Shouldn't be hard to locate the new style idler arm.
Rebuilding LemonWedge.
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LemonWedge
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I guess that answers my question. Shouldn’t be an issue then.
LemonWedge
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I suppose this is how we learn. Everything I read said the K-members were the same…. Apparently not (?). If there was a change in engine location, it must not have been much. Both Hooker and Doug’s list the same headers for both 67 & 70 B-Body vehicles. For what it’s worth or applies here, my car was built in late 66.
The good news Tex, is that my plans include a motorplate. So the K-member won’t dictate engine location.
One of my racing buddies loaned me his plasma cutter; I’m going to take this K-member to the surgery room anyway, the only mounts left when I’m done will be the steering box and idler arm.
A quick Look at Summit identifies Moog P#K7041 for a ‘70 roadrunner, which the K-member is supposedly out of. Looks correct, will be in my next Summit order. Looking at the two designs, the captive bolt through design would appear to be the superior design, especially for a car that will be picking up and setting down the front suspension regularly.
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The bolt through design idler is said to be the superior (improved) design. LW my motor is moved back to the point that the right side valve cover “just” clears the firewall when removing. The trans tunnel joints are trimmed down, no other mods other than the cross member which now accommodates a single stud urethane mount. Trans blanket needs to be installed before raising trans into place. Good to hear you’re back at it.
dvw
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The bolt thru design is definately more robust. Mine runs the early style. My bet is that is a major cause of front wheel osciillation coming down from a wheel stand. Do check that the centerlink is parallel to the ground. Had more than a few that the bracket holes are in the wrong plane causing the center link to be high/low on the passenger side. Easy fix. Just check it before everythings painted an nice.
Doug
Doug
LemonWedge
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Played around with the plasma cutter on my bent k-member today. Pretty happy with this initial look. Cut, ground flat, welded seam, ground back again with a flap-wheel. There’s some porosity in this weld, as I didn’t clean it really well. But I’m encouraged with what I’m able to do here.
fullmetaljacket
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That looks good already. Ridding the K of that pinched continental shelf should shed a few pounds easily.
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Keep us looped in on the weight loss of the hero K. With motor mounts and the shelves removed, you should get close to anywhere 4-7 Lbs loss.
Agreed. 5 Lbs is what came off mine when it lost the mounts.
fullmetaljacket
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Yes, I lost about the same at 5 lbs or so with the mounts removed. I added a small gusset to the steering mounting area though, but minimal.
LemonWedge
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More K Q’s:
What’s the deal with the steering box flange that captures the output shaft? It appears as though if I bury the steering arm as far up the shaft as possible, it’ll clear this flange and bolt up, and the flange captures the steering box similar to the idler arm opposite to strengthen the assembly. Simple as that?
Also, planning on trimming the mount as shown. Guys that have done this, you comfortable with this map?
PS: Must have been the first day for a newly hired welder on the K-Frame line in 1970 as this one went through. .
What’s the deal with the steering box flange that captures the output shaft? It appears as though if I bury the steering arm as far up the shaft as possible, it’ll clear this flange and bolt up, and the flange captures the steering box similar to the idler arm opposite to strengthen the assembly. Simple as that?
Also, planning on trimming the mount as shown. Guys that have done this, you comfortable with this map?
PS: Must have been the first day for a newly hired welder on the K-Frame line in 1970 as this one went through. .
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Looks like someone had a plan for sector shaft reinforcement...
Yes that’s exactly what I did also.
dvw
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This is what my K frame looks like. It has 2 pieces of .090" x .750" moly tube supporting the stock steering box flange. One horizontal and the other at about 45 degrees. Been this 13 years with lots of wheelies. Spot welded flanges removed. Center cut for loan clearance. I did weigh it but that was years ago. And I know Lee will chastize me for the mounting bolts being too long adding weight.
Doug
Doug
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fullmetaljacket
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YO! yo, yo, yo YO! If those bolts are going to be that long, I'm bringing a Dremel cut off wheel the next time I go to the D.
LemonWedge
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Motor mounts gone. Guess I’m committed to the motorplate now. Still a lot to do; Trim the pinchweld shelf next. Then all the welding and probably some body filler before paint. But I’m pretty encouraged by what I’m seeing so far.
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What I did to my steering mounting boss was add a wall to box it in for reinforcement, though as its looks now, it should be strong with those two vertical walls. Once you finish all the surgical removal and sanding, it will look great under a nice coat of satin or gloss black.
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