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Progress. Updates. And questions.

in addition to the 4 shown in the picture? 8 total?
Yes indeed.
It took me a minute to find mine - here's what it looks like.
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Yes indeed.
It took me a minute to find mine - here's what it looks like.
View attachment 1992856
Awsome. What does that do? What is the theory behind nit just more oil flow?

Also will that require more dissassembly? id be nervouse about metal shavings getting caught up in my already assembled engine?
 
Awsome. What does that do? What is the theory behind nit just more oil flow?

Also will that require more dissassembly? id be nervouse about metal shavings getting caught up in my already assembled engine?
in theory it allows more oil flow in/out of the filter.. and you can pull it off the motor, where the oil filter spins on is actually kind of a bolt, you take that off and that plate falls right out.. drill 4 more holes, clean any burrs and put it back in. The stock one only has 4 holes..
 
in theory it allows more oil flow in/out of the filter.. and you can pull it off the motor, where the oil filter spins on is actually kind of a bolt, you take that off and that plate falls right out.. drill 4 more holes, clean any burrs and put it back in. The stock one only has 4 holes..
oh sweet so this will be able to be done off the block. Thank you so much
 
Post 101 looks like the plate and stub are Magnum pieces.
 
Went and got a hoist, and another engine stand. Engine is pretty much complete as of now. just need to prime the oil system and confirm it oild properly. Then gotta add the distributor and i should be pulling the 318 out this sunday. i will take and post pictures. im going to work on cleaning out the engine bay of all the un needed stuff and get it ready for the 408 to go in.
 
WELP. Update. Tried to pull engine last weekend. Figured out that the 1 ton hoist i got from harbor freight was to short. Because the front end is the size of a boat.so this weekend I had an idea. Had to take the bumper and valence off (broke the grille on both sides. Yippie) took off the hood latch thing. Got the hois in. Got it hooked up and the engine lifted. Trans kept lifting out. Wouldn't seperate. Wen underneath. Found the bolt I missed keeping it all together. Unbolted it.

Figured it was all smoother from there. Absolutly not. Fought the S.O.B for literal hours. Trying to seperate it from the trans. It WOULD NOT budge regardless of how far I got the engine from the trans. Finally watched a video and found out how stupid I was. Did not remove the trans dust cover and unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter (told you this was my first time) went under the car. Tried to rotate engine. Won't rotate now. To get to the bolts. Was only able to get one out. So now I have to figure out how to mate the engine back to the trans. Back into the engine mounts so I can rotate it enough to get the other 3 bolts out. 2 weekends wasted being an idiot.
 
WELP. Update. Tried to pull engine last weekend. Figured out that the 1 ton hoist i got from harbor freight was to short. Because the front end is the size of a boat.so this weekend I had an idea. Had to take the bumper and valence off (broke the grille on both sides. Yippie) took off the hood latch thing. Got the hois in. Got it hooked up and the engine lifted. Trans kept lifting out. Wouldn't seperate. Wen underneath. Found the bolt I missed keeping it all together. Unbolted it.

Figured it was all smoother from there. Absolutly not. Fought the S.O.B for literal hours. Trying to seperate it from the trans. It WOULD NOT budge regardless of how far I got the engine from the trans. Finally watched a video and found out how stupid I was. Did not remove the trans dust cover and unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter (told you this was my first time) went under the car. Tried to rotate engine. Won't rotate now. To get to the bolts. Was only able to get one out. So now I have to figure out how to mate the engine back to the trans. Back into the engine mounts so I can rotate it enough to get the other 3 bolts out. 2 weekends wasted being an idiot.

That's how you learn... thing is though.. if the engine has pulled forward and been turned and you try to force/bolt them back together you can hurt the trans pump.. if you have all the trans bolts out (trans to engine block) you should be able to pull the engine with the torque converter attached, need to keep it pretty level with the trans and get it about 8" forward then you can slowly lift and come out more til it's clear.. it will make a mess (1-2 quarts of fluid on the floor), it's not the ideal way to do it.. but it works.

When you get frustrated walk away for a day... nothing will ruin a project faster than anger.
 
That's how you learn... thing is though.. if the engine has pulled forward and been turned and you try to force/bolt them back together you can hurt the trans pump.. if you have all the trans bolts out (trans to engine block) you should be able to pull the engine with the torque converter attached, need to keep it pretty level with the trans and get it about 8" forward then you can slowly lift and come out more til it's clear.. it will make a mess (1-2 quarts of fluid on the floor), it's not the ideal way to do it.. but it works.

