Mike, how big is your shop? I ask cuz mine is about 24x30 & I'm gonna order a 24k mini-split for it. I see you use a 12k & if that's good enough, i'll switch choices. Maybe i listened to too good of a salesman?
OPINIONS ON GARAGE INSULATION???
- Thread starter 8stackhemi
- Start date
I chose a 12,000 mini to just dehumidify the air. The shop rarely gets warmer than 72*. The conditioned space is about 35'x68'x10' or 23,800 cu ft. The North-South building is 144' long. The East-West building is 78' long now that I added a full width lean to on the East end (not shown). I probably use the mini for maybe 2 weeks per year but, it seems to get longer each year as it gets warmer each summer.
You know my motto: A man can't have too many pole barns!
Mike
Mike
Yowzers!!!
spray foam 100% 1.50 sq ft, for 1" around here will pay for itself.
Coronet_Arch
Well-Known Member
Vapor barrier placement is based on climate. "Vapor barriers are usually best installed on the side of the wall that experiences the hotter temperature and moister conditions: the inner surface in colder climates and the outer surface in hot, humid climates."
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
This is what happens when your HVAC buddy needs an engine built! Lol
Ahhhh YES!!!!!!!
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
I like the closed cell spray foam. I have an exterior mounted heat a/c unit and keep it at 70 year round. Works awesome.
Oh boy, this is killing me!! That floor....that floor.....it's bootiful!!! How did you do that?? THAT will be my final chore to complete BEFORE my cars can come in. Love it! Scott
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
Haha, thanks. I ground the entire floor with a diamabrush and angle grinder. The material was from Legacy.
Off white primer. "super hide white" Epoxy and then "super hide white" urethane.
Off white primer. "super hide white" Epoxy and then "super hide white" urethane.
Gorgeous! I see that beautiful charger up in the air, too. I've been following all you've been doing on it. The love for that car is clear!!!
bdk1976
New Member
If you are budget minded (read: cheap) like me, see if there is a local door manufacturer that has insulated cut outs for the taking. I insulated most of my LARGE shop with this stuff - they even loaded down my car trailer with several pallets of this stuff at a time and were thrilled to get rid of it. I'm pretty sure if nobody picks this stuff up they have to pay to get rid of it. I packed the walls of my pole barn with this stuff 3x deep. It's about R6 per layer.
Butch Harley
Well-Known Member
SLAB insulation is important I put 2 layers 6 mil poly 1 on dirt 2 over stone grade and 2"x16"x8' rigid poly laid around the perimeter
WOW, wish i would have done that!!!!!
In my 40x30x12 I put fiberglass in the sidewalls and I also put white roofing tin in for a ceiling and blew about 8" of cellulose on top of the ceiling. It's easy to heat and cool. I have a 50,000 btu Big Maxx heater that works great and I mounted a 12,000 btu window air cond in the wall and it works great too. I've had it down to 75 when it was 100 outside and it doesn't run that much. Once you get the humidity down inside it doesn't take much to keep it cool.
Makes sense. HUMIDITY down here is HUGE & STiCKY, typically from June through early September.
Bill M
Well-Known Member
a fire retardant paint can be sprayed over the foam.
Foam is the way to go if it is in the budget. Seals the cracks
Thrashingcows
Well-Known Member
I live in Northern Canada and when I built my shop I went with the highest R-value I could get for fiberglass in the walls which was R28 and then blow in insulation in the ceiling of R52. We get temperatures down into the -40's*C so need as much insulation as we can get. I have a small wood stove for heating and on the coldest days it will keep the shop at about 10*C, but the 14' ceiling doess cause some issues with heating due to the large volume.
I PM'd you a question. Hope that's ok!
Too bad you didn't radiant tube the floor. Minimal insulation is all that's necessary and there is no more efficient heating method.
Mike
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