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So tell me if this combo sounds like a winner or a weiner

Here's why they recommended that converter. You need it. That camshaft has 248.5* of duration @.050", plus it's ground on 108* lobe centers. It's a BIG hydraulic camshaft, even for a big block. If you got the valvetrain and head work for it, it'll keep pullin to 7K. Also, what rear gear? Either I missed it, or you didn't post it. I would recommend a 4.10 with a 27" tall tire max. Any taller and I'd say 4.30. I say run what you have since it's already together. It'll run good......absolutely true though, is what Meep-Meep said. You can do it with less camshaft.........but then you need less stall, less gear, you get the picture. You'd need to change the whole package. The package is good, long as you don't mind the deep gears it will NEED.

I haven't touched the gears, i believe there stock highway gears, and i checked once, one tire spins one way, the other spins the other way. its a 8 3/4 489. I never messed with a rear end besides my old ladies,lol. I could try and change the gears out if they aren't too difficult, i seen that a new pig cost's over a grand now. wow
 
I haven't touched the gears, i believe there stock highway gears, and i checked once, one tire spins one way, the other spins the other way. its a 8 3/4 489. I never messed with a rear end besides my old ladies,lol. I could try and change the gears out if they aren't too difficult, i seen that a new pig cost's over a grand now. wow

Then you got some decision makin to do. Because as of now, you have a terribly mismatched engine/drivetrain. All because of the gear. The choice would be clear for me. Change the ONE thing that doesn't match. That would be a really quick car I believe, with the right gear.
 
I have royal purple break in oil, is that good?

I don't know much about Royal Purple to comment on it's abilities.... I just know that adding ZDDP to regular over the road oil from dept stores doesn't cut it,,, and the oil by itself is probably even worse!
I lost my first build in my 67 Satt as a result,,, and a Co-Worker just lost a 454 in his newly purchased Chevelle. There was another thread on FBBO where we were talking about fuel pump pushrods wearing out as a result too.... I sold a factory one to a member here as a result....
 
Maybe. Look to see how many PPM of zinc it has. I am unfamiliar with it as I run carbon based oils. I'll tell you this......I would NOT fire a new engine up on synthetic. Opinions may vary, but that's my personal preference.

Is it really a synthetic? I hope not. I spent over 100 bucks on that ****.lol Oh i forgot to mention the milodon deep sump pan and windage tray..

Heres what i did when i first installed it(2008). I put a k&n oil filter on it and added like 6 or 7 quarts of regular 10w30. Never primed it, turned it over by hand a few times, but thats it. I was planing of draining that **** and putting in some good break in oil and changing the filter( it has 10w30 in it) and then priming it.

How long should i prime it for and how long do i have before it needs to be fired do i have?
 
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I haven't touched the gears, i believe there stock highway gears, and i checked once, one tire spins one way, the other spins the other way. its a 8 3/4 489. I never messed with a rear end besides my old ladies,lol. I could try and change the gears out if they aren't too difficult, i seen that a new pig cost's over a grand now. wow

Check in the for sale section,,, just seen a complete 8.75 for sale with limited slip (posi)....
 
I don't know much about Royal Purple to comment on it's abilities.... I just know that adding ZDDP to regular over the road oil from dept stores doesn't cut it,,, and the oil by itself is probably even worse!
I lost my first build in my 67 Satt as a result,,, and a Co-Worker just lost a 454 in his newly purchased Chevelle. There was another thread on FBBO where we were talking about fuel pump pushrods wearing out as a result too.... I sold a factory one to a member here as a result....

whats the deal with the fuel pump push rod?
 
Yes, Royal Purple is full synthetic. I don't know anyone that recommends breaking an engine in on synthetic. I've read and heard stories about the synthetic being so slick, that the rings never seat properly. That's not a chance I would want to take. I would break it in on something like Brad Penn regular carbon based oil. It also has a very high ZDDP (zinc) content. Comp Cams also makes some ZDDP break in additive. Whatever you do, I would not break it in on synthetic. JMO.
 
whats the deal with the fuel pump push rod?

Same as the rings. The synthetic is so slick, it does not allow for a good wear pattern. Synthetics ....and this is just my opinion, were really developed with roller cams in mind. When factories all started going roller, you saw the advent of synthetics, PLUS the exit of high zinc content. Flat tappet cams MUST have a good zinc content to break in properly. Some say even to lass as long as possible after break in. I know I will run oil with high ZDDP the entire life of my next flat tappet engine(s).
 
whats the deal with the fuel pump push rod?

