Points to HEI "HOT Ballist Resister!"

[Baydo]

Hello MOPAR Nation!
Here's the deal, I have just attempted to convert my 1966 Coronet 318 Poly from Points to Electronic Ignition.
I feel as if I screwed up?

I went with a "Proform Electronic Ignition Kit" I have a MSD Blaster Coil
the left side of my Balist Resister has one blue wire, The Right side has a blue and a brown.
The Orange Box that came with the kit had 3 wires BLACK WITH A YELLOW TRACE LINE / BLUE WITH A YELLOW TRACE LINE and a 3rd wire they said I didnt need.
I attached the BLACK wire to the negative side of the MSD Coil,
I attached the BLUE wire to the RIGHT side of the Ballest Resister "That's the side with the single blue wire"
I also have a new 60 amp Alternator, New wires Plugs, all that good stuff.

The Problem?
Is this rite? the Ballist gets Hotter than Hell, and one time it just slowly died out like it was out of gas, so I checked and added a new ground
to the Orange box when it starts and runs, it sounds great! I'm just not sure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[dpstark2]

Check your wiring per this image:

View attachment 257307

More info here: http://www.slantsix.org/articles/leanburn-article/leanburn-article.htm

One thought is your coil is probably not compatible with this system. Check the documentation to see if the resistance of your coil (probably <1ohm) is OK or not with the orange box. Second, you might need to go to a four pin ballast. Probably the coil and orange box are pulling too much current for one ballast resistor.

Also, you have a magnetic pick-up distributor, right? I don't think points work with the orange box, which is not HEI, by the way. If it worked at all, it probably would get very hot somewhere in the circuit.

 

[Badvert65]

What he said. Check with the coil maker. Your coil is what determines the need, and what size, ballast resistor for your system.

 

[Cranky]

Electronic ignition systems, whether factory Mopar or aftermarket, do not actually need a ballast resistor to control amperage through the pickup coil. And while ignition coil life may be compromised without a resistor, the additional secondary voltage (at the spark plug) is increased which generally improves power.

Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-...sistor-guide-ballast-blast-off/#ixzz3aDhgDfGD

And yup, best to check and see what they say. Also, resistors generally run on the hot side.

 

[Baydo]

Thanks!
Yes I have a New Proform HEI distributor.
I did not run my own "Positive" wire to the coil like the diagram, It should already be attached "per the right side blue wire, thats why it runs?
I think the MSD Coil is wrong for my needs!

 

[dpstark2]

The picture doesn't look like an HEI distributor- it looks like a regular magnetic pickup distributor. Also, if you do have one, I don't think you need or want the orange box. HEI usually is built into the distributor or uses a small external module. Some have the coil built into the cap too. I think you have a mismatch of parts, regardless.

 

[Baydo]

The picture doesn't look like an HEI distributor- it looks like a regular magnetic pickup distributor. Also, if you do have one, I don't think you need or want the orange box. HEI usually is built into the distributor or uses a small external module. Some have the coil built into the cap too. I think you have a mismatch of parts, regardless.

My Bad, That was a photo before new HEI Dist. was installed.
These probably make more sense.

 

[Baydo]

Also the Proform HEI kit came with the Orange box, Distributor and Ballist Resister.
I'm going to take your advice and pick up a different coil.
Everyone's advice has been great, Thanks dpstark2

 

[kellycom]

The coil determines if you need the ballast resistor. Mopar coils (OEM) use an external resistor (ie: the need for the ballast resistor.) If the coil you're using has an internal resistor then you dont need the ballast. The ballast resistor will be warm/hot even if your coil doesnt have an internal resistor. That's just the nature of electricity when passed through any resistance.

check with the coil manufacturer if you need the ballast and how to wire it if you don't.

 

[Baydo]

Thanks
I just left Mancini racing on Kelly rd. in Michigan, The guy there said the coil shouldn't matter, they sell them with there kits all the time. ( I should of asked if they sell them with the MSD Kits) I also got off the phone with MDS Tech support, He could not speak good English but I think he said "No problem my friend"...? I'm not making that up.
So I guess I'll just have to run it and play it by ear...

