removing brake booster in AC car

[davek]

1970 charger with AC. I searched it and everyone says use swivel on socket. Its the top right corner one. AC box is in the way. Can it be done?Was going to drop steering column to get to it. Thanks for any help. Im not ready to pull the dash but might just go that route.

 

[AR67GTX]

Not sure I know anything to help you but I converted my 67 factory AC GTX to power brakes with the correct mount, etc and don’t recall any great difficulty in getting under dash access to the bolts. It was a while back, maybe someone with a better memory will refresh mine.

 

[Kern Dog]

I just added a OEM style booster to my Charger. Beforehand, it had a 73-76 A body booster setup.
I have aftermarket A/C so the whole unit is smaller.
Back before I changed to this aftermarket A/C system, I had a factory A/C unit in the car and I still was able to get to all the bolts for the back side of the brake brackets and such. The stock booster have the 4 bolts spaced evenly so the top 2 are higher up than the top 2 on manual brake cars.
You would be wise to at least remove the steering wheel for better access. Better yet, leave the steering wheel and remove the seat. Have adequate lighting, have tools nearby. I used a combination of 3",6" and 10" 3/8" extensions, swivel sockets, U-joint adapters and a cordless ratchet. It helps to pack the end of the sockets with something to hold the nuts in while you're removing them.....otherwise, they fall out and sometimes get behind the carpet.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

What I use is a 1/4" drive 1/2" deep socket, a 1/4" drive swivel, and a 12" 1/4" drive extension... And obviously a 1/4" drive ratchet.... wrap the swivel with a layer of electrical tape... If you can see the nut & you can.. You can get that combination of stuff to fit over the nut, once it's on it's a simple matter of unscrewing the nut...

 

[1 Wild R/T]

As Greg mentioned, Yes remove the seat... Yes some goo in the socket helps not lose nuts... Personally I use a longer extension to get my hands away from all the sharp stuff under the dash.... 3/8" drive works but 1/4" drive allows everything to have just a little more room...

 

[Kern Dog]

The 1/4" drive stuff would be slimmer and fit better but my selection of 1/4" drive stuff is meager.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The 1/4" drive stuff would be slimmer and fit better but my selection of 1/4" drive stuff is meager.

You need to work on that... The more I turned wrenches the more I found 1/4" drive is easier to use..

 

[Kern Dog]

I'll gladly trade a stash of early A body parts for some 1/4" drive sockets, extensions, ratchets and swivels....

 

[R413]

Take the steering column out of the car, much easier, but still not fun.

 

[Kern Dog]

???
Screw that… carefully disconnecting the wiring, lining up the coupler, all the hardware to remove….

The seat or steering wheel should be enough unless you are a very large person.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Yup, no chance I'd pull the column....

Here's a few tools that might be worth putting in your box...

Amazon product ASIN B0BPXGDN2F
Amazon product ASIN B000NI938Y
Amazon product ASIN B07QJ81SK4

 

[Kern Dog]

You need to work on that... The more I turned wrenches the more I found 1/4" drive is easier to use..

 

[R413]

Wow, I never knew it was difficult to remove a steering column. Several ways to do it, choose your methods accordingly.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Wow, I never knew it was difficult to remove a steering column. Several ways to do it, choose your methods accordingly.

It's not, but it's also completely unnecessary..

 

[kiwigtx]

It helps to pack the end of the sockets with something to hold the nuts in while you're removing them.....otherwise, they fall out and sometimes get behind the carpet.

PVC electrical tape works well for that - or Bluetack.......it holds the nuts like Greg says. I have been doing that for years on machinery. Just pull off some tape and ball it up - sticky side outwards.....stuff it into the socket - and the nut will stick to it.

 

[kiwigtx]

wrap the swivel with a layer of electrical tape

That is great advice, and just what I was thinking as I typed my reply above - the tape will stop the swivel going all over the place and drooping as you feed the extension assembly up to the stud area under the dash.

 

[Kern Dog]

I have this black tape that is for athletes...I used to go through a LOT of it to cover up cuts on my hands. It is cloth and will damn near stick to Vaseline.
It is a great tape for a variety of uses.

 

[kiwigtx]

It is cloth and will damn near stick to Vaseline.

Please don't share any pictures of how you know this.

 

[multimopes]

It is cloth and will damn near stick to Vaseline

You wouldn't be referring to "friction tape" would you? It's been widely used to wrap the blade of hockey sticks and baseball bats for as long as I can remember! It is getting hard to find these days. I bought a roll at my local hardware store & the clerks had never heard of it before. It is tacky on both sides, but inside more than outside.

 

[YY1]

For working on the brake M/C-booster and a few other things in that area, I've found "medium depth" sockets work best.

Standard depth doesn't clear the long bolts/studs and deep well causes problems with tight clearances at the heel/ratchet end.

Stanley makes some nice medium depth sets that are readily available at wal-mart of all places.

Those, a fine tooth ratchet with an external wheel, and some short "wobbly" extensions should go far in helping get things done (or undone) in that area.