It mechanically rides against the pump lobe just like a lifter rides a lobe.... Oil is the only thing separating the two parts, and the zink or (ZDDP) is like little ball bearings suspended within the oil.
I recently wrote on this very topic, and suggested the reader pour regular off the shelf product (oil) into a flat bottomed tub and in another flat bottom tub pour in Brad Penn or Gibbs oil.... If you take your hand and press your palm down through the oil trying to touch the bottom of the tub, you'll notice that the Penn or Gibbs oil prevents you from feeling the bottom,,, the off the shelf stuff doesn't feel the same... You can feel the bottom of the tub as if the oil gets pushed out of the way, unlike the Penn or Gibbs stuff....
 
That's new to me. Never heard of it. Nothing good or bad. Looks awfully new.
 
so if the fuel pump rod contacts the lob like a lifter, whats the procedure for installing the rod? soak it oil or put grease on it? I couldn't find any steps for it, so i just put it in there dry..
 
so if the fuel pump rod contacts the lob like a lifter, whats the procedure for installing the rod? soak it oil or put grease on it? I couldn't find any steps for it, so i just put it in there dry..

Camshaft break in lube. Just like lifters. Regular oil on the sides of it. Reguler oil on the fuel pump end. At least, that's how "I" do it. Opinions may vary.

Just some FYI. Never, ever assemble anything metal to metal dry.
 
Camshaft break in lube. Just like lifters. Regular oil on the sides of it. Reguler oil on the fuel pump end. At least, that's how "I" do it. Opinions may vary.

Just some FYI. Never, ever assemble anything metal to metal dry.

damn it, hope i didn't damage anything, i don't think i've turned it over since i installed the mechanical pump, it was hard to compress when i installed it, that normal? I know , what a retard this guy must be. Just always had an electric before...
 
damn it, hope i didn't damage anything, i don't think i've turned it over since i installed the mechanical pump, it was hard to compress when i installed it, that normal? I know , what a retard this guy must be. Just always had an electric before...

Naw dude, I'm sure you didn't hurt it. Just remove it and lube it like I described and it'll be fine. No way, you ain't a retard. I like readin your posts. You're one of the sharp ones. lol Now me.....I'm a retard.
 
Oh and usually.....something that rubs like a lifter on a lobe or the fuel pump rod END and the fuel pump lobe needs to get camshaft assembly lube. If it slides like a piston in a bore, or a fuel pump rod in its bore, that surface needs motor oil.....or a good assembly oil. Know what I use to assemble an engine besides camshaft assembly lube? Vasoline. Same when I build a transmission. It lubes just enough to lube at start up, but dissolves quickly with engine heat. Been doin it that way almost thirty years and never had a problem. Everybody has their own way and that's mine.
 
Naw dude, I'm sure you didn't hurt it. Just remove it and lube it like I described and it'll be fine. No way, you ain't a retard. I like readin your posts. You're one of the sharp ones. lol Now me.....I'm a retard.

now this is why i can't see how building and engine by a book would work. it's people like you and a place like this that really helps a guy out.

My first ever engine install was 1996, i was 16. Had a hatch back stang. 2.3 four banger. It blew up on the way home. Got a long block from autozone. And bout a haynes or chilton (one or the other). Followed it step by step. I did everything it said to a T. Then i installed the engine. Wouldn't start. Checked everything. Well had to have it towed to a garage. Turns out u can't install a torque converter into the transmission with it attached to the engine... Rookie mistake. Broke the pump in the trans, fried my computer and ended up costing me a butt load...

Thats why i have second thoughts and don't trust books as a sole point of reference. If i had just had an experienced teacher, i could've saved myself a lot of time and coin..
 
Well, not everybody agrees with how I do it, but it's worked well for me. I had a very astute gentleman as my auto mechanics instructor in high school. He was retirement age when he was teaching us. He made his living as a Mercedes Banz tech from the 40s to the 70s and retired from that to become a teacher. He probably forgot then more than what I know now. I am blessed to have known him.
 
Great thread! this is why this is the best damn site on the net!!!

not going to flame at ya Rusty...i know water whetter is a band-aid in most situations;

BUT (lol) i like to take the GTX'er down to work a lot... and on the highway she never got above 210* in bumper to bumper traffic (at cruise it would be 185-190*) and i just didn't feel comfortable with it. so i got the water whetter and now she doesnt go over 200* in traffic.

so band-aid for the GTX? not really IMHO...she was within spec on temp me thinks; im just an **** MoPar guy!!! lmao
 
If you truly want a nice street driving car, one that you can drive every day if you have to, and has some grunt on the track, then keep the cam lobe separation at 112. This will also give you some flexibility with the gears and allow you to run a 3.23 if need be and still have good performance.
 
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