Shorty headers or HP manifolds ?

origcharger

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I ran TTI shorties on the 500 stroker in my 66 Charger on a drag and drive event last summer thinking they had to be better than stock manifolds. The tight bends and collector near the starter gave me all kinds of grief from all the heat in that area, starter, wiring, speedo cable etc. Currently switching to TTIs 1 7/8" full length, low deck specific headers, we'll see how that goes.
 

68 Sport Satellite

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I ran TTI shorties on the 500 stroker in my 66 Charger on a drag and drive event last summer thinking they had to be better than stock manifolds. The tight bends and collector near the starter gave me all kinds of grief from all the heat in that area, starter, wiring, speedo cable etc. Currently switching to TTIs 1 7/8" full length, low deck specific headers, we'll see how that goes.
will love to hear your comparison report. What starter do you have, stock or mini?

I was running HP manifolds and switched to ceramic coated Schumacher tri-Y's for my low deck 451. Seat of pants difference was zero to me. If it did make more power, I can't tell. Spark plug access is better, they look great, underhood temp difference not sure, but I'm on my 3rd starter in less than 10K miles. It's such tight clearance I can't get any shield in there. On the other hand, my friends with TTI long tubes often mention fairly low ground clearance, but may be worth it if I can get more heat away from my mini-starter.
 

origcharger

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will love to hear your comparison report. What starter do you have, stock or mini?

I was running HP manifolds and switched to ceramic coated Schumacher tri-Y's for my low deck 451. Seat of pants difference was zero to me. If it did make more power, I can't tell. Spark plug access is better, they look great, underhood temp difference not sure, but I'm on my 3rd starter in less than 10K miles. It's such tight clearance I can't get any shield in there. On the other hand, my friends with TTI long tubes often mention fairly low ground clearance, but may be worth it if I can get more heat away from my mini-starter.
Since mine is a low deck engine the only starter that works with the TTI shorties was a 3005 RobbMc starter with the solenoid rotated towards the bottom, after the drag and drive event I installed an insulating wrap around the starter that fastens with velcro.
The long tube 1 7/8" TTI headers I am installing are for low deck engines only and the ground clearance is very good, I will try and get some pictures posted
 

origcharger

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Since mine is a low deck engine the only starter that works with the TTI shorties was a 3005 RobbMc starter with the solenoid rotated towards the bottom, after the drag and drive event I installed an insulating wrap around the starter that fastens with velcro.
The long tube 1 7/8" TTI headers I am installing are for low deck engines only and the ground clearance is very good, I will try and get some pictures posted

A4C9D4E1-5A12-42AB-AD00-5E5A438C3B6B.jpeg


E3DADECC-5E53-46EC-879B-6D7CF0A77E95.jpeg
 

origcharger

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Here is the TTI shorty driver’s side setup I took off, note the sharp bend after the collector to clear torsion bar, I would assume pipe designed for an RB engine would have a gentler bend

5248BF57-8428-4756-872A-7FED45CD249C.jpeg
 

68 Sport Satellite

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Looking good. Can you post a photo showing the Robb MC mini starter and clearance between that starter and both the block and new long tube headers?
 

origcharger

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Will do when installation is complete, meanwhile here is picture of heat wrap and RobbMc starter with solenoid rotated to top side as will be needed with the long tube headers

478F6C58-DEF0-4219-8239-695FB886F934.jpeg
 

OKDart

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Have had hooker long tube headers on the 68 roadrunner since I put it together 20 years ago. I’ll be changing the steering box to a Bergman/Borgeson soon, so the header on the left must come out. Considering changing to shorty style, either Hedman, Sanderson, or TTI.
I’m tired of dragging the flange on speed bumps, and the Hookers have rust spots, even though they had Hookers ceramic coating when new.
OR…HP manifolds ? Engine is a 383, Hughes cam, 750 Holley vac secondary, edelbrock performer RPM, 906 heads, Mopar electronic ignition.
Like to hear some input on which one. Shortys or HP manifolds ?
Thanks much !

View attachment 1170527
Old post, but they make ceramic coated header polish that cleans them up nicely. It got rid of all the rust spots on mine.

