No oil pressure

[Frankb]

Engine is 400/512 built by professional and run/tuned on dyno. No issues. Things got behind schedule and engine has been sitting for just under two years. Finally ready to go so I figured to spin the engine over with starter to build up some oil pressure. Spark plugs removed for this. Installed known good mechanical gauge and spun engine over. No pressure. The longest spin was about 45 seconds. Maybe the third or fourth attempt. Stopped at this point.
I know the correct procedure is to remove dist and spin oil pump with a drill. My issue is everything was set to correct tolerance/performance for the engine to run its best from dyno runs. I want to make certain that when the dist is reinstalled everything will be as it was. It seems like a simple procedure but I've never done this before and simple has a habit of turning into not so simple more often than not. Looking for advise on things to "look out for" and "things not to do". Also distributor is a Holley Hyperspark. I don't know if this makes any difference or not compared to a standard distributor. I'm not an engine builder. Thanks.

 

[khryslerkid]

Sitting, the pump is more than likely dry. You need to have oil in the pump to create any pressure. Turning the engine with the starter is too slow for a dry pump to pull any oil. The drill method can take a bit to build up pressure but much faster than doing it with the starter.

You could remove the oil filter and add some oil in there, re install and maybe get a prime started.

 

[R413]

What not to do? You already did It. Spin it over with the starter to build oil pressure is not good for your new engine.

Turn it to #1 compression stroke TDC, mark the distributor and rotor, remove it and the drive gear, spin the oil pump CC direction with a strong drill.

 

[Moparnocar]

What not to do? You already did It. Spin it over with the starter to build oil pressure is not good for your new engine.

Turn it to #1 compression stroke TDC, mark the distributor and rotor, remove it and the drive gear, spin the oil pump CC direction with a strong drill.

And careful, when pressure builds, the drill will buck real hard

 

[Frankb]

OK so I got the oil pump drive gear out and was able to rotate the oil pump with a drill. Got 75 PSI. So if I put everything back the way it was am I good? I read that the crank should be rotated during this process. If the crank is rotated while running the drill how do I ensure that everything is timed back up properly after crank rotation? So far I have not disturbed the position of the crank. Engine was at TDC prior to start of this procedure. Now that the pump is primed and oil has moved through the engine is it OK to use starter instead of drill??

 

[Fran Blacker]

What R413 said. One addition put piece of tape on base of distributor to the block. Cut the tape at seam dist and block. One stays with dist other on block. You don't need to reset timing. As R413 said know the position which rotor and slot of oil pump drive gear are in.

 

[Frankb]

I did that but I want to rotate crank while spinning the oil pump. If after crank rotation the engine is put back at TDC (on compression stroke) then just put the oil pump drive shaft back in the same position before it was removed. Then it should be good right?

 

[dvw]

Unless you used your personal ignition box on the dyno, the timing needs to be checked regardless. The box itself can alter the timing.
Doug

 

[Fran Blacker]

I'd first get oil pressure then rotate engine. If they changed oil filter and only partly filled new one pump maybe dry. Left oil filter off for an hour or so doing an oil change, no oil pressure. Had to pull pump.

 

[diesel_lv]

OK so I got the oil pump drive gear out and was able to rotate the oil pump with a drill. Got 75 PSI. So if I put everything back the way it was am I good? I read that the crank should be rotated during this process. If the crank is rotated while running the drill how do I ensure that everything is timed back up properly after crank rotation? So far I have not disturbed the position of the crank. Engine was at TDC prior to start of this procedure. Now that the pump is primed and oil has moved through the engine is it OK to use starter instead of drill??

You now have oil pressure and pump is primed. Yes, you can now go ahead and reinstall drive gear and distributor. Keep plugs removed and crank engine a few times. This will lube rest of engine. Then, install plugs n start.

 

[R413]

A better idea is to prime with the drill while turning over the engine by hand. This cranking with the starter for oil pressure is not the way to go on an expensive engine.

I don’t even do it on a 55 year old 273.

the drill gets you instant oil pressure and more of it.

 

[Frankb]

OK everything is back together. I rotated the engine by hand while simultaneously rotating oil pump with drill. Did this for about two minutes (6 rotations). Rotation felt smoother towards the end of this process. Engine was at TDC on compression stroke when finished. Could not get oil pump drive gear reinstalled. Had to reposition the oil pump to get drive gear installed. Once it was clocked right gear just slid into place easy. Thank you for all your input. I knew the procedure just never did it before and **** happens. I was leery of taking apart something that was assembled, tested, and worked properly.
Frank

 

[steve340]

I am not a big fan of grinding the engine over on the starter to try and get some oil pressure.
The camshaft and lifters stay totally dry during this operation.
By all accounts a new cam can be damaged doing this.
Gives the starter motor hell as well all that cranking.