rocker arm assembly

[justjim]

had to remove driver side assembly to change a push rod when putting the 5 bolts and torquing them down do i start with the middle one and work my way out to both ends ?? also should the small oil hole in the lifter be pointed a certain way ?? THX.

 

[Mike67]

I always start from the middle and work out.
Small holes go towards exhaust.
Edit -On the shafts

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

 

[IQ52]

Just to be sure........The small hole in the lifter? The small hole in a flat tappet hydraulic lifter can go in any location as it will rotate in the lifter bore as the engine is running.

 

[justjim]

Just to be sure........The small hole in the lifter? The small hole in a flat tappet hydraulic lifter can go in any location as it will rotate in the lifter bore as the engine is running.

yes the small hole in the lifter

 

[gkent]

The shafts only call for something like 25 ft/lbs. It doesn't matter where you start BUT you should snug them down evenly across the 5 bolts - a little at a time. Keep in mind that while you're tightening those down, the valvesprings are being compressed which puts a strain on the shafts. If you tighten down any one of those bolts on their own, the shaft will flex. Not a good thing.

The stock shafts are thin enough to pinch at the bolts - probably the reason for the low torque spec. If using aftermarket shafts, I'd bump the torque up to a more common 30 ft/lbs.

 

[justjim]

The shafts only call for something like 25 ft/lbs. It doesn't matter where you start BUT you should snug them down evenly across the 5 bolts - a little at a time. Keep in mind that while you're tightening those down, the valvesprings are being compressed which puts a strain on the shafts. If you tighten down any one of those bolts on their own, the shaft will flex. Not a good thing.

The stock shafts are thin enough to pinch at the bolts - probably the reason for the low torque spec. If using aftermarket shafts, I'd bump the torque up to a more common 30 ft/lbs.

THX