do of course I would dyno every Motor, but I don’t. at this syage in my build, frankly dyno Time isn’t in my budget. That being said if anyone would like donate me some cash to throw it on a dyno, I will happily send you my PayPal info.

Thanks

Bo
 
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