Pig rich mixture at idle 2 x 4 Gen 2 hemi

[INTMD8]

The intake has been sucking some oil as there’s evidence of oil in the intake ports.

Not necessarily the intake leaking, could just be from reversion.

IMO, the intake flange design or gasket pattern will not matter at all in terms of sealing.

All that matters is flat surfaces square to each other and torqued properly. I like the Superformance gaskets.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

I didn't realize you already reran without PCV. I agree about reversion especially with that manifold. The intake bolts will be in the heads with through hole so exposed to engine oil. We use a super 300 sealant on the intake bolts going into the head. But it sounds like your back to getting gas in the motor which can point to too much fuel going unburned at idle low rpm? Interesting issue.

If the cam and motor have sufficient break in you might want to clean it all up, do a high RPM run for 10 minutes or so with no idle. Shut it off and reinspect.

 

[Beekeeper]

I didn't realize you already reran without PCV. I agree about reversion especially with that manifold. The intake bolts will be in the heads with through hole so exposed to engine oil. We use a super 300 sealant on the intake bolts going into the head. But it sounds like your back to getting gas in the motor which can point to too much fuel going unburned at idle low rpm? Interesting issue.

If the cam and motor have sufficient break in you might want to clean it all up, do a high RPM run for 10 minutes or so with no idle. Shut it off and reinspect.

Thanks for the suggestions I will do a high rpm run and see how it goes. Just an FYI intake bolt holes in a Stage V hemi head are blind holes not through holes.

 

[Beekeeper]

Not necessarily the intake leaking, could just be from reversion.

IMO, the intake flange design or gasket pattern will not matter at all in terms of sealing.

All that matters is flat surfaces square to each other and torqued properly. I like the Superformance gaskets.

Thanks for the reply!I do agree there would
likely be some reversion with this intake and camshaft. I really appreciate all you
guys helping me with my engine issues.

 

[Beekeeper]

I checked the intake fit once again and this time i used a very light coat of prussian blue
on the face of the heads.
Next I dropped the intake on using studs and no gaskets and torqued to 30 inch lbs.
using the proper sequence.
Here’s what it looks like.

 

[AR67GTX]

Hmmm - not sure what to think of that. What do you think? I guess 30 inch-lbs on the bolts shouldn’t be enough to distort the intake without gaskets.

 

[Beekeeper]

Hmmm - not sure what to think of that. What do you think? I guess 30 inch-lbs on the bolts shouldn’t be enough to distort the intake without gaskets.

I wouldn’t think 30 in-lbs would distort the intake. It’s for sure a bit tight tighter at the bottom of the ports keep in mind it was a very thin film of blue so we’re more likely seeing less than a thousandth or two of difference. I wanna think it would be good to be a bit tighter at the bottom vs tighter at the top I have tried a to fit a 1.5 thousandths feeler gauge at the corners top to bottom but it won’t go so i think it’s a pretty good fit.

 

[Fran Blacker]

What gasket are you going to use,.060 or .090? Are going to trim out excess gasket material ?

 

[Beekeeper]

What gasket are you going to use,.060 or .090? Are going to trim out excess gasket material ?

I have .062 and .047 superformance and .060 felpro yea I trimmed out the .062 ones

 

[Beekeeper]

Here’s the intake side I’m wondering if there’s a need to port the intake to match the head ports?

 

[Fran Blacker]

I'd check the torque on all the bolts before starting engine for a while until your sure gasket is compressed.

 

[Jeremiah]

Be cautious matching the intake to the heads. Sometimes it hurts more than helps. In addition do not port match the exhaust ports to the header tube. Gasket match yes, port match to headers no. Darin Morgan said so is my only backup to that statment.

The hemi that I am working on is a stage v deal at 540". The idle circuit air bleed passages in each primary booster assembly required modification to calibrate the idle circuit. Also make sure the metering spring aren't too stiff to be pulled down by idle vac. If the throttle shafts on the carbs leak air that needs to be addressed as well.