Car Chemistry CGHP6 Car Chemistry Cerma-Glow Metallic Ceramic Header Polish | Summit Racing
 

OKDart

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Schumacher tri-Y's are nice too if you're not going to run a long tube header. Super thick flanges and well made. They offer ceramic coating as well, which is what I'm running in my 451. I was running HP manifolds before. The Schumachers may have added some measurable HP and torque, but I honestly couldn't tell by seat of pants feel. They also didn't have as deep an exhaust note as the HP manifolds (since they're headers), but spark plug access and weight reduction is improved.
I liked the Schumacher tri y headers too. Head pipe was easy, I just welded their flange to a 60 degree?? Mandrel bend.
I don’t think you can get new ones anymore though.
I went from TTI 1 7/8 long tubes in a 1970 Charger, and put the entire drivetrain (engine, trans, rear end) in a 1968 Dart. The only difference was the headers and CH4B intake vs RPM intake. The car was maybe 3-400 lbs lighter, but it didn’t feel like I gave up any power. Engine was a mild 440 with RPM heads.
 
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Schumacher CS

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I liked the Schumacher tri y headers too. Head pipe was easy, I just welded their flange to a 60 degree?? Mandrel bend.
I don’t think you can get new ones anymore though.
I went from TTI 1 7/8 long tubes in a 1970 Charger, and put the entire drivetrain (engine, trans, rear end) in a 1968 Dart. The only difference was the headers and CH4B intake vs RPM intake. The car was maybe 3-400 lbs lighter, but it didn’t feel like I gave up any power. Engine was a mild 440 with RPM heads.
New Schumacher Tri-Y headers are still available. Both coated and uncoated are in stock. :)

Big Block Tri-Y Under Chassis Headers
 

Steve Belt

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Have had hooker long tube headers on the 68 roadrunner since I put it together 20 years ago. I’ll be changing the steering box to a Bergman/Borgeson soon, so the header on the left must come out. Considering changing to shorty style, either Hedman, Sanderson, or TTI.
I’m tired of dragging the flange on speed bumps, and the Hookers have rust spots, even though they had Hookers ceramic coating when new.
OR…HP manifolds ? Engine is a 383, Hughes cam, 750 Holley vac secondary, edelbrock performer RPM, 906 heads, Mopar electronic ignition.
Like to hear some input on which one. Shortys or HP manifolds ?
Thanks much !

View attachment 1170527
Thinking about doing the bergman steering conversion and also have the long tubes. I'm concerned I'll need to drop the k member and engine so i can get the headers out of the way. Do plan to do that?
 

origcharger

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Thinking about doing the bergman steering conversion and also have the long tubes. I'm concerned I'll need to drop the k member and engine so i can get the headers out of the way. Do plan to do that?
I have dropped the k member before and left the engine in place by placing a 2x4 across the frame rails and resting the water pump on it…
 

417guy

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Thinking about doing the bergman steering conversion and also have the long tubes. I'm concerned I'll need to drop the k member and engine so i can get the headers out of the way. Do plan to do that?
As it turned out, didn’t need to remove the driver side header at all. Remove battery, battery mount, and ps pump. The oem ps box lifts out the top with my old hooker long tubes in place ! Had to jack up engine after pulling the motor mount bolts, though. So I’m still running the old hookers. No leaks, but the passenger side hangs 3/4” lower than the drivers. Header flange will catch on some speed bumps. But car sits about 1-1/2” lower than stock. If I cut off the header flanges and use a v band that will gain me about 3/4” of clearance. That’s the plan when I replace the exhaust. pipes and mufflers are over 20 years old, too !
 

Timmayy

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New Schumacher Tri-Y headers are still available. Both coated and uncoated are in stock. :)

Big Block Tri-Y Under Chassis Headers
I am glad I searched around and found this discussion. I ordered TTI headers in October and they are still on backorder. I went to Schummacher and just ordered what I need and it's in stock ready to ship. I cancelled the TTIs.
 

Timmayy

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Since all you guys are running headers, What shield do you put around your starter? That would be the next thing I order.
 

417guy

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Since all you guys are running headers, What shield do you put around your starter? That would be the next thing I order.
I have old hooker long tubes and and a mini starter from 440 source. Been on there since 2006, about 30000 miles ago. No heat shield. Still works fine .
 

RemCharger

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I have old hooker long tubes and and a mini starter from 440 source. Been on there since 2006, about 30000 miles ago. No heat shield. Still works fine .
I've had many different header combos but never a heat shield with ministarters. I agree
 

Timmayy

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Yeah it seems that the only thing that sounded positive was to beef up the cables and wrap the headers near the starter.
 
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