Paint guns

[The not so tall man]

Whats a good gravity feed HVLP gun.

I need one for both primer and paint.

I used to use a SATA Jet B nr92.

My boss used to use an accuspray. (non gravity)

I got to admit I was impressed with the accuspray back then, it was around 1995-96.

 

[5wndwcpe]

For clear I like the Iwata LPH 400

http://anestiwata.com/product/lph400-lv/

For primers and basecoat, the DeVilbiss Finishline is a reasonable cost option.

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products/finishline/flg-4-gravity-feed-spray-gun.aspx

or step up to a Tekna

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products/tekna/tekna-copper-premium-spray-guns.aspx

 

[hemi#1]

I have different spray guns. my primer gun is made by 3M it's a plastic body with disposable tips and liners for holding paint. it's about $260 for the gun plus the liners and tips. clean up is easy pull the tip off and wipe off the needle and your done. big 1.8 tip good for 2k primers or slick sand sprayable body filler. my b/c c/c is a De Vilbiss Tekna pro lite. max air pressure is 26#'s both guns have a regulator at the gun the Tekna pro is Teflon coated inside and out so clean up is also good but is a little more work than the 3M gun. check my threads I painted my 65 satellite in gold poly with these 2 guns.

 

[The not so tall man]

Man think have come a long way since I used went from a bins model 7 to my Sata until now.

I started looking at Tekna guns on Amazon, I see listing for ones with different "Air Caps" What are the air caps and why the different ones?

Is it like needle size for primers/top coats?

 

[hemi#1]

my tekna pro came with 3 different size tips it's lite weight and has a great spray pattern. clean up is great. my 3M gun is for primers and they have larger disposable tips like a 2.0 to spray heavy primers I've used hvlp since @ 1980 and still have my early guns. the amount of paint you use is @ 1/3 of the old style guns

 

[eric383]

I also use the Iwata LPH400. It's not quite as fast as a Sata or Binks but I don't do production work. i have a Finex primer gun and various low price guns. I also have an Iwata detail gun. Good luck.

 

[Seventy]

I think it depends on what you want to spend, develbiss starting line kits for $140 (2 guns) will get the job done. I have a pair of tekna pro lite for base and clears and use a finish line for primer, for the polyester primers I use some old finish lines I have, 2.0 all the way up to 3.0 lol I buy the guns on ebay when I see them cheap, finish lines are really nice for the money.. I have done some pretty nice paint jobs with them guns that are still around and looking good. I love going to a car show and seeing one of my old cars still shining like a new penny...

I think you may need a half dozen guns, now, lol. a decent kupz gun that can spray bellies and jamb well (used to use pressurized, but thats too much work now), I nice spot gun and a nice small cup gun, then a good high build primer gun, a good normal primer gun, a decent base coat gun, and a really nice clear gun.. Maybe even another gun for POR15 products (that stuff sucks to clean clear, I have another old finish line just for that)...

I always tell guys, start with a finish line kit, when you get more serious, use that for primer only and get better clear/base gun, then again when you step up, get a nice clear only gun...

 

[eric383]

X2 Seventy. The more you paint the more guns you acquire. It all depends on your budget.

 

[Seventy]

X2 Seventy. The more you paint the more guns you acquire. It all depends on your budget.

Yup, and if you are painting one car, just borrow a gun from someone.
Or better yet put an add on c-list to pay someone a couple hundred bucks to shoot your car, there are guys out there that work at body shops all day and for $200 they will come to your house, with their gun and squirt your car better than you could imagine of doing it yourself. More important than how much the gun costs or great the gun is, is how much experience the guy working the trigger has...

 

[The not so tall man]

Still following, Thanks for the impute. I just thought of something that hadn't occurred to me.

What type of guns would be able to spray the under carriage?

Would the Tekna pro liites be able to? And is there any advantage to the disposable cups if you keep you gun clean?

Right now I am looking for guns to put the car in epoxy, most likely the dp90lf, and then some places just seal then base clear like the interior and exterior of the floor pan, where the dash goeson the inside and underside of roof.