The best way I know to verify intake fitment is bolting the intake down with no gaskets finger tight and use a feller gauge to map out the gaps. Then mill or adjust gasket thickness accordingly.

 

[Beekeeper]

Be cautious matching the intake to the heads. Sometimes it hurts more than helps. In addition do not port match the exhaust ports to the header tube. Gasket match yes, port match to headers no. Darin Morgan said so is my only backup to that statment.

The hemi that I am working on is a stage v deal at 540". The idle circuit air bleed passages in each primary booster assembly required modification to calibrate the idle circuit. Also make sure the metering spring aren't too stiff to be pulled down by idle vac. If the throttle shafts on the carbs leak air that needs to be addressed as well.

The best way I know to verify intake fitment is bolting the intake down with no gaskets finger tight and use a feller gauge to map out the gaps. Then mill or adjust gasket thickness accordingly.

Thanks for the info I do have some brass set screws to do the idle circuit calibration if i need them. plan to start with the bypass idle air bleeds first. I’d rather not do any porting on the intake and i have used the feeler gauges to check intake fit corner to corner and top to bottom on the intake flange to head.

 

[INTMD8]

Agreed on you may hurt more than help by trying to port match.

If you open up the manifold at the face you need to open up the entire port to keep taper/shape consistent (I did this on mine and it took about 15 hours).

You don't just want the end of the port bellmouthed to match the head, better off leaving it smaller/as-is.

 

[Beekeeper]

Agreed on you may hurt more than help by trying to port match.

If you open up the manifold at the face you need to open up the entire port to keep taper/shape consistent (I did this on mine and it took about 15 hours).

You don't just want the end of the port bellmouthed to match the head, better off leaving it smaller/as-is.

Thanks yea I know it takes a ton of time porting intakes especially on the short side radius.
Id rather not go down that road for a street car.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

Brand new heads, brand new manifold. Was the block decked? Regardless that fit looked pretty good. If the gasket is glued to the head, you should get a good seal based on what you have said and shown. What you have though is an open plenum race manifold with after market edelbrocks. I guess it would be nice to hear from someone who used this combo. But if you used a Vanke mod on the street it was not a good combo, for street hemi. Plus mods to carb were required. I have seen edelbrocks put on a street manifold and work. Did you ever do a high speed run on the stand?

 

[Beekeeper]

Brand new heads, brand new manifold. Was the block decked? Regardless that fit looked pretty good. If the gasket is glued to the head, you should get a good seal based on what you have said and shown. What you have though is an open plenum race manifold with after market edelbrocks. I guess it would be nice to hear from someone who used this combo. But if you used a Vanke mod on the street it was not a good combo, for street hemi. Plus mods to carb were required. I have seen edelbrocks put on a street manifold and work. Did you ever do a high speed run on the stand?

I haven’t ran it again yet but do plan to do a high speed run I plan to install an intake today.
I have three intakes but none seem like the one I should use for a street application so I haven’t installed one of them yet. What I have are the stage V and a mopar marine and a factory intake that has been modified. I would like to find a good factory intake with no mods and stick it on there and go from there. I thought of trying the marine intake this time around since it is at least a dual plane does this sound like it would be worth trying? I’m really starting to question the use of the Stage V at this point I thought I remember seeing that @INTMD8
here used a setup similar to mine but I have read so many threads on the subject it all just kinda runs together. Here’s the factory intake.

 

[Fran Blacker]

That marine manifold is I believe like a Vanke that will accept 3116 or 4235 and 36 Holleys.

 

[Beekeeper]

That marine manifold is I believe like a Vanke that will accept 3116 or 4235 and 36 Holleys.

Yea that’s correct Fran the carb spacing is the same on the marine as the stage V both can use holley carbs. I’m not a fan of using the Holleys with the fuel lines on the same side as the throttle linkage although they are a bit more tuner friendly. I may just give the marine intake a try this time around I’m getting pretty efficient at intake removal and install on this hemi.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

That manifold pictured is beyond a Vanke mod. So that is something someone did on their own. Pictures available of how the Vanke mod looks on web. I would get a street manifold if you can. I don't think that marine manifold was good either.