When you get frustrated walk away for a day... nothing will ruin a project faster than anger.
Yeah. It's definitely frustrating. It has absolutly turned. Because I turned it to try and get to the bolts. And now low and behold. It no longer turns. Because they're not mated properly. My next thought was to pull both engine and trans.

I'm hoping I can mate them back up. But man did I get alot of separation when yanking on the hoist. I couldn't beleive it wouldn't come out (this was before I realized I needed to undo the bolts on the flex plate.

I guess the worst case scenario at this point is I'll have to replace the trans as well because I ruined it with how much yanking and wiggling I did on it. Or that I damaged it trying to get it re-mated. At which point I'll bite the bullet and just get a 727 instead. Just hoping to avoid all that if possible.
 
So far so not good hahahah. The bs will continue. And I WILL get it done. If I have to pull the trans as well I will. If I ruined the trans that sucks but it WILL get done. Hopefully this weekend I can take my time and get it mated back up to get it disconnected. The current goal is to just get the 318 out and re assess.

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Remove the transmission from the bottom now. The converter should be able to stay bolted to the flex plate.
Or maybe you could run a couple rachet straps from engine to back of transmission and remove both from the topside.
You have options. Unless you have started bolts again and tried your pull the engine and trans back together I doubt you have done any damage.
 
Remove the transmission from the bottom now. The converter should be able to stay bolted to the flex plate.
Or maybe you could run a couple rachet straps from engine to back of transmission and remove both from the topside.
You have options. Unless you have started bolts again and tried your pull the engine and trans back together I doubt you have done any damage.
Yes this was an idea for sure. I figured that with the engine not being removed with all the pulling me and my dad did on it (which was a ton) that it would probably stay together if we attempted to remove the trans as well. I didn't think of the ratchet straps thought that's a pretty good idea. I have not yet tried to mate the 2 back together yet, i work pretty long hours during the week and really can only get to it on Sundays. So this weekend should provide a little more progress.
 
GOT IT. Was way more annoying than it should have been. hahaha. But most of it was self inflicted. There is a full on murder scene of trans fluid all over my garage floor. Cat litter is taking care of most of it for not. But its OUT. What should i look for as far as if i ruined the trans? Is there a good indicator or will i just find out after installation and when i go to drive lol?

Bought new poly iso bushings for the body and k frame mount only to find a small hole in the side of the k frame right by where the bushing goes. As far as i can tell its very small but still not great. I have looked into replacing the k frame, but it seems like thats the spot thats rusts for everyone. ill try to get a picture up of it in the next few days.

Next seems to be cleaning up the engine bay of the un needed stuff, getting the firewall removed of the extras im not using, maybe wirewheeling and painting the k frame. definitely replacing the bushings. Who knows what else.

i still need to fill and prime the oiling system. get distributor in. wires and plugs. install engine. get some headers and and exhaust system figured out. (any reccomendations on headers? so far hooker seems to be the best for the price.)

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I just read your thread here and nice job putting this engine together yourself! I just built up my first engine from a bare block and it is an educating experience, to say the least! I ran mine on a stand and no leaks, no problems. I shouldn't have said that, ha ha.... Do you plan on firing it up before installing it?
 
I just read your thread here and nice job putting this engine together yourself! I just built up my first engine from a bare block and it is an educating experience, to say the least! I ran mine on a stand and no leaks, no problems. I shouldn't have said that, ha ha.... Do you plan on firing it up before installing it?
To be honest. I thought about it for sure. But most likley not. I want to. But I'm jot 100% what's involved in doing something like that. I'd love to be able to know 100% that it runs and dosent leak before I install it and find out the hard way though.
 
With the yanking and such, you probably need another flex plate as I am sure you bent it. Also, if the shield got bent, replace or bend back. The biggest thing is if the torque converter was damaged internally, and the input shaft/oil pump in the transmission.

The torque converter snout not going back into the rear of the crankshaft is likely what prevented from going back together.
 
With the yanking and such, you probably need another flex plate as I am sure you bent it. Also, if the shield got bent, replace or bend back. The biggest thing is if the torque converter was damaged internally, and the input shaft/oil pump in the transmission.

The torque converter snout not going back into the rear of the crankshaft is likely what prevented from going back together.
I bought a heavy duty flexplate sort of expecting that. Because there was ALOT of flexing in that flexplate lol. If you look closely at some of the pictures. You can see how far the engine and trans really were separated when we were pulling it out. The ratchet straps really did wonders keeping it all together until it was out fully.

Is there a way I can test the torque converter snout out of the car to see if it will be an issu? We really just pulled the engine and trans. Seperated them and called it a day. Haven't messed with it since last weekend. Have some plans of tinkering this weekend though it's mothersday so idk how much I'll be able to get done.
 
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