Question about the Ammeter vs Volt Meter debate

[mrsnicks]

I've read about bypassing the factory ammeter and using a volt meter in it's place. I've read the Mad Electric article about the weak link being the factory flat blade/terminal in the factory bulk head connectors.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Here's my issue/question.

A volt meter only measures volts... I know that an alternator can put out volts but NOT put out amps so that battery will discharge.
Can the factory Ammeter/amp gauge be used if you just eliminate the connection at the factory bulkhead connector.... Just straight wire it in and out of the bulkhead connector eliminating the connectors (weak points).

Anyone see any problems/issues with this?

 

[Propwash]

No issue with that....One step closer to eliminating the Mopar Bulkhead/Ammeter pyro party.

 

[bink220]

Morning, I just re-did the dash wiring on my 65 Coronet 500. New wire's from the alt and starter relay to the amp gauge. I used 10 gauge wire from both location's and also used a fuseable link on the wire from the starter relay. The shop manual wiring schematic called for 12 guage wire. Anyway, I ran the wires straight from the alt and starter relay eliminating the bulkhead connector's. Pictures to follow.

And the Ammeter works fine. Bink

 

[b_body_hopeful]

I don't remember where, but I read that the amp gauge can be another problem area. It can get hot and might be a factor in
fire under the dash. I by-passed it when I rewired my 73 RR.

 

[bink220]

That's true especially if you use an atl that puts out alot more amps. The amp gauge was designed at the time for the output of the factory alt. Since guys are updating their cars ie: electric fans, A/C etc the standard alt can't carry the extra load so the car owner up dates his alt to a higher output unit which in turns put's more amps thru the ammeter.

 

[eric383]

The amp gauge bypass is one of my winter projects in my 63. I already have aftermarket gauges with a volt meter so I know if the old Dodge is charging. One more potential problem eliminated.

 

[69Bee]

...A volt meter only measures volts... I know that an alternator can put out volts but NOT put out amps so that battery will discharge...

Actually, one cannot exist without the other. An alternator cannot put out volts without putting out amps. Voltage is a potential created electromechanically, and current (amps) is the flow of electrons in the circuit. The amount of each depends on a load (resistance) for the circuit. If any variable (Voltage, Current, Resistance) is zero, the result is zero.

If you measure 12v, but the battery does not charge, there is still a current flow, evidenced by the fact that you measured 12v. The meter is the load, and because the impedance of the meter is high, there is a minute current flow. The problem is that the alternator cannot provide the correct current flow to charge the battery, and will show a discharge.

That aside, I prefer the ammeter. Properly fixing the wiring to it with the correct size wire will suffice.

 

[eric383]

My issue with the ammeter is you are running all the current through it and if it burns out you are dead in the water. I bought a 73 Duster brand new and a year later the ammeter burnt out and left me stranded. The scary part now days is all the crap made in China and if you go to an after market ammeter this is probably where it will be made. Do you really want to trust a 40+ year old ammeter in your dash. I guess if I really wanted to keep my ammeter I would send the dash out to get it rebuilt. If you have a good aftermarket volt meter you are just bridging onto the switched power source as oppose to running the power through the meter. A properly operating charging system will put out approx. 12.6-14.2 volts, any variance outside of this will indicate either overcharging or under charging. IE=11.9 volts undercharging or 15volts overcharging. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[modernistsouth]

I don't remember where, but I read that the amp gauge can be another problem area. It can get hot and might be a factor in
fire under the dash. I by-passed it when I rewired my 73 RR.

Overheating is usually caused by loose or poor connections in the circuit because of an increase in resistance. Just improving the connectors will help the fire problem. As an extra safety, you can also install a fusible link.

 

[440+6]

I've read about bypassing the factory ammeter and using a volt meter in it's place. I've read the Mad Electric article about the weak link being the factory flat blade/terminal in the factory bulk head connectors.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Here's my issue/question.

A volt meter only measures volts... I know that an alternator can put out volts but NOT put out amps so that battery will discharge.
Can the factory Ammeter/amp gauge be used if you just eliminate the connection at the factory bulkhead connector.... Just straight wire it in and out of the bulkhead connector eliminating the connectors (weak points).

Anyone see any problems/issues with this?

That's exactly what the factory did on all police and taxi units, they took the two high amperage wires out of the bulkhead connector and ran solid wires through a grommet on the firewall. They knew that heavier than stock loads would be a problem at the bulkhead connector.
If you have good clean connections and stock alternator and stock loads you should never have a problem, I never have.

You might want to check out this page:
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

 

[Bruzilla]

So reading that allpar article, I'm supposed to run wire/link from the output terminal on the alternator to the battery terminal on the starter relay. So what becomes of the wire that's currently connected to the output and battery terminals? Do I leave them disconnected, cut them off, remove them entirely?

 

[67 coronet]

So reading that allpar article, I'm supposed to run wire/link from the output terminal on the alternator to the battery terminal on the starter relay. So what becomes of the wire that's currently connected to the output and battery terminals? Do I leave them disconnected, cut them off, remove them entirely?

acording to the article you would leave them as stock.it diverts most of the power,not all,so they would have to still be in place.