 

[Icecobra]

I have a similar setup as you and did research this very issue. The ballast resistor was originally installed as the factory coil did not cope well with 12 to 14 volts. So the ballast resistor was added by engineering to dissipate some of the voltage by turning it in to heat. That's essentially how it works turn voltage to heat and reduce voltage to about 10 volts to coil. Today with your setup you can actually just bypass the resistor and pace a short piece of wire with two spade connectors on it and connect the wire from the ballast resistor to each other. This will put full voltage to both your distributor and your MSD blaster 2 coil. No need to worry they are designed to work at full voltage. You may even find the car runs better now it gets the right amount of voltage. Mine runs perfectly in this configuration.

 

[Dako]

I see yer problem...its in yer last photo. That seat needs recovered! Getcha one of them Mexican blankets and you'll be fine.:icon_pidu:

Seriously, you should be able to by-pass the ballast resistor. And as mentioned, they do get hot to the touch...even when used in the stock configuration.

 

[texas69bee]

What brand of alternator are you running in are you sure it's a 50 amp. What is the part number ?

 

[Icecobra]

Alternator is not really part of the equation where the ballast resistor is concerned.. A higher Amperage rating on the alternator just means its there for extra draw (amps) if the system draws it. The ballast resistor only concerns itself with stepping the voltage down to about 9 to 10 volts. This was required only to make sure the coil on the engine lasted longer. Your wiring has more to do with higher amperage alternators as they move more current. A ballast does not draw but about a half amp of current and that's a fixed number that does not change much overall. The MSD coil is rated for the 12 volt system so remove the ballast and get more volts to the coil and distributor. Amps and volts are different but are relative only as an equation... Look up ohms law it a good read if you want to know about electrical...

 

[texas69bee]

Icecobra... I'm well aware of ohm's law. I guess I should of specified more on why I was asking about the alternator. I've been trying to purchase an alternator for my 69 to convert over to electronic ignition. He had mentioned he went to Mancini so I checked there web site. I was wondering if he bought a Powermaster. If he did how do you know what you really have? Read these descriptions.
Manciniracing part# PMW7018 http://www.manciniracing.com/oem50amprbae.html If this is similar to what he has, doesn't he need a dual field? Why the variation in amps for the product description?

Summittracing part# PMW7018 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-7018/overview/make/dodge

Yearone part# PM60 https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/chr...r-.-reproduction/powermaster-.-natural-finish

And I saved the best for last...

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/mopar1.html

Look under where it says chrome 80amp, natural finish. To me this means I get this exact same alternator in 80amps but in a natural finish. When I called Powermaster(tech department) he said the part # I need is the 7018. Remember this is the same # as the other vendors. So is it 80 amps or 90 amps? Is it a single field like Mancini advertises or is it a dual field?

Well, you would think the Powermaster website would be correct but hit this link. (scroll down to where it says retro alternators) 7018 single pulley is now listed as a 50amp http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/mopar.html

 

[Icecobra]

I can tell you it makes no difference if you buy a dual field alternator if you only need a single field, you just ground the second field connection. I went with with a local brand when faced with alternator replacement. Part number seems to be universal across a lot of distributors 7007. The outside case color is natural, if you want chrome then pick a chrome cased alternator. I am really trying to stay stock on mine but that's another story... I am at least saving all the stock stuff in boxes to put back on should the need arise... As to alternator output I am wondering why you would need 80 amps? I know, stereo?

 

[texas69bee]

Nope, not at all stereo. I would prefer something around the range of 60-70. But you are missing the point of my comment. I have heard good things about Powermaster but I am having trouble finding the absolute correct part#. I wish I had original parts to set aside but that's another story too. I am also trying to build something closer to the stock look. No it doesn't make a difference whether you buy this or that but you should no what you bought. I'd hate to buy a 50 amp and find out later the 100 amp is melting my wires. If you thought this was about chrome then read the previous comment again and again.