So tell me if this combo sounds like a winner or a weiner

[451Mopar]

Just scanned through this. Combination looks OK. Put it together, use good oil and break-in additive, prime the oil system, and get it tuned correctly. You will need the MSD dist advance kit if it did not come with the distributor. I would try the blue bushing, and the two blue light springs, then set initial timming to about 16 degrees. This should give you 36-37 degrees all in around 2,800 RPM.

 

[fatecaptured]

Ok Guy's I'm getting ready for the fire up of this hog. I've swapped out the electric fan for a flex fan. I don't have a shroud on it. Also I bought the spring and bushing advance kit for the MSD. Mentioned earlier, I'm looking at swapping in the light blue springs and bushing. Should I set my distributor at 40* BTD for fire up? I'm going by what the word is on here and the Smother video (How To Super Tune!) . Just have a few more questions before I go ahead with it.

1). Springs. Can I break it in with the selected springs or do I need to swap in weaker springs? Spring pressure is unknown.
2). Some say to rev the engine to 2000-2200 rpm for 20 minutes to break in the cam and some say don't. Who's right?
3). Should I change the oil after the 20 minutes or 500 miles?

I realize I have only one shot to get it right and I alone will be the only one to do this task. So hoping for the best result here. Thanx guys !

 

[451Mopar]

I did a quick scan of the posts, but did not see what springs you are using? usually if they are dual springs, break-in with just the outer spring.
The thing is to use a good break-in oil, or at least a good oil with a ZDDP oil additive. When the engine starts you want to run it at mid level RPMs from 2,000-3,500 so oil gets splashed up onto the camshaft. I like leaving the break-in oil in the engine for first 100 miles or so then change it and the filter. When I change the oil, I also add another bottle of ZDDP additive.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If it's a flat tappet camshaft, it HAS to have a break in period at RPM from 2000-3500 for 15 minutes or so. Rollers don't require this. Also as 451Mopar said, it's a good idea to remove the inner springs on a dual spring setup for break in. That's inner SPRINGS, not the flat wire dampers. They don't qualify as a spring and can stay put.

 

[fatecaptured]

Just a thought. But if I put the light blue springs in the msd and a blue bushing, where should I set the initial timing? I was watching the video and taking notes on starting it with 40* timing. But I didn't take into consideration that they had the dizzy locked out. So with should I go 10* or 12* advanced?
What are signs of whipping out a lobe? I haven't fired it yet. But just wanting to know what to look for. Also what's the best way to prime a avs edelbrock?

- - - Updated - - -

Ron, to recap. I have a .060 440 with .509 114 cl purple cam w/ single valve spring. TRW 2355f60 pisons and 452 heads. All MSD ignition ( 6AL, pro billet mech advance , blaster 2 coil) and 3500 stall verter. Mechanical fuel pump(carter) and 800 cfm thunder avs. NKG v plugs and MSD 8.5 wires.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I dont get caught up in trying to figure out where my timing is right off the bat. I'll tell you how I do it.....and I'm sure I'll get flamed. But this has worked well for me for a long time.

Once I get everything ready to fire, I bust it off and bring it up to cam break in speed. Then I put one hand on the valve cover so I can feel the engine. I slowly advance the timing until I feel the engine "roughen up" through the valve cover, then I back off the timing until that extra roughness stops and lock it down and let her break in. After break in, I nail down all the tuning. Never had a problem doing it like that.

 

[451Mopar]

If it's a flat tappet camshaft, it HAS to have a break in period at RPM from 2000-3500 for 15 minutes or so. Rollers don't require this. Also as 451Mopar said, it's a good idea to remove the inner springs on a dual spring setup for break in. That's inner SPRINGS, not the flat wire dampers. They don't qualify as a spring and can stay put.

The blue bushing is about 20 degrees mechanical advance, all in around 2,800 RPM. If you set the initial to 16, that should give about 36 total

 

[fatecaptured]

Got it fired up and broke in tonight. Doesn't idle lower than 1200 rpm though. Ran out of gas twice.

 

[RustyRatRod]

When the rings break in and it loosens up, it will idle down. Also too it would not hurt to look for a vacuum leak. You may also actually have too much timing in it. That can cause it to idle too high. It won't hurt it to have too much timing at beakin, becaus eit's not under load and won't detonate. But not having enough timing can be detrimental. I bet when you get it all ironed out, it'll be a beast. Congrats on gettin it runnin.

 

[fatecaptured]

Thanks Ron. I would have some video to post, I let an 11 year old video tape. So I got video of the cracks in the drive and the crack of my *** but thats about it....lol

 

[snakeoil24]

Dont worry about converter, big motors like em. Please don't fire the motor up on synthetic oil unless your a complete idiot!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks Ron. I would have some video to post, I let an 11 year old video tape. So I got video of the cracks in the drive and the crack of my *** but thats about it....lol

That's a video that you better save.

 

[fatecaptured]

Royal purple break in oil isn't synthetic.. It's on par with Brad Penn but not Joe Gibbs. Joe Gibbs is ranked at the top for break in oils. I studied everything out three- four times and asked a lot of questions before I did this. So I do admit I'm not the brightest, but I have enough sense to study up on this stuff.