Question for body guys about lead or not

[3sloppydogs]

Guys, a friend of mine had to replace his roof skin on his mustang because of the vinyl top. It rotted the roof badly. The joint where the roof was spot welded to quarter was sealed with lead. He is insisting on using lead to fill the joint. I would lean towards a filler that has some metal in it.
The roof is attached and ready. Neither one of us has experience with leading that joint.
What do you guys use?

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

I used some expoxy mud in the day that worked well in the day at the body shop called Dymatron (two part mud) but also used lead at the shop too. Think that high up you’d be ok using a good fill but if he’s set on lead let him try it but it’s tricky and maybe a lost art. Just my 2 cents from my expirence in the day

 

[RemCharger]

Lead is not the way to go. That's what sucks the moisture in and rots. Should make a piece and weld it in flat, then very little filler.
My non professional opinion..

 

[Jerry Hall]

Guys, a friend of mine had to replace his roof skin on his mustang because of the vinyl top. It rotted the roof badly. The joint where the roof was spot welded to quarter was sealed with lead. He is insisting on using lead to fill the joint. I would lean towards a filler that has some metal in it.
The roof is attached and ready. Neither one of us has experience with leading that joint.
What do you guys use?

I would try a product that's called "All Metal". It's a metal based filler. Hopefully the name hasn't changed since I last used it.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Lead causes brain damage….so, no.

 

[493 Mike]

Lead causes brain damage….so, no.

Isn't that the reason we are in this hobby?
Mike

 

[F4R/T]

Where is our body shop tech @eldubb440

 

[Runcharger]

Weld in a sheetmetal bridge. Any type of filler to finish it up. Just a skim over the bridge,

 

[eldubb440]

I get rid of the swiss cheese flange, make my own, and weld it solid...... I use marine-tex grey as a base filler, I have no issues with all metal

 

[RonnieLongball]

I like lead. I worked at a radiator shop and it’s really not that hard. Obtaining flux that actually works, that is kind of a pain in the ***. I’ve used tinning flux in the jar, but liquid works so much better. Heat, hit with flux, tin the bare metal. Heat the area and apply solder. Use the liquid flux to control the solder and keep it from running. I use a wooden handle I shaved down as a “masher/smoother/spreader” too much heat and it will end up on your feet. Smaller flame is more controlled but heat concentrated to a little area. It’s easiest on a rotisserie, where your work area can be horizontal. I’ll look for pix shortly

 

[YY1]

The vinyl is what traps water and makes it rot, not the lead.

Don't put that back on and you'll be much better off no matter what filler you use.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Isn't that the reason we are in this hobby?
Mike

Fair point….and hearing loss, definitely hearing loss

 

[R413]

Weld in a sheetmetal bridge. Any type of filler to finish it up. Just a skim over the bridge,

This is the modern way to do it!

Filler with metal doesn't mean anything. Any 2 part filler with hardener will do the same thing.

Lead is out.

 

[j-c-c-62]

I like lead. I worked at a radiator shop and it’s really not that hard. Obtaining flux that actually works, that is kind of a pain in the ***. I’ve used tinning flux in the jar, but liquid works so much better. Heat, hit with flux, tin the bare metal. Heat the area and apply solder. Use the liquid flux to control the solder and keep it from running. I use a wooden handle I shaved down as a “masher/smoother/spreader” too much heat and it will end up on your feet. Smaller flame is more controlled but heat concentrated to a little area. It’s easiest on a rotisserie, where your work area can be horizontal. I’ll look for pix shortly

It is quite impressive to watch a true lead craftsman do body work. My dad hired a body man in very early 60's to do some lead repairs. It was amazing to this kid. I feel it is the best solution, but at my point in life, the risks, known and unknown are not worth the it with the current other alternatives available.

 

[dvw]

I've had more than one car with rust under factory lead. After cleaning to bare steel we epoxy prime, then Duraglass. Final top coat with a very thin layer of filler as Duraglass is quite coarse. If it's a racecar we weld the seam solid first. My Challerger, Road Runner and Belvedere race car were all done this way. Road Runner was painted in 1986, Challenger 2003, Belvedere 2012. All seams still look perfect. All 3 are show quality paint.
Doug

 

[azblackhemi]

I have replaced quite a few Mopar quarters and have had good luck filling the seams with All Metal EXCEPT on E bodies. For some reason that I can't figure out on E bodies the seam will sink in and show up as it expands and contracts in the sun. I even had the factory rep from USSC who makes All Metal come to my shop and he was baffled as well. We tried over catalyzing the all metal but even that didn't work. USSC wound up paying me for my time and reimbursing me for the material and recommended using lead which is what I do now on all E bodies.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Fair point….and hearing loss, definitely hearing loss

Are we talking heated leaded, or high-speed lead causing hearing loss?

 

[Bighouse]

Every body guys way is the best way.

Just ask em….

 

[3sloppydogs]

The vinyl top is not going back on, it will be painted. I like the bridge idea. This helps
Thanks guys!