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Ready to shoot somebody or something! Charging issue?

  • Thread starter Deleted member 214
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Deleted member 214

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70 Runner 440+6. Dash ammeter bypassed long ago. Voltmeter used to jiggle and wiggle, 13v when revving, dropping below 12 with lights on, would even wiggle at idle in time with the turn signals. Got car back from shop with newly rebuilt motor last Thursday. Voltmeter seemed stuck on 12 so I thought it was just a bad wire. Drove it a few times since, runs great. It seemed to have a hot start problem, though, but was easy to crank when cool.

Tonight I tried to start the car after sitting a day. It turned over twice, then starter solenoid would only click.

Battery read 12.2v. Put a charger on it, car started up and ran fine. However, using a meter across the battery, it was 12.26 volts with all accessories off and engine above 2k RPM. Turned on headlights, dropped to 12.10 volts. Cheap volt meter under dash read just under 12, then moved slightly to 11.5 or so with lights on. I replaced voltage regulator, no change. Checked to make sure the blue and green wire on the alternator were in the right places, and they were. Engine is grounded to the firewall. Battery ground is bolted to the engine - used to be bolted to the head, but with the Edelbrocks the shop bolted it to the block near the motor mounts (can't see in the dark garage). No idea what to try next. Looks like my trip to Carlisle will be riding in my brother's Avenger, dammit! :angryfire:

Any hints as to what to try when I get home?????
 
...I'd say it"s an alternator or battery problem, check for a dead cell... how old is the alternator ? using an under drive pulley?
If I remember correctly you should be reading @ Battery 12.8v with engine and everything off, with engine running 1200rpm or so 13-13.5V capping at 14v there are other things it could be ,,,but I would start there first....good luck
 
Alt bad not charging battery. should have 14vdc while idling on volt meter. at least 13-14. Check all wires hooked upped from battery to alternator and any ignition parts.
 
Pop that alternator off and take it to your local parts store. They'll check it for free...
 
I had the same thing about 2 months ago - turned out to be one dead cell in my battery. New battery and it charges perfect now. An auto-electrician can check the battery for you - load test and CCA test.
 
The alternator is certinaly not charging; as stated, there should be 13.6-14.3 volts at the battery at fast idle.

1) Have bettery checked; probably not an issue but be thorugh.
2) How many small wires area on the back of the alternaotr in addition to the large output wire? There should be 1 or 2.
3) Take the voltage regulatro off the fender/firewall and CLEAN under the mouting points and resecure with start washers to make sure you a have good ground. This problem is very common.

Did the shop put in a new alternator or the one you had before? Same question for the voltage regulator.
 
Same alternator and vegulator. Swapped in new regulator, no help. Im in Carlisle now without my car. Feel like a diabetic in a candy store!
 
Well at least you ARE at Carlisle; I have to work for the next 8 days straight....no Carlisle for me, sad to say! Enjoy the show!
 
Got home, took alternator and battery to parts store. Bad alternator. Battery was good but had no charge. Put in new 76 amp alternator, charged the battery for half an hour, turned over faster than it ever has. Lights brighter than I can ever remember. Caught tail end of a cruise and the car was swamped with guys. I feel better now!
 
Ding! winner

"Alt bad not charging battery. should have 14vdc while idling on volt meter. at least 13-14. Check all wires hooked upped from battery to alternator and any ignition parts."


glad to see it's fixed
 
Glad to hear you got her fixed... makes the whole world brighter, NOW with that said you might want to look into electrical mods..
Like: alt direct to battery through starter relay,... and using relays for head lights, I just did the mods and they work ABSOLUTELY GREAT !!!!!
 
Already bypassed ammeter and go direct from the alternator to the battery thru the starter relay with fusible link in line. Had relays put on the headlights just after I got the car, but the lights are still not very bright. Maybe it is just compared to today's lights...
 
Headlights of all types will lose light intensity when they get old. Sounds like time for new headlamps.
 
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