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OPINIONS ON GARAGE INSULATION???

I also wired in 3 separate 220 volt welder outlets and a separate 220 volt compressor feed. You might also consider wiring in a feed for heat and A/C.
 
I also wired in 3 separate 220 volt welder outlets and a separate 220 volt compressor feed. You might also consider wiring in a feed for heat and A/C.
My 12,000 BTU mini split system is 220 volts.
Mike
 
I think 8stack pretty much answered that question in post #9. No such thing as too much wiring. Looking good.
I'm fiberglass bat fan myself for the reasons stated above. My shop is R19 in the walls and R60 in the ceiling. I'm in Colorado where it get's to 100 degrees in the summer and 10 below in the winter.
The shop stays a nice 70 degrees in the summer with the doors closed. I keep the stats set at 55 in the winter when I'm not working out there and the heat rarely kicks on even on the coldest days.
The vaulted ceilings do present a bit of a twist. Perhaps a layer of bats then blow in on top of that?
I'm thinking R38 or 40 in the ceiling just leaves enough space of about 1-1/2" of air space above & between the insulation & radiant roof sheathing to vent out the ridge vents.

I WONDER, should i use a vapor barrier on walls & vaulted ceiling inside, even though the winters are typically very mild & above 30 degrees, BUT summers can be sooooo intensely hot & humid!!!!!
 
You might consider interior weight white steel for the ceiling finish. It really helps reflect the light.
Mike
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I also wired in 3 separate 220 volt welder outlets and a separate 220 volt compressor feed. You might also consider wiring in a feed for heat and A/C.
Got it....got two (2) 220v outlets high on two walls (side & back) for 2 lifts (hopefully!), one 220v for welder & one 220v for my table saw which i will i'll store in a corner when not using it. Also, added a 230v for a Mr Cool 24K mini-split AC/heat system on the back wall, which i'm going to add later on.
 
You might consider interior weight white steel for the ceiling finish. It really helps reflect the light.
Mike
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I;m planning on Hardie Board T1-11 4x9 vertical sheets (white) on the walls & ceiling for more light & a little different look. Gonna try UFO LED round lites (6 of them) on the vaulted ceilings. Ordered those from Amazon
 
I like Fiberglass batts. Can be installed easily by yourself. All you need is a staple gun.
 
I'm thinking R38 or 40 in the ceiling just leaves enough space of about 1-1/2" of air space above & between the insulation & radiant roof sheathing to vent out the ridge vents.

I WONDER, should i use a vapor barrier on walls & vaulted ceiling inside, even though the winters are typically very mild & above 30 degrees, BUT summers can be sooooo intensely hot & humid!!!!!
I would consult someone in your area. We have plenty of insulation companies in this area, but our climate is substantially different. I went with R-19 bat insulation on my walls covered with a poly vapor barrier and OSB sheeting inside.
 
I keep forgetting what I have done. I also have 4 ceiling fans wired in on two separate controllers. They really move the air around and in my opinion make it fore efficient both heat and cooling wise. My shop is 36 x 42 12 foot walls with a 10 x 12 office. All with textured finished drywall.
 
I keep forgetting what I have done. I also have 4 ceiling fans wired in on two separate controllers. They really move the air around and in my opinion make it fore efficient both heat and cooling wise. My shop is 36 x 42 12 foot walls with a 10 x 12 office. All with textured finished drywall.
Fans are a great idea to move cool & heated air around. Somehow, i forgot about all that!
 
also have 4 ceiling fans wired in on two separate controllers. They really move the air around and in my opinion make it fore efficient both heat and cooling wise
With my vaulted ceilings, i'm thinking maybe rotating fans @ the tops of the walls 10' high or so? I'll dig into that a little more.
 
With my vaulted ceilings, i'm thinking maybe rotating fans @ the tops of the walls 10' high or so? I'll dig into that a little more.
You most likely can put them at the peak. There are so many different drops and width. As long as the blades do not hit the ceiling you should be good. In my shop it makes such a difference that I know right away when one set might be off by accident.
 
i’m a spray foam fan , closed cell ! critter proof , insulates excellent. either pre wire or go surface mount wire as mentioned. if your walls are 2x6” 3-4 inch’s is plenty of r value in a garage wall maybe little more in roof joists….and i was told no moisture issues as there is no air in between roof sheeting and insulation….
 
My next major step in our ‘36 x 48’ is faced roll insulation. Easy installation, can do it ourselves and far less expensive than spray foam in our area. It also makes servicing/reworking electrical that much less of a hassle.
But folks who have chosen the spray foam route I don’t typically hear complain either.
 
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I did r19 & R38 in mine. I’m happy with it. Still need to finish the walls. I heat it all winter long and I cool it when it’s hot out.

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Use a staple gun to keep the poly in place. Lots of little holes!
 
Thanks! Do you mean, put the batts in, THEN WRAP with the polyethylene sheeting on the inside, stapling to the studs?? Then put the 1/2" Thermax on top of that? I'm planning on using Hardie Board T1-11 vertical panels on walls & vaulted ceiling, instead of drywall to give it a little pizzaz. Hope i'm not making a mistake there.
Wrap the outside with Tyvek. It's better than plastic in that it will breath while still doing the job. I like bat insulation better than foam for the same reasons already mentioned, Wiring , plumbing etc. Here's a short explanation of Tyvek from their website.

DuPont™ Tyvek® HomeWrap® is the original house wrap, incorporating unique material science that helps keep air and water out, while letting water vapor escape. As a result, it can contribute to improved building durability by helping to protect homes against damaging wind and rain that can penetrate the exterior cladding. Tyvek® HomeWrap® can also reduce home energy bills by controlling air flow and water intrusion, which helps insulation work better, allowing the HVAC system to work more efficiently. It’s a house wrap engineered to keep homes cool in the summer, warm in the winter, and dry all year round.
 
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