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Priming oil pump

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Sep 23, 2022
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minnesota
I was priming the oil pump in my B Block stroker and the drill snatched out of my hand.

I can feel the pump build pressure, then it will slow my 1/2 drill down, and the torque from the drill will want to pull it out of my hands.

Should it be like this?

I have never primed an oil pump in the past. Just lots of assembly lube and fired them up.

Thanks
 
Yes it should have lots of resistance when it’s building pressure and more so with a high volume pump.
what grade oil are you using?
 
If it's taking alot of torque to turn the pump, then congratulations!
Your pump is good.
 
Sounds about right. It takes Horsepower to pump oil. High Volume takes more than standard. I was surprised the first time that I primed an engine.
 
Hi satellite man,
I am attaching a diagram of the engine so you can understand that the engine and cam have to be in a certain position for the oil to be pumped throughout the entire engine. Going to the left bank as well as going to the right bank. The crankshaft has to be turned so the cam can switch the offices of the oil passages so that the oil can actually be pumped to the top of the engine. It will fill the rocker arms with oil as well as come out of the rocker tops where you can see the oil. If you do not see oil coming from the rocker area the engine is only partially primed and that is why you feel so much resistance when you are turning the oil pump.

I to ran into this very issue when I was priming an engine as well. Further investigation I found this diagram in my maintenance book for the year of my car. I then did exactly what it said to do and I achieved oil coming out of the rocker arms. Once you have oil coming out of one side you have to then turn the crank farther to exchange passages to prime the other side of the engine.

I hope this helps you to understand and achieve your priming.

Azmoparboy


3CEE6696-FA1B-4BE8-B356-6352CBFA2DA2.jpeg
 
Hi satellite man,
I am attaching a diagram of the engine so you can understand that the engine and cam have to be in a certain position for the oil to be pumped throughout the entire engine. Going to the left bank as well as going to the right bank. The crankshaft has to be turned so the cam can switch the offices of the oil passages so that the oil can actually be pumped to the top of the engine. It will fill the rocker arms with oil as well as come out of the rocker tops where you can see the oil. If you do not see oil coming from the rocker area the engine is only partially primed and that is why you feel so much resistance when you are turning the oil pump.

I to ran into this very issue when I was priming an engine as well. Further investigation I found this diagram in my maintenance book for the year of my car. I then did exactly what it said to do and I achieved oil coming out of the rocker arms. Once you have oil coming out of one side you have to then turn the crank farther to exchange passages to prime the other side of the engine.

I hope this helps you to understand and achieve your priming.

Azmoparboy


View attachment 1347108
Thank you
 
Minnesota, 50w sounds to heavy to me? What are your reasons for using that?
 
Is it a fresh build? I've got a 383 stroked to 496. I live in the SW where it gets 125° in the summer. I run 5W30 cheap Walmart synthetic w a roller cam. I never lose oil pressure even in the hottest weather. If you're not racing and don't have loose bearing tolerances, then no need to ever run that high.
 
That’s what my local speed shop had in stock. I’m only going to run the 50 WT a little bit. The weather will be crap here real soon
Do you have a Walmart or NAPA etc nearby? They all sell quality oil. Are you running flat tappet or roller lifters? Flat tappet, get a high zink zddp oil for break-in. Roller, any decent brand. It's a "stroker" n you're just priming it, so I'd "assume" fresh build. Ask your builder what his recommendations are for an everyday oil based on bearing tolerances. Again, I use 5w30 in 120° AZ weather without issue.
 
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