 

[5wndwcpe]

Still following, Thanks for the impute. I just thought of something that hadn't occurred to me.

What type of guns would be able to spray the under carriage?

Would the Tekna pro liites be able to? And is there any advantage to the disposable cups if you keep you gun clean?

Right now I am looking for guns to put the car in epoxy, most likely the dp90lf, and then some places just seal then base clear like the interior and exterior of the floor pan, where the dash goeson the inside and underside of roof.

Just a personal note, I think DP90lf is crap. The old DP90 was good stuff until they came out with the lead-free.

A very good epoxy is made by Southern Polyurethanes Inc.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

Lest you think it's a no-name brand, there were twelve cars at Pebble Beach this year sporting their products, their tech support is unparalleled and the prices are reasonable to boot.

 

[pturner]

my guns

i use a Sharpe Razor for paint and clear, but use a no-name with big tip for primer. i just dont mix the two. Trash the primer gun when it starts to act weird. i do agree with the other folks about getting someone with a good reputation to shoot it for you. $400 to shoot it would be cheaper than my Sharp.
PT in Tennessee

 

[The not so tall man]

Paying someone to paint it just isn't an option. I just can't do it.

I'd rather do it myself and it not be perfect then pay some one else and it be perfect.

I used to paint some, I worked for two body shops. One sprayed ppg the other dupont, this was back around 94-98.

I have a lot of panels cut in or primed from back then which is why I want to use ppt this time, I used to use the dp90 NCP250 and concept 2020 clear, I forget what the base was called deltron? (was urethane)

I liked it a lot better then the dupont and vary prime etc. I used to mix and tint the paints at the dupont place.

The problem is I haven't touched the stuff since 98 and a lot has changed since then.

 

[eric383]

Some products have changed but squirting paint is still the same. Just get some practice and you will be okay. Watch some Youtube and try to pick up some tips. SPI has a great forum also. http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum

So does this site.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/

 

[The not so tall man]

Was looking into the SPI paint FAQ.

They don't mix basecoat colors?

Makes it kind of scary mixing up systems doesn't it?

 

[hemi#1]

you don't need to clean the inside of the cup so your saving solvent

 

[5wndwcpe]

Was looking into the SPI paint FAQ.

They don't mix basecoat colors?

Makes it kind of scary mixing up systems doesn't it?

They only have white ,black and red in single stage for a topcoat.

There is absolutely no issues with using their epoxy under someone elses base (PPG, Sikkens, Wanda etc.) and then using SPI clear on top.

The mixing brands phobia was mostly put forth by jobbers who took the easy way out when you had a problem. If you used a Dupont product and a PPG product on the same job and had a problem, both jobbers would blame each others products and warn you against ever doing that again in an attempt to keep you loyal to their particular brand.

Usually the culprit (as far as product goes) is either screwing up the mix ratios or worse, using the wrong components (ie. using lacquer thinner in place of reducer).

 

[eric383]

X2.....I often use SPI epoxy, Chroma base and SPI universal clear with no issues.

 

[The not so tall man]

I emailed SPI today thinking I'd have to wait till monday for a reply and got an answer in like 10 minutes. There is a jobber close to me who can deliver.

I think I'll just shoot my car in epoxy before it gets too cold. Do some welding and panel replacement over the winter.

Come sumer will I need to re-epoxy before priming, or will it be okay to scuff the epoxy and prime? Had never heard of SPI before this thread but upon googling apparently a lot of people love the stuff.

 

[5wndwcpe]

You'll read this a lot on SPI's site, but if you're within the seven day window, you can just topcoat the epoxy.

Outside the seven day window, you should scuff sand it first.

When you start going long time (think 30 days +) you'll want to scuff sand it and shoot another coat of epoxy when you pick the work back up.


Scuffing the epoxy gives you mechanical adhesion but fresh epoxy gives you chemical adhesion as well. This is what a seal coat does.

A seal coat is reduced epoxy and greatly increases the chip resistance of the topcoat.

Epoxy is tailor made for this kind of work. Paint it and leave it sit forever until you're ready to work on it again. It's not hygroscopic and won't chaulk up either.