Retro Stereos

[The Godfather]

I want to install a retro stereo with Bluetooth in my 65 Satellite. I'm not feeling like cutting the dash for a half din. But I want good sound. I'll be running a rockford Fosgate punch amp class D for power to a pair of 6x9 Alpine R 2ways.
Are the retros worth the money? Anyone running a similar setup. My 65 is pretty loud at 800hp with a 505 with 3 1/2 exhaust.
I'm looking for suggestions

 

[Don67Satellite]

If you don't wanna cut up the dash, then your decision is already made.

I think those retro sound type radios have outputs for external amps and things if I remember reading correctly.

Since you desire good sound, for bluetooth, the streaming quality you have will matter, as will any mp3 encoding quality. Higher the quality of input audio will help any audio processor it may have. Then of course down the line to your speakers...

Can't polish a turd.

 

[BigFlo]

I just installed a RetroSound unit in my 65 Belvedere. The Motor 4HD unit has Bluetooth among a lot of other features. Google RetroSound. I don’t run a separate amp. I run two 4-way 6x9’s in the back plus two tweeters in the center front speaker position, off the radio amp plus a powered 8” sub in the trunk. I like the sound but I haven’t run it while on the road yet - I’m still debugging the car as I just got it running 3 weeks ago and don’t have it aligned yet.
Post 65 in my build thread shows a few pics of the RetroSound unit I bought.
1965 Belvedere I Sedan

 

[Photon440]

If your car is really loud so you want a powerful stereo to punch through all that, you'll end up with hearing loss.

 

[ruffcut]

What did Photon 440 say? I couldn't hear him.
I suggest just listening to the music coming from the rear of the car, ie the exhaust notes.
I have a retrosound setup in my RR and don't care for it.
The exhaust is pretty loud and I also have hearing loss so it really doesn't matter.
JMO ruffcut

 

[shooter65]

Tayman Electrical stereo solutions for collector cars

Stereo Conversions, new stereos, speakers and accessories, for antique and collector vehicles

taymanelectrical.com

Talk to this guy, I think he'll work with you to design what you need.

 

[Dako]

http://[URL]https://taymanelectrical.com/

[/URL]

Talk to this guy, I think he'll work with you to design what you need.

Gary modded my stock, original AM radio...It now plays AM/FM and has mp3 . I have been VERY happy with the results.

 

[RemCharger]

I thought a class D amp was more for sub applications

 

[Demonic]

I have a Retrosound thumbwheel in my 69 Charger. I bought it second hand on here, or maybe B Body sister site. It takes a bit to but it together and install. The display, knobs, and chassis are separate and you piece it together. It does not install as quickly as a stock radio. I have no idea how a twin-shaft would be. The sound is great with a pair of 6x9's in the back and a dual coil replacement in front. I'm actually going to sell it, as I want the "stock" look of a converted one. There's a slight difference in the display, and the numbering is a vinyl overlay.

 

[JR_Charger]

How did you guys support the head unit in the back? I'm looking for a place to attach the included brace but the windshield defroster duct is right above the head unit. I might be able to go further back into the dash and drill into what looks like another duct under the windshield. It would be nice if there was an existing bolt I could put the brace on.

It seems like this stud on the side of the factory head unit went to a supporting brace, but I don't see one under the dash -

In this pic, you can see the shape of a bracket around the stud. What went there?

 

[440 PHIXX]

I thought a class D amp was more for sub applications

Class D amps can be used for anything. A lot of new studio monitors for recording or just a music workstation are class D. They require less power because they are only active when they receive an input.

 

[BigFlo]

How did you guys support the head unit in the back? I'm looking for a place to attach the included brace but the windshield defroster duct is right above the head unit.

In my 65 the windshield wiper motor mount is above that area so I used one of those mounting points. Not the best photo….

 

[JR_Charger]

In my 65 the windshield wiper motor mount is above that area so I used one of those mounting points. Not the best photo….

View attachment 1561124

It's fascinating to see how things were done in prior years, but everything was different by 72.

I'm considering supporting the unit from below. At the moment I've got a bunch of foam wedged between the head unit and the dash, which would be fine if not for all the cooling holes in the bottom of the head unit. I could cut the top and bottom off a pill bottle and use that as a wedge. It might squeek and rattle or wear the paint off the unit over time. If no one has a better idea, I believe I'll give that a try. If I look around the garage, I may even come up with something better. I've often had a piece of junk I stored away for no good reason suddenly, after being in my way for years, turn out to be just the thing I need right now.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

How did you guys support the head unit in the back? I'm looking for a place to attach the included brace but the windshield defroster duct is right above the head unit. I might be able to go further back into the dash and drill into what looks like another duct under the windshield. It would be nice if there was an existing bolt I could put the brace on.

It seems like this stud on the side of the factory head unit went to a supporting brace, but I don't see one under the dash -

View attachment 1561089

View attachment 1561090

In this pic, you can see the shape of a bracket around the stud. What went there?

Is that not the original radio support strap in one of your pictures? Under the windshield? The plenum? I wouldn’t be drilling into that.

 

[JR_Charger]

Is that not the original radio support strap in one of your pictures? Under the windshield? The plenum? I wouldn’t be drilling into that.



View attachment 1561281View attachment 1561283

Well that makes all the sense in the world, doesn't it? So where does that green ground wire for the instrument cluster go? The one I have incorrectly "grounded" (or not grounded, no wonder I'm having ground issues!) to the bracket for the radio?

I thought I had cleverly solved my mounting problem with an L bracket that I found -

- that will work fine, but maybe there's an even better way to do it.

 

[JR_Charger]

After inspecting the bracket I have a ground on, it does indeed appear to be a ground. There' s an S-clip for the pictured screw over the hole that the radio used to use. I wouldn't have put anything like that in place, not by accident anyway.

I wired the front speakers to the output cable for the Retrosound head unit today. The speaker wire was 16 gauge, but the wire coming off the head unit is 18 gauge. I'm surprised to see the head unit use 18 gauge wire, when Retrosound's center dash speaker uses 16 gauge.

I also managed to run one 16 gauge wire to a rear speaker negative terminal. I've got a role of 14 gauge which I recall using to wire door speakers on another car. 14 is a lot bigger than 18. I don't know if I should use the 14 for the rear speakers or not. There must be a reason why I was told to use it on the other car, and I wonder if I should go to a separate amp would I need a 14 gauge wire? I sure would hate to have to tear the interiour out again to put a 14 gauge wire in, if I used a 16 now.

BTW, does the wiring for the passenger side rear speaker go down the passenger side of the cab, or cross over in the trunk and run down the driver's side of the cab?

 

[BigFlo]

Best practice is do not run power wires and speaker wires together. If you have power running down either side, run speakers wires on the other side.

 

[Sinitro]

In my 70RR...
The factory support bracket lined up perfectly with the rear panel mounting stud on my Pioneer single din CD player..

Just my $0.02...

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

BTW, does the wiring for the passenger side rear speaker go down the passenger side of the cab, or cross over in the trunk and run down the driver's side of the cab?

There was never a true stereo rear speaker configuration from the factory. Speaker level signals are not susceptible to induced noise, run speaker wiring wherever you want. Line level signals/cabling should be routed away from any heavy loaded power cables to prevent induced noise.

 

[JR_Charger]

I didn't put that clip and screw there. Is it possible the radio stud sits in the notch above the ground screw? I'd love to see what other 72 owners have.