Nope, a little more looking around shows that the big block and small blocks use the same part number lifter so I'm back to square one. I guess I'll pull them and send them back.
Restomod charger pics
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I'm surprised... that's weird Comp Cams said "they don't want you to prime the oil system/pump to get the lifters full" ?????, it also lubes the shafts & rocker too, adding/taking clearances away, to be dead on, like as if it were running... Humm I always when installing new rockers & shaft when doing the initial adjustments, I re-prime especially with a hydraulic lifter/camshaft {distributor & pump drive shaft out, spin the oil pump priming rod with a drill, counterclockwise, If I remember correctly} every time I turn the engine, even if it's only 90* at a time, just to make sure any of the lifters, that may have been compressed & loss of any oil are always fully pumped up, the shafts are lubed & rockers are full of oil, then not only do I wiggle them up & down, "I like to spin & wiggle them while adjusting them", after re-priming & the valves closed, that your working on/adjusting & on the bottom side of the base-circle on the camshaft, when you spin the push-rods, there should be a very slight resistance & no wiggle... if that mad any sense
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do it like they are solid lifter camshaft adjustment, with valve closed & with a 0.005" feeler gauge, adjust until you get resistance on the feeler gauge, remove the feeler gauge, then turn a full turn {"if" that's the proper camshaft/lifter "pre-load" suggested from the camshaft/lifter mfgr.} & check by spinning the push rod, you should have a slight resistance while turning them....
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do it like they are solid lifter camshaft adjustment, with valve closed & with a 0.005" feeler gauge, adjust until you get resistance on the feeler gauge, remove the feeler gauge, then turn a full turn {"if" that's the proper camshaft/lifter "pre-load" suggested from the camshaft/lifter mfgr.} & check by spinning the push rod, you should have a slight resistance while turning them....
Yeah, they said in they're instructions to not do the oil bath priming but I guess there isn't much difference whether it's primed in an oil bath or pumped up by the oil system other than the lifters would be already preloaded "maybe that's the reason". I would never consider firing a new motor without priming the pump and I did prime it. I did all that you explained, wiggle, twist and cuss. Unlike most lifters these have almost no resistence when twisting, you can wiggle them until tight and then twist and there's virtually no difference. The last time I did it I tried the feeler gauge (.0015) and there is no noticeable difference when you hit zero, feels the same as just the weight of the rocker on it. I'm fed up with it, these things just don't feel right. Thanks
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I LMFAO when I read that, I completely understand your frustrations, are the lifters an "anti-pump up" style or "variable duration" style of lifter ?? just curious, if so, maybe that may be a reason for the different feeling when adjusting them, I'm out of ideas....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-822-16/overview/make/dodge No it says nothing about that but hears a link to the ones I appear to have. By the way I'm glad I could offer a little humor although it wasn't meant be. Thanks Bud
Well not allot has been going on, getting ready for a big job at work and working more hours:angry1:. But on a good note we are finally finishing up our woodshop which means that I'm about to reclaim my garage when all of the woodworking stuff goes out:hello2:, I'll post before and afters of my mess. My plans (that never work out) at the moment are as follows, touch up doors jams and spray the whole car in sealer by the end of this coming weekend and paint it the following weekend. The big "if" is as usual getting the wife to give me the go ahead to buy the paint (1,000). Crossing my fingures.
Made a trip to Summit today so I could measure fan clutch's, I bought a Hayden (Flexalites are a 1/2" longer) and a 17" Flexalite fan. I might have to trim the end of the water pump snout off to get it on without scuffing the radiator, once on it will have at least a 1/2 clearance to the radiator "tight". While I was their I had them pull a 18"X11" 427 Cobra wheel (American Racing) off the shelf to look at "sweat". Now to figure if it will fit with the tire bulge, I opened up the outer wheel well and have 14" from fender lip to the inside of the inner tub. The 11" rim measures 12" outside to outside "what do you think" would a 12" wide tire look good on a 12" wide wheel or should I go with a 10" wide rim or better yet can I run a slightly wider tire. I know this thing is going to need all the tire it can get but not sure how much clearance I'll need, is a 1/2" on each side enough? I ordered the paint today as well, boy I'll be in the dog house when she finds out.
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
I keep thinking the 10 in rim would be the better choice but i will be interested in what others say.. Around where i live, 1/2 on each side would probably get me in trouble, i don't have all that much more then 1/2 and ive noticed where i go over a hump in the road the raised white letters are being cut away and my tires in the back measuring across the bulge is 10 in.. Keep the faith, she knows you had to buy the paint sometime anyway, We can only hope you have a large dog house if not! 
You guys are probably right, I should stick to the original plan 10" rim with a 12" tire leaving 1" of clearance on each side "man I wish I would have mini tubbed it now". Should also have the material to build my stainless mufflers by the weekend, I will be making them to exit out the side in front of the rear tires. Now if I could just get out of working every Saturday so I can get something done. Oh well, at least I'm working.
