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Right Stuff rear disc without green bearings!

747mopar

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I've been wanting to switch to rear disc for awhile now but not being a priority it hasn't happened... until now. I was at Summit and came across this kit for a 9" Ford for $75 in the scratch and dent sale.... holy cow, I jumped all over it! Knowing the 9" and 8.75" are very close in design and Right Stuff uses basically all the same parts for the Mopar kit why not. The brackets are the only real difference and not wanting to switch to green bearings means I'd have to make my own anyhow so here we go.
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If that is the same kit I got, It does require green style bearings. When I bought mine from PST, it did not say on the website but the first thing on the directions said it did need green bearings. I have a 72 roadrunner so it may be different. That was exactly why I bought it too but thankfully the reara end shop put green bearings in it for me so it was already done. whew!
 
No, different kit. If you read my post I mention that this kit is for a Ford 9" and that I'm not switching to the green bearings which is why it didn't matter to me that it wasn't for the 8.75". I've never understood the desire to take a superior bearing (taper) out and install a lesser bearing (roller). After looking the kit over this will be easy, they require doing away with the tapered bearings because the adjuster doesn't leave enough room for the BOLT ON brackets (I'm just assuming). The bracket that bolts to the bearing plate requires spacers to space the actual caliper bracket back further on the axle so why not just weld the mounting bracket where it belongs and forget all the spacers and bracket that is the cause for having to switch? I emphasized BOLT ON because so much of what's available is made to be a BOLT ON upgrade to attract a larger market but anybody with a welder and proper tools can usually do one better IMO.

Thanks
 
No, different kit. If you read my post I mention that this kit is for a Ford 9" and that I'm not switching to the green bearings which is why it didn't matter to me that it wasn't for the 8.75". I've never understood the desire to take a superior bearing (taper) out and install a lesser bearing (roller). After looking the kit over this will be easy, they require doing away with the tapered bearings because the adjuster doesn't leave enough room for the BOLT ON brackets (I'm just assuming). The bracket that bolts to the bearing plate requires spacers to space the actual caliper bracket back further on the axle so why not just weld the mounting bracket where it belongs and forget all the spacers and bracket that is the cause for having to switch? I emphasized BOLT ON because so much of what's available is made to be a BOLT ON upgrade to attract a larger market but anybody with a welder and proper tools can usually do one better IMO.

Thanks

That makes perfect sense. $75 bucks is a heck of a score too!
 
The reason they want you to go to the green bearing is so there is no end play. Disc brakes on axles with end play will result in brake pad kickback under hard cornering. Set your end play as tight as possible.
 
The reason they want you to go to the green bearing is so there is no end play. Disc brakes on axles with end play will result in brake pad kickback under hard cornering. Set your end play as tight as possible.
Thanks, that's an interesting point. Doesn't the calipers ability to float mean they would follow the axle? Even at that the axles have very little play anyways. Appreciate the tip, I'll keep that in mind.
 
Floating typically means the pads float in the caliper, or at least means they slide on the pins. Most calipers that I've seen all have fixed mounting right to the axle. At least with these axles you can adjust the end play. GM C Clip axles are real tough.
 
Curious about their reasoning I decided to call Right Stuff, what a joke! First time the lady couldn't get me tech support, I could hear her ask someone in the room then replied "they require the green bearing to allow for secure mounting of the bracket". Not happy since I had no idea who she asked I called back later and asked again only this time she answers without hesitation "it's to hold the seal in"????? I politely said... that makes absolutely no sense at all! Sounds like it's for mounting reasons to me and they dont appreciate questions.
 
Wouldn't it mount to the axle flange either way?
 
Timkens require some play cold so when the axles heat up, the bearings etc do not go into bind. If you set them up on the snug side, you may be ok but at the risk of messing up the thrust pin in the center. If you use the cone type SG, it'll have the big heavy duty thrust pin and it will not come out but if you have the clutch type SG, you will probably kill it as it's only two buttons attached with a roll pin.
 
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