Hears what I've been up to. The tranny is another side job for funds (jeep 5 speed). I really hate Mopars pulley and bracket setups, there must be a million different combo but I think I've finally figured out what I needed. The pulley in the picture is a 3 3/4 deep 3 groove that is an 1/8 from hitting the fan "ouch". After some shopping on ebay it looks as though they also make a 3 groove that is only 3-3 1/8 deep which looks like it will work. I already made the alt bracket and robbed a power steering pump off an old motorhome with a 440 in it so I think I'm on my way. Pay no attention to the rough cut out for the fan in the shroud "it's just a rough cut" I'll later clean it up and weld a 3" wide strip of aluminum around it. As you can see I blotched my door jams, first time using a two stage base and because the corner of the door jam got more paint it bled threw the orange causing me to give it more time to dry which lead to the clear not sticking properly. It needed a little feathering which resulted in sanding threw the orange so hear I am repainting the jams "great". I used paint stripper on the pump and had to make a pulley puller to get the pulley off for a good cleaning, sure is nice having a lathe. I also had a little extra time to install some more insulation. Now for the bad news, do to medical expense's (my wife) the Charger will likely be put on the financial backburner until next year, and can't even begin to tell you how bad I wanted to drive it and I was so close. :icon_pale: I did happen to finally pull the lifters and get them sent back to Comp, they called today and said "yeap they aren't any good and will send a new set" I have to admit I'm a little leery about installing them. I likely spend my time buildind the custom mufflers and shaker hood now that any hope for money has vanished. By the way, since when do hospitals force all of your bill to be paid in one year "that's a lot of doe" especially when you have weakly 200.00 physical theropy bills on top of that.
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Thanks, I shouldn't be such a butt-head laughing, but I've been there too, that's what I was laughing at, not you or your situation particularly... sorry for all your grief, isn't car building a hoot sometimes ??....
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looks like enough clearance on the fan to me, progress at-least...
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I wish we had a Summit Racing Store closer, that I could walk into, closest one is 3-4 hrs away in Reno/Sparks area Nevada... I get stuff the next day, after ordering in the afternoon allot, when they have it in stock in the Reno store, with no extra shipping charges, so it's hardly worth the long drive both ways, unless I'm already in the area... Only a few things come from the Ohio Location.... I use them allot great service &/or help or even return policies, if I or they rarely mess up too...
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who's brand of sound deadening is that ??
Yeah, it's a hoot alright. I honestly really enjoy building it or other things for that matter it's just the stupid things that you shouldn't have to deal with that get aggravating. The sound deadening is Bonded Logic from Summit, I chose it because of it's price per quantity, to me the prices that some of the more well known brands ask is robbery "it's insulation for crying out loud". Anyways, it worked really well and formed to the floor really well, the only problem I had was the thickness combined with the carpet makes the studs in the gas pedal to short. I do love being only 1 hour and 15 min away from Summit.
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Bonded Logic, Summit Racing I will check it out, thanks for the heads up...
That's the million dollar question, I was going to paint it in two weeks but medical bills put an end to that so I really don't know if I'll get it done at all this summer.:angry1: The lifters are on they're way so I hope that clears that up and I think I got a big enough fan on it now so I got my fingers crossed.
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I would recommend they're "sticky stuff" adhesive as well, it goes on really heavy and really works unlike some of the adhesives that go on like paint.
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Why didn't I think of this sooner, a four groove fit great except for it being to close to the fan and I didn't need the outer one so off it came. Now for a little fine tuning, sandblasting and paint, another problem behind me.
Propwash
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Hope all is well with the wife and your therapy... Work is looking good!
Not my therapy, it's all her. I think seeing what she is going threw made me forget about my problems. Thanks
Got some stainless for my mufflers today and thought I'd see whether or not my break would bend it "no problem". While I was in the garage I drew up a plan for my muffler, super 40 flowmaster is the goal. For those who haven't read my post, I love side exit exhaust and with all the things in the way and little space for mufflers ahead of the rear seat I'm building my own mufflers that will turn the exhaust and dump them out 1"X10" tips. The tips will open up a bit (1.5X10) for a little better look at the exit. So what do you think, will they work? The car is ridiculously loud right now so I'm hoping this will be enough if not I'll add some more baffles.
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I think the mufflers should work, IMHFO gonna be loud thou, the exit out the sides, ahead of the tires, always help to make allot of noise too, especially when the windows are down or bouncing off objects/cars next to you {tailpipe exit out the rear helps to drowned out some noise}, the flared flat trumpet style exhaust tips, for lack of a better description, sounds like it will be innovative/cool looking too... it's all music to my ears either way, these cars are supposed to be